Advice on deep key scratch repair

[EV044]

Since a few months I am the proud owner of the 44th (out of the first 100) mass-produced Electric Vehicle (EV) to hit the roads here. It is a Renault Fluence ZE (Zero Emission), painted light metallic blue:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Renault_Fluence_2.JPG

When the car was approx. one month old, someone scratched three panels on the side of my new car. Here are photos of these three scratches:


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/DSC_2897.JPG
front

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/DSC_2896.JPG
middle

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/DSC_2898.JPG
back


According to the service center, repairing these scratches would require completely repainting these panels at a total cost of around $2,000.

As I am relatively handy and not afraid to take on something new, I have decided to try and fix one scratch myself and see how it works out. After all, I can always go back to the service center and have them repaint the panel.

I have already read most threads relating to deep scratch repair here. I know what sort of repair I can expect to accomplish. I must say there is an enormous amount of information available on this forum and the quality of the information is simply amazing!

In this thread I will summarize what I have learned from the various threads I read and movies I watched, and am asking for your feedback, advice, etc.

My current thoughts are as follows:
Order the following products:
1. Flex XC 3401 VRG Dual Action buffer
2. Additional backing plates
3. Car detergent
4. Wool and foam pads
5. Microfiber cloths
6. Isopropyl alcohol as solvent
7. Clay
8. Touch up paint
9. Sanding paper: 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000
10. Sanding paper lube: ONR QD
11. Compound: M105 or 3M Perfect-It 3000 Rubbing Compound 16 oz. – 39060 for fresh paint and 3M Perfect-It 3000 Extra Cut Rubbing Compound 32 oz. – 06060 for cured paints (however is 3M only suitable for rotary buffers?)
12. Swirl Remover: 3M Perfect-It 3000 Machine Polish Swirl Mark Remover 16 oz. - 39061
13. Polish: M205 or 3M Perfect-It 3000 Ultrafine Machine Polish 16 oz. – 39062 (however is 3M only suitable for rotary buffers?)
14. Glaze: 3M Perfect-It 3000 Final Glaze 32 oz
15. Sealant: Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant (or perhaps 3M Perfect-It Show Car Liquid Wax 16 oz. – 39026)
16. Wax: Pinnacle Souverän Carnauba Wax

You will notice I am attempting to use one manufacturer's system. I would prefer 3M but have noticed that some of these products seem to be meant for use with a rotary buffer only.

You will also notice I am not only trying to fix the scratches but also want to protect the paint on my new car as best as I can.

These are the steps I am thinking of following with the car parked indoors:
1. Wash with car detergent
2. Dry
3. Clay
4. Apply touch up paint with toothpick or similar, let dry for 12 hours, continue to apply layers until scratch has been filled
5. Tape off area of scratch
6. Wet sand with 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000 using lube until touch up paint is level with original paint
7. Wash to get rid of sanding residue and wait until completely dry
8. Compound on wool pad
9. Remove residue with microfiber cloth
10. Wash with isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
11. Inspect in direct sunlight
12. Compound on foam pad
13. Remove residue with microfiber cloth
14. Wash with IPA
15. Inspect in direct sunlight
16. Swirl Remove on foam pad
17. Remove residue with microfiber cloth
18. Wash with IPA
19. Inspect in direct sunlight
20. Polish on foam pad
21. Remove residue with microfiber cloth
22. Wash with IPA
23. Inspect in direct sunlight
24. Apply sealant
25. Apply wax

Specific questions:
1. Is the Flex XC 3401 VRG Dual Action buffer suitable for this sort of work or can this only be done using a rotary buffer? As a complete novice I would much prefer not to have to master a rotary buffer at this time!
2. Are the above 3M products only suitable on a rotary buffer or can they be used successfully on the Flex DA?
3. Since the scratches are small, I would like to use small pads to work on them. What are the smallest size pads which can be mounted on the Flex DA given that it will only take specific backing plates manufactured specifically for this device?
4. Any recommendations regarding which specific wool and foam pads to use?
5. With what step from the above list should I start working on the entire car to keep the entire car uniform looking (i.e. should I compound the entire car (I think not) or polish the whole car)?
6. Anything you think I may have overlooked, or any other advice?

Needless to say I will make sure to take pictures and perhaps a video of the entire process.

I would appreciate any and all comments, advice, remarks, etc.

Thank you very much in advance!

Ariel

[rider9195]

I would read through this thread that forum member Richy wrote. Very helpful for what you want to achieve.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/43535-key-repair-step-step-procedure.html

[dad07]

I would read through this thread that forum member Richy wrote. Very helpful for what you want to achieve.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/43535-key-repair-step-step-procedure.html

:iagree:this will lead in the RIGHT direction.

[tdrake2406]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n9AZFYfH-E]Minor Scratch Removal on a Lamborghini Murcielago - YouTube[/video]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrNJ9ZAK-_M]Scratch Removal with Meguiar's Polishes, HD & Lake Country Pads - YouTube[/video]

[oldmodman]

Is the car insured against vandalism?

If yes have a paint shop do the repaint. If you try to do the repair yourself and it doesn't turn out the way you want it you might not get it fixed under your insurance.

If the scratch is down below the clearcoat then you will just be degrading all the rest of the paint by removing even more clear.

And if you do go the repaint method make sure that the shop sands all the paint to below the scratch. Otherwise the filler will shrink over time and you will see the scratches through the new paint.

[Waxy]

Have the damage repaired(painted)by a professional.

[tuscarora dave]

I agree that if the damage is covered under an insurance policy to allow the body shop do the repair and repaint these sections.

