Ipa

[galaxy]

For an IPA wipedown after a polish, or just whenever, do you guys dillute? Do you use 70% straight out of the bottle? Thanks for any tips.

[pho_shizzle]

You only need 5-10% ipa dilution because new age clear coats are very "alcohol-friendly".

[AC in OC]

Here you go. More than enough info to answer your question, but that's how Mike rolls.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31183-how-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html

[Mike Phillips]

Here you go. More than enough info to answer your question, but that's how Mike rolls.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31183-how-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html


:laughing:


From post #7 in the above thread,





How to Mix a 20% dilution of IPA to Water
Some have commented that after reading the article they have decided that at least for their needs, using 91% straight IPA is too strong as well as 70% and 50% but wanted a ratio stronger than the approximate 10% ratio recommended by my chemists and experts in the paint care products and detailing industry.

So if you want to create an approximate 20% dilution of IPA to water, you can add 7 ounces of 91% IPA to a 32 ounce bottle and then fill the rest of the bottle with clean water or distilled water.



Just to note, I didn't even want to write this article and a year before I did I asked for someone else to write it and after a YEAR no one took it upon themselves to do the homework and put their money where there mouth is...

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31183-how-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html)


Back then there were a number of forum members who were always getting real emotional about the topic of stripping the paint before applying a wax only they were telling people to use IPA straight out of the bottle with no regard to safety for the paint or even addressing the fact that there are different strengths of IPA on the market.

These are one-liner people, the people that when someone asks you a question they will all their wisdom post a one sentence answer. So I wrote it since none of these other people could do it.

And like all my articles, I carefully chose all the words specifically used to craft the information and instructions and its' still as accurate today as it was when I wrote it.


Including these little tidbits...


[quote=Mike Phillips]

WARNING
Do not chemically strip FRESH PAINT. Fresh paint has not fully cross-linked, dried and hardened. Introducing any type of solvent to the surface and allowing it to dwell could have a negative effect on the paint.


Note: The below article is NOT an official recommendation by Mike Phillips or Autogeek. It is an attempt to clear up any confusion on the topic of chemically stripping paint with the common products used for this procedure as discussed on detailing discussion forums. If you choose to chemically strip your car's paint, or your customer's car paint, all the risk is yours. Anytime you use a new product or procedure, it's a great idea to first test in an inconspicuous area and check the results before moving forward.







Forum Member Recommendations
Not only have I made the mistake of using IPA straight out of the bottle, I've seen well intentioned forum members on multiple, multiple forums recommend this same practice. I'll step out on a limb here and propose that like me, a lot of forum members are not chemist and have not performed any in-depth research into this topic and their recommendation is just their personal opinion or they are parroting something they read posted by some other forum member that has also likely not performed any in-depth research into this topic.

I don't want to ruffle any feathers, step on any toes or tell anyone they're wrong, so I'm just going to let the information I've shared in this article stand on its own. You, as the reader, can follow the recommendations I've presented or use Isopropyl Alcohol straight out of the bottle. It's your car, (or your customer's car), so do your own research, come to your own conclusion and then do as you will.




And this towards the end of the article,




Again, I wrote this article because it's a reoccurring topic on detailing discussion forums and I couldn't find any real substantial article or information on the topic or the process. I've done my best to make sure the information presented is correct to my knowledge.




And of course the kissing cousin to the IPA article,


Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31186-miscible-immiscible-wax-paint-sealant-bonding.html)


Ever since I wrote and posted this article all the emotional guys have had the wind taking out of their sail....


:laughing:

[SON1C]

I mix 70% 1:1 great results
^ one liner lol
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/53796-son1c-blue-paint-correction-40-hours-invested-enjoy.html

[WickedLou9]

We aren't doing lab testing here. I don't honestly think it matters whether the mix is exactly 20%. If it's 15% or 30%, probably makes no difference. I use the Italian cooking method. Fill a spray bottle roughly 1/4 of the way with a 70% IPA solution, the rest with pure water. Works fine.

[pho_shizzle]

We aren't doing lab testing here. I don't honestly think it matters whether the mix is exactly 20%. If it's 15% or 30%, probably makes no difference. I use the Italian cooking method. Fill a spray bottle roughly 1/4 of the way with a 70% IPA solution, the rest with pure water. Works fine.


It might not make a difference in how approximately it is mixed by the percentage within 5% or what ever; but the time that it spends lingering on the surface you are working on will greatly matter. With a higher ratio mixture, you have less time for it to sit and wait.

[Mike Phillips]

We aren't doing lab testing here.




:laughing:


I agree, like I posted already, I didn't even want to do the research and then write the article but grown men were as I like to say, getting emotional over the topic on this forum and others and there was zero information on the practice. Zero.

Also, supposedly smart detailers were telling people to use IPA straight out of the bottle without even taking into consideration someone could have 91% dang near full strength IPA being wiped over polished paint. I've seen IPA wrinkle paint and that can be a difficult defect to undo without making things worse.

All that silliness went away after I wrote and posted the article and if you read enough of my posts you'll find multiple times where I've written that washing and waxing your car doesn't need to be and shouldn't be rocket science.


Also, see what I wrote about wiping perfectly polished paint with IPA in this article,


Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/43684-hologram-free-rotary-buffer.html)


Now you can see some light marring, but that's because IPA isn't a very good lubricant, in fact it's a horrible lubricant. I think of all the people that have been told by others to wipe their car down with IPA before going to the next step and it's pretty easy to understand that when they did this they likely marred their car's paint and this is called working backwards. It's also likely that if the people taking this advice were working on light to medium colored cars they never saw the marring.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1332/HologramFree06.jpg











:)

[galaxy]

Just for FYI if it bears on the conversation, I was looking into the IPA wipedown in an effort to prepare the surface for LSP work and not necessairly killing myself on inspecting the final product.

If you go from polishing (say M205) and the next product has a cleaner in it, would a wipedown even be necessary for that purpose?

[Kinalyx]

I wait to use IPA until after all polishing is done, or to check if the first step has actually removed all of the defects.

On a side note, CEE DOG actually had a post where he had a comparison between IPA and CarPro Eraser and did a 50/50 with the 2 and the same wax/sealant over top of them, or maybe it was a coating. Either way, the side he used Eraser on was definitely lasting longer and working better. Just some food for thought.

shawn

[Mike Phillips]

If you go from polishing (say M205) and the next product has a cleaner in it, would a wipedown even be necessary for that purpose?



Whether the "cleaner" product is a paint cleaner, pre-wax cleaner, or cleaner/wax, all of these will still have some type of lubricating oil to lubricate both application and wipe-off. That's one of the things some type of lubricant does is lubricates the surface so you can make it LOOK good.

Somehow the look good part of working on paint sometimes gets lost in the rocket science part.






On a side note, CEE DOG actually had a post where he had a comparison between IPA and CarPro Eraser and did a 50/50 with the 2 and the same wax/sealant over top of them, or maybe it was a coating. Either way, the side he used Eraser on was definitely lasting longer and working better. Just some food for thought.

shawn


Just to point out to, that when I wrote the IPA article Eraser didn't exist, or at least it didn't exist at Autogeek. I listed what existed in the article.


Keep in mind, the only time a person MUST chemically strip is if the manufacture of the LSP you're going to use states it's necessary. Besides that it's personal preference.


:dunno: