Do I have to use a LSP after claying?

[chalkupanother1]

I just did a full paint correction on my 2007 Charger this summer. Of course, it still looks great. I used BFWD as a sealant, and just did another coat of BF wax after the last wash.

I love the way the car looks/feels after claying. My question is...if I want to clay, do I have to strip the wax and sealant off first, then clay, then reapply sealant? Or, can I just simply do a claying after a wash without having to do another round of LSP?

Thanks!!

[Ryry11]

Claying removes LSP. I wouldn't clay if I were you. If you absolutely must clay then I'd reapply your LSP for sure

[yakky]

Clay is an abrasive, it will remove your LSP. Blackfire takes about 20 minutes to do a whole car, shouldn't even be an issue.

[mwoolfso]

I just did a full paint correction on my 2007 Charger this summer. Of course, it still looks great. I used BFWD as a sealant, and just did another coat of BF wax after the last wash.

I love the way the car looks/feels after claying. My question is...if I want to clay, do I have to strip the wax and sealant off first, then clay, then reapply sealant? Or, can I just simply do a claying after a wash without having to do another round of LSP?

Thanks!!

As a general rule you should only clay when you are know the paint needs it (baggie test after a wash), and you will be re-applying an LSP. Usually, 2x per year unless you have a unique circumstance.

[Audi X2]

Also consider that depending on the paint hardness and the clay interaction with it the finish may show some marring. This will require polishing and that of course means more work than just applying the LSP.

[BobbyG]

I love the way the car looks/feels after claying. My question is...if I want to clay, do I have to strip the wax and sealant off first, then clay, then reapply sealant? Or, can I just simply do a claying after a wash without having to do another round of LSP?

Thanks!!

Claying is a procedure that removes embedded particles from the paint. Smooth is how the finish should feel once claying is completed. Polish or a paint cleaner would be the next logical step then your sealant and or wax.

Generally, you shouldn't just want to clay unless there's a reason to. If you do clay then you'll probably want to prep the entire surface prior to adding that layer of protection.

[chalkupanother1]

The Charger is my DD into my work (a steel mill in NW Indiana). Within a month, my car doesn't pass the baggie test. I keep it spotless thru the week though, washing it a couple times a week.

I like keeping any gunk off by claying, but just didn't want to go thru the whole detailing process.

I guess I will continue using CG Citrus Wash to remove waxes, then clay. But it really doesn't make sense to use the BFWD sealant, which last 6 months, if I remove it in a month to clay. I might as well just go with a wax on this car, which would last the month anyway, unless anyone else has a good suggestion. Thanks!

[yakky]

or opticoat and not worry about monthly claying....

[stibuki]

Air Bourne contaminates around the mill must be brutal! Not sure whatever coating you use as an LSP will do the trick. I would give a semi-permanent coating a shot (might get improved resistance to contaminate bonding) or at least switch out the clay for a speedy prep towel or nanoskin pad. At the very least you will be cutting your clay time significantly.

[Kevin Cullen]

Try using iron x before you clay. Where you work will give a lot of iron particles into the air.

[AutowerxDetailing]

Try using iron x before you clay. Where you work will give a lot of iron particles into the air.

I agree. You could also try the Iron-X Snow Soap for your washes to provide adequate iron removal as your ongoing maintenance process. This should really cut back on the need to constantly clay your vehicle even though it is exposed to heavy iron particulate fall out at your work.