If you are dead set on trying this repair yourself first, I'd recommend first washing then claying the car. After claying the car, you should rub that scratched area out by hand (wrap a cotton terry towel around your finger, apply some M-105 to the towel and vigorously rub in the direction of the scratch) to see how much of the damage is topical or easily removable. After doing this, then you can see exactly what you are working with and what exactly the plan of attack should be.

I personally think that you'd be better off using a Meguiar's G110V2 or Porter Cable style DA polisher with some 3 inch pads to work on a repair like that. That machine will pretty much get you through the project within a reasonable budget.

Before spending a ton of money on the list that you've outlined just work that scratch as I have explained and go from there.

As far as 3M products being used with a rotary buffer.

The 3M products that you mention (to my knowledge) contain diminishing abrasives (DAT abrasives) and need to be fully broken down to achieve "as intended" results. The mechanical action between the spinning pad on a rotary and the paint works much more efficiently (than working with a DA polisher) at breaking down these abrasives. As such, you typically end up with more hazy results when working these compounds with a DA because you're not fully breaking the abrasives down as they were designed to be broken down.

Confused yet?

Reading about how diminishing abrasives break down "in theory" , without having actually experienced how they work on the paint in the garage, can leave the reader with a somewhat cloudy mental image of what they are actually reading. I would really recommend leaving the 3M line for rotary use and go with Meguiars M-105 and M-205, or another non diminishing (SMAT) abrasive product, as it cuts the whole "breaking down of the abrasives" dilemma out of the equation.

With (SMAT) products, you simply work the product against the paint then check your results. Have your desired cut? If so then move on to the polish, If not...Compound a little more before moving on to polish. It's pretty straight forward with SMAT abrasives.

Hope this helps keep things simple.

First things first, find out exactly what you need to do before compiling a list of stuff to do it with.

[EV044]

Thanks to all those who posted so far for your helpful replies and advice.

With regard to the (very good) advice to have the damage repaired by a professional: as I wrote in the first post, the professional wanted to completely paint over the 3 panels. Besides the extremely high cost of this repair, I also think that even the best professional job is not going to be like the production paint. Since the car is only 4 months old, that seems like a real shame. If possible I'd rather avoid that.
I also looked into professional detailing shops here: it seems these are almost non-existent. In addition, I am one of those people who is seldom happy with the results of hiring a "professional". I find I can usually do a better job myself, except when I find a real professional craftsman. Unfortunately these seem to be almost extinct...


Is the car insured against vandalism?

Yes, the car is insured against vandalism but the deductible is almost as much as the paint shop quote. So that doesn't help.



After claying the car, you should rub that scratched area out by hand (wrap a cotton terry towel around your finger, apply some M-105 to the towel and vigorously rub in the direction of the scratch) to see how much of the damage is topical or easily removable. After doing this, then you can see exactly what you are working with and what exactly the plan of attack should be.

As I don't have any materials to work with, and international shipping is pretty expensive, I was hoping to be able to compile one order of everything I am likely to need. If I follow your suggestion I will need to order M-105 first and then make another order later.



I personally think that you'd be better off using a Meguiar's G110V2 or Porter Cable style DA polisher with some 3 inch pads to work on a repair like that. That machine will pretty much get you through the project within a reasonable budget.

I also thought using 3 inch pads would be ideal. However, I read in multiple places that the Meguiar's G110V2 or Porter Cable DA polishers do not have sufficient correcting power to handle jobs like this one. This is why I thought to go with the Flex even though it seems the smallest pads that can be used with the Flex (and the special replacement backing plates) is 4 1/2 inch (if I can get that size pad). If you think that Meguiar's G110V2 or Porter Cable DA polishers have sufficient power to tackle this job then I am willing to reconsider; however, it seems to go against what I read elsewhere.



Before spending a ton of money on the list that you've outlined just work that scratch as I have explained and go from there.

Even though it is a lot of money, it is still less than half of what the paint shop wanted, so in my mind it is worth it. Plus I get to keep it so I can use it again later.



As far as 3M products being used with a rotary buffer.

The 3M products that you mention (to my knowledge) contain diminishing abrasives (DAT abrasives) and need to be fully broken down to achieve "as intended" results. The mechanical action between the spinning pad on a rotary and the paint works much more efficiently (than working with a DA polisher) at breaking down these abrasives. As such, you typically end up with more hazy results when working these compounds with a DA because you're not fully breaking the abrasives down as they were designed to be broken down.

Confused yet?

Reading about how diminishing abrasives break down "in theory" , without having actually experienced how they work on the paint in the garage, can leave the reader with a somewhat cloudy mental image of what they are actually reading. I would really recommend leaving the 3M line for rotary use and go with Meguiars M-105 and M-205, or another non diminishing (SMAT) abrasive product, as it cuts the whole "breaking down of the abrasives" dilemma out of the equation.

With (SMAT) products, you simply work the product against the paint then check your results. Have your desired cut? If so then move on to the polish, If not...Compound a little more before moving on to polish. It's pretty straight forward with SMAT abrasives.

Thanks for this explanation; this is very helpful. The main reason I wanted to use 3M is that I read everywhere that the 3M products are top of the line professional plus they wipe off easily. Elsewhere I read that while M-105 and M-205 are great products, it is more difficult to wipe them off. But based on your explanation I now think I should order Meguiar's line of products instead of 3M's.

Again, thanks everybody and keep those comments coming! I want to discuss and think this through quite well before I make a commitment.

Thanks,

Ariel