Buff & Shine Pads - Mothers Professional Product Line

[Mfoehrkolb]

I just picked up a completely new set up for after i respray customers panels and or overalls. I have 2 pads of each as of now, i didn't want to buy more because never using this set up before.

I will be using a 5.5" rotary for the compounding stages, and MAYBE the first pad of machine glaze. Then i will be moving to my 5.5" DA to finish off the machine glaze/machine polish/hand glaze steps.

I picked up the 5.5" buff and shine pads, and mothers professional line. The diagram's below are what i planned on following, just not sure what one to choose #1,#2, or #3. Or if anyone else would suggest a different combination of product/pad order for myself. If not a different combination, which from the bottom would you follow.


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/buffpadcombo.png/http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f294/Mfoehrkolb21/BuffPadCombo_zps684fda65.png


(Aggressive to Least)
Heavy duty compound>Rubbing compound>Machine glaze>Foam pad polish>Hand glaze (only one that contains fillers and is put on with no cut pad)

This is a link to the pads: (autogeek doesn't carry them :( )
flat foam pads, flat foam buffing pads, car polishing foam flat pads, DA foam 5.5" pads, flex foam pads, pc foam pads, megs g110 flat foam pads, 5.5" detailing foam pads (http://www.buffandshine.com/flat-foam-pads-p-323-l-en.html)

This is a link to the mothers professional line:
Mothers Professional Refinishing System, Mothers polishes, Mothers compounds, professional polishes, reconditioning system (http://www.autogeek.net/mothers-professional-refinishing-system.html)

[Setec Astronomy]

I realize you're new here, but why on earth would you cut and polish a new paint job and then finish with a glaze you admit has fillers in it? If you are working with new paint do a job worthy of this forum and finish the paint out so it doesn't need to be filled, it's new for crying out loud.

If you wanted to glaze the rest of the car that you don't know how thick the paint is or how many times it's been brutalized, fine, but you ought to be able to get the paint you just sprayed to a condition that doesn't require fillers, IMO.

[ihaveacamaro]

Let's make this easy for you. If this is a new car, buy 3 x orange flat pads and 3 x white flat pads. Get optimum hyper compound and optimum hyper polish. Compound with orange, polish with white. Dampen mf cloth and wipe it over the car. Finish with Opticoat 2.0. Enjoy the fruits of your labor for the rest of the car's life (or at least 3 to 5 years).

[Rsurfer]

[QUOTE=Setec Astronomy;745928]I realize you're new here, but why on earth would you cut and polish a new paint job and then finish with a glaze you admit has fillers in it?

Because that's what body shops do.Im the MAN

[Mfoehrkolb]

I realize you're new here, but why on earth would you cut and polish a new paint job and then finish with a glaze you admit has fillers in it? If you are working with new paint do a job worthy of this forum and finish the paint out so it doesn't need to be filled, it's new for crying out loud.

If you wanted to glaze the rest of the car that you don't know how thick the paint is or how many times it's been brutalized, fine, but you ought to be able to get the paint you just sprayed to a condition that doesn't require fillers, IMO.

--- I kinda have to cut and polish the new clear, because i'll be wetsanding the entire car after i lay down the bc/cc. I never used these products before, is why im asking the question of pad to product combo. I purchased the hand glaze, simply to have the "complete" mothers professional line. From my understanding, this hand glaze won't hurt fresh clear coat like a sealer/wax would. So under that logic, can't really hurt to apply the hand glaze for whatever minor/small part i might have not noticed under the light when polishing. Granted i'm very meticulous with my work, and i am not willing to put less then sub par work out there. Their cars are my business cards.

When i say i will be wetsanding, it will be very little.

Clear coat right from the gun to the car (engine bay strut tower)
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/557487_10151019245512681_1964520188_n.jpg


Let's make this easy for you. If this is a new car, buy 3 x orange flat pads and 3 x white flat pads. Get optimum hyper compound and optimum hyper polish. Compound with orange, polish with white. Dampen mf cloth and wipe it over the car. Finish with Opticoat 2.0. Enjoy the fruits of your labor for the rest of the car's life (or at least 3 to 5 years).

