New car / truck - many ????s

[VentureRider]

I've a BRAND NEW 2012 F-150 that has been washed several times never been waxed... I'm giving serious thought to using both Klasse products to protect it.

1) Wash
2) Clay
3) Klasse AIO
4) Klasse Sealant/Glaze

Thoughts & suggestions welcome...

I also own a 2010 Lexus IS 250 that has the Lexus "special coating" (whatever that is)...gets put on yearly. Are the Klasse products compatible?

I also own a 98 Mustang GT. In it's heyday, it was waxed aprpox every two months. Over the last two years, its been neglected. What would be the best way to get it "shiny & new" again? The paint is in very good condition...just hasnt been clayed or waxed in the last two years...

Thanks in advance for any / all suggestions!

[Mike Phillips]

Since this is your first post...


Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:






I've a BRAND NEW 2012 F-150 that has been washed several times never been waxed... I'm giving serious thought to using both Klasse products to protect it.

1) Wash
2) Clay
3) Klasse AIO
4) Klasse Sealant/Glaze

Thoughts & suggestions welcome...




Congratulations on the new truck!


I wrote the below article because it's a good idea for most people and most waxes but I also wrote it with two productgs in mind and one of them is the Klasse Sealant Glaze also called KSG. Take a moment to read it and follow the friendly recommendation...

A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/37279-tip-working-waxes-paint-sealants-coatings-new-you.html)




I also own a 2010 Lexus IS 250 that has the Lexus "special coating" (whatever that is)...gets put on yearly. Are the Klasse products compatible?



The special coating is probably a synthetic paint sealant, if this is the case there's nothing special about it and it will wear off like any car wax or synthetic paint sealant.

I would recommend following the steps I list here for both the Lexus and the Ford....

How To Detail Your Brand New Car by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/54451-how-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html)


Below is the order of steps to do to your brand new car, truck or sports utility vehicle. Note that even a brand new car may need some of the below procedures because car paint becomes contaminated while it's being shipped and while it's being stored.

Also, dealerships are notorious for putting their new cars through their own detail shop to get them ready to sell only to have their in-house detailers instill swirls and scratches at the same time they're supposed to be making the car look beautiful.

It's sad to say, but that's how the new and used car dealerships here in the United States work.

So after getting your brand new car, or your new-to-you used car home, here's what you do.


Wash and dry.
Inspect the paint with your sense of touch and visually in bright, overhead sunlight.
Iron X paint and wheels - Then re-wash to remove the Iron X residues off the paint and wheels.
Clay - If needed. Your inspection will tell you.
Polish - If needed. Your inspection will tell you.
Apply either a Car Wax or a Paint Sealant


Note: You really only need to use one type of protection product. Some people use two types but you don't have to. Instead you could apply two coats of the same product. Protection products include,




Car Waxes
Synthetic Paint Sealants
Paint Coatings




See this article for more information
3-Categories: Waxes, Paint Sealants and Coatings (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/34185-3-categories-waxes-paint-sealants-coatings.html)



How to inspect your car's paint after you have washed and dried it.
Watch the below short videos. In them, I show you how to inspect your car's paint. It is by inspecting your car's paint that you determine what needs to be done.


This is one of my better write-ups with over 100 high resolution pictures showing before, process and after shots. Here's the link to the entire thread.

1954 Ford F-100 - Extreme Makeover - Process and products used (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/42270-1954-ford-f-100-extreme-makeover-process-products-used.html)



Here's what you want to do to any car that you're going to detail
First, wash and dry the car so you remove any loose dirt. This keeps you from rubbing the dirt into the paint when you feel it with your hand or a baggie for above surface bonded contaminants.

It also removes the dirt to get it out of the way so your eyes can SEE if there are any swirls in the paint.

So wash and dry first, then inspect with your sense of touch and visually with your eyes.




How to feel the paint with your hand to check and see if you need to clay the paint

1954 Ford F100 Show Truck Detailing Clay - YouTube




How to inspect the paint using the sun to check for swirls, holograms and scratches

1954 Ford F100 Show Truck Remove Holograms Swirls...



Your results and what to do?


Paints is in good shape
If the paint feels smooth as glass and if you don't see any swirls or scratches, or if swirls and scratches don't bother you then you can keep it simple and,



A: Apply a wax or paint sealant - Skip all other steps after washing and drying and inspecting.

B: Use a pre-wax cleaner and then apply a wax or paint sealant. A pre-wax cleaner, also called a paint cleaner simply ensures the paint surface is squeaky clean and clear and perfectly prepared to accept a wax or paint sealant. If you opt to use a paint coating you'll want to follow the manufactures directions for prepping the paint before applying the coating as directions vary.



Paints is in bad shape
If you discover the paint has above surface bonded contaminants then you need to clay the paint. You have two options,

Option 1: Wash and dry the car and then clay paint.
This is the normal way most people started their detailing project till products like Iron-X were introduced. That is after washing, drying and inspecting, if they felt contaminants on the paint they would move onto the claying step.


Option 2: Wash and dry the car and then use Iron-X to remove any iron particles and then re-wash the car to remove the Iron X residue and dissolved iron particles. Dry the car and then clay the paint.


The benefit this approach offers is,

IF there are any iron particles in your car's paint you will dissolve and remove them chemically with the Iron-X instead of abrading and pulling them out with clay and then potentially instilling swirls and scratches into the paint because now you have iron particles embedded into the clay that you're rubbing all over the paint.