--- I am not buying different product as of now, i just literally spent 700$ with my new pads, buffers, mothers product's, and etc etc. No offense or anything, thanks for your advice. Just yeah, don't feel like making returns. I haven't even received my stuff in the mail yet :D



[QUOTE=Setec Astronomy;745928]I realize you're new here, but why on earth would you cut and polish a new paint job and then finish with a glaze you admit has fillers in it?

Because that's what body shops do.

--- Please don't categorize my work with crap 25 cars a day shops that takes no pride in their work and just pump the cars out. My clients are 90% word of mouth, and i feel as if my honest/quality work is what keeps me having returning and new customers.

[6supersport7]

It looks like what you have will work. If you are wet sanding I believe I would first get the sanding marks out with wool and compound and then move to the foam. I'm sure the foam will work but will take longer. What grit are you finishing out to with your sanding?

[Mfoehrkolb]

It looks like what you have will work. If you are wet sanding I believe I would first get the sanding marks out with wool and compound and then move to the foam. I'm sure the foam will work but will take longer. What grit are you finishing out to with your sanding?

--- Start off with either 1,500 or 2,000 depending on if there are any defects, end at 3,000.

From what i read/heard, the orange pads from buff and shine are way too aggressive as it is. I spoke to their product tech recently on the phone and he suggested the yellow compound pad, orange only if i have to heavy sand it at like 1,000/1,200 grit.

Which my clear never has a bad enough defect for something extreme enough as 1-1.2k paper. On top of that, i didn't even bother buying a wool pad!

[Ron Atchison]

Hers a review I did on Mothers Compound and finished off with Foam Pad Polish. I used LC white pads on the rotary but they are the same as a BS white. The swirls and marring were much worse than what your going to have with 3000 grit paper. I think you'll find that your not going to need all four steps you have outlined. The compound finishes off pretty nice on it's own.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/48309-mothers-professional-line-compound.html

[Mfoehrkolb]

Hers a review I did on Mothers Compound and finished off with Foam Pad Polish. I used LC white pads on the rotary but they are the same as a BS white. The swirls and marring were much worse than what your going to have with 3000 grit paper. I think you'll find that your not going to need all four steps you have outlined. The compound finishes off pretty nice on it's own.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/48309-mothers-professional-line-compound.html

--- Thanks for the link. Seems to work pretty well. I will probably end up going with chart 3 though. I know you say i don't need the other steps, but... i already purchased the pads and all the products. No going back now.

Do you happen to have any sunlight pictures of the truck after the polishing steps?
Did you have any halos or swirling after the polishing step?

About the hand glaze, i figured i could use it because i won't be able to apply any waxes, sealers of any sort, and it would help in the overall look... even if the paint is new and practically perfect.

[Mfoehrkolb]

Received my GG6 today in the mail... Oh my that thing is heavier than anticipated. Not complaining, it feels solid... just wasn't expecting such weight when looking at it in the box.

[Ron Atchison]

--- Thanks for the link. Seems to work pretty well. I will probably end up going with chart 3 though. I know you say i don't need the other steps, but... i already purchased the pads and all the products. No going back now.

It's not like your going to hurt anything by using them and they may refine it just that little bit that makes the difference.

Do you happen to have any sunlight pictures of the truck after the polishing steps?
Did you have any halos or swirling after the polishing step?

No, not after just the polishing step. The finished pictures were the next morning, the LSP is Mothers Synthetic wax which has no correcting ability so the finish your seeing is how the polished finished off.

About the hand glaze, i figured i could use it because i won't be able to apply any waxes, sealers of any sort, and it would help in the overall look... even if the paint is new and practically perfect.

From the Mothers website

Mothers® Professional Hand Glaze is recommended for added shine and protection and may be used after Mothers® Professional Foam Pad Polish to achieve unparalleled depth and clarity

Sounds like it does just what your looking for it to do.

[Mfoehrkolb]

From the Mothers website

Mothers® Professional Hand Glaze is recommended for added shine and protection and may be used after Mothers® Professional Foam Pad Polish to achieve unparalleled depth and clarity

Sounds like it does just what your looking for it to do.

--- okay thanks. i haven't decided on what to use for a wax/sealer combo as of yet. I do detail my sister's and parent's cars, so i could use it on their vehicles.