Iron X = Insurance Policy
In my opinion, doing an Iron-X treatment to paint that you've never worked on before is a good idea, it's like an insurance policy. You buy insurance to protect ourself but you hope you never need it.

You use Iron-X JUST IN CASE there's any iron particles in the paint but you actually hope that there's not.

It's better to use Iron-X and NOT see the spray turn red than it is to see the spray turn read. Think about it, if it turns red that means there was iron particles in the paint, that's a bad thing. If it doesn't, it's whew... I got lucky.

Then after choosing and following the steps in one of the above options you move on to the next step, which is usually doing some type of correction work to the paint using a combination of compounds and polishes, or keep it simple and use what are called pre-wax cleaners or paint cleaners.

Both of these steps,


Correcting with compounds and/or polishes

OR (You don't do both, pick one or the other)

Using a Pre-Wax cleaner


Are done after the washing, claying steps and before the sealing step where you will apply your choice of a,


Car Wax
Synthetic Paint Sealant
Paint Coating



Each of the three categories above are different types of products that do the same general thing and that is leave a layer of protection on the paint to protect it and make the paint look good.

You only need to use one product from one of the three categories. You don't have to use products from more than one category although a lot of "Serious Car Enthusiasts" will as an option apply a synthetic paint sealant first for long lasting, durable protection and top this sealant with a coat of wax for aesthetics reasons, that is to make the paint look beautiful.

See this article,
Topping - Definition - How to Top also called Topping (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40089-topping-definition-how-top-also-called-topping.html)



Maintaining your car
After all of the above is done, you can then maintain your car's finish using a combination of spray detailers and spray waxes or spray sealants.

A spray detailer is for removing,


Light dust
Fingerprints
Smudges
Clay Lube (when claying)


A spray wax or a spray sealant is typically a faster, shortcut way of restoring that just waxed look without having to actually get out a traditional liquid or paste type product. Instead you mist on the spray wax or spray sealant, spread it around and wipe it off in the same way you would use a spray detailers.

People get confused as to what the difference is between a spray detailer and a spray wax so here's the difference,

A spray detailer is for cleaning your car, getting dust of it without scratching the paint. A spray on wax or spray-on sealant is for adding more protection to paint that is ALREADY CLEAN, for example after you wash the car or AFTER YOU USE A SPRAY DETAILER.

Simple really, but for some reason a lot of people get confused over spray detailers and spray waxes.


I certainly don't want to scare anyone or make washing and waxing your car any more complicated than it has to be, I'm just trying to lay out ALL the various factors to consider if the car in question is important to you as well as your time and money/investment.

Here's how the 1954 Ford came out after doing all the necessary steps and then applying a coating of Pinnacle Signature Series II



Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax (http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford58.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford50.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford59.jpg
1954 Ford F-100 - Modeled by Janna (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/42302-1954-ford-f-100-modeled-janna.html)


:)

[Mike Phillips]

I also own a 98 Mustang GT. In it's heyday, it was waxed aprpox every two months. Over the last two years, its been neglected.

What would be the best way to get it "shiny & new" again? The paint is in very good condition...just hasnt been clayed or waxed in the last two years...

Thanks in advance for any / all suggestions!




Same advice as above...

1. Wash and dry

2. Inspect both visually and with your sense of touch

3. If the paint needs to be clayed, clay it or use a speedy prep towel or a Nanoskin Autoscrub pad.

4. Then machine polish the paint to perfection and then seal with your favorite wax, paint sealant or paint coating.


The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27967-baggie-test-how-inspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)

3-Categories: Waxes, Paint Sealants and Coatings (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/34185-3-categories-waxes-paint-sealants-coatings.html)



:xyxthumbs:

[BobbyG]

1st - :welcome: To Autogeek Online!! :props:
2nd - Congratulations and the best of luck with your new truck!!

Truck

For the truck I think your plan is a sound one. Klasse makes some nice products and go well together, in fact, they were designed to be used together..

Klasse All-in-One doesn't contain abrasives so it there are minor swirls in the paint it won't remove them. I picked up a tip here and instead of applying Klasse High gloss Paint Sealant with a foam pad I know spray it on lightly and buff in immediately with a microfiber towel...it works great!!

There are 1-step products on the market that will remove swirls and like defects.


Duragloss 501
Optimum GPS
Pinnacle XMT 360
Meguiar's D151

Now apply your sealant

I have no experience with Lexus, sorry...

Mustang

This is a high level of how I would approach this Mustang and please keep in mind I'm going by your description and nothing more...

First decontaminate the entire finish.


Wash
Clay
Rinse
Carpro IronX
Inspect the finish for type and level of defects.

Assuming you're using a dual action polisher...I hope!


Wolfgang Swirl Remover Combo
Seal
Wax

[VentureRider]

Same advice as above...

4. Then machine polish the paint to perfection and then seal with your favorite wax, paint sealant or paint coating.

:xyxthumbs:

Relative to the '98 Mustang....

Is the Klasse AIO an adequate machine polish...or should I consider another type of cleaner / polish BEFORE using the Klasse products?

[Mike Phillips]

Here's a step-by-step guide for buffing out a 2008 Lexus IS 250


Step-by-Step How-To use the Porter Cable 7424XP (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/19994-2008-lexus-250-pinnacle-detail.html)
(Very in-depth how-to guide that covers every topic related to using a DA Polisher like the PC, Meguiar's or Griot's tools)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/723/detail-193.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/723/detail-194.jpg


:xyxthumbs: