Opti-coat problems...

[AjNavo61490]

Hey guys, I am having a little trouble with OC 2.0. I applied it to my client's subary after I polished it. I wiped down with Eraser Spray paint cleaner before applying the OC. I put 5-6 drops per panel and spread it along the paint until it went clear. I did about 3-4 panels until I came back to wipe down the starting panel to knock off any high spots. I let it cure for 24 hrs and it looked/beaded like a champ... However, 3 months later, he called me saying the paint isn't shining or beading like it used to when he picked it up. He says the paint looks faded and the paint doesn't bead in most places. Anyone know what is going on with this paint/OC application?

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[IID]

I never heard of the paint going "Dull" after application of OC,and I did over 15 vehicles with OC/OC2.0/OG/OG2.0.

Can you get a picture of your customers vehicle,with this current condition you speak of?

[DaveT435]

Hey guys, I am having a little trouble with OC 2.0. I applied it to my client's subary after I polished it. I wiped down with Eraser Spray paint cleaner before applying the OC. I put 5-6 drops per panel and spread it along the paint until it went clear. I did about 3-4 panels until I came back to wipe down the starting panel to knock off any high spots. I let it cure for 24 hrs and it looked/beaded like a champ... However, 3 months later, he called me saying the paint isn't shining or beading like it used to when he picked it up. He says the paint looks faded and the paint doesn't bead in most places. Anyone know what is going on with this paint/OC application?

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The only thing I heard like this it ended up being buildup on top of the opti-coat...once that was removed it was fine...

[swanicyouth]

Hey guys, I am having a little trouble with OC 2.0. I applied it to my client's subary after I polished it. I wiped down with Eraser Spray paint cleaner before applying the OC. I put 5-6 drops per panel and spread it along the paint until it went clear. I did about 3-4 panels until I came back to wipe down the starting panel to knock off any high spots. I let it cure for 24 hrs and it looked/beaded like a champ... However, 3 months later, he called me saying the paint isn't shining or beading like it used to when he picked it up. He says the paint looks faded and the paint doesn't bead in most places. Anyone know what is going on with this paint/OC application?

Feed back pleaseFeed back please

I had the same thing happen to me, minus the dull paint. At first OC beaded well, within 6 months it was gone. I believe Optimum says if the syringe isn't contaminated and the product is in a liquid form the product is good. So, theoretically we can rule out the OC was bad.

In my similar situation I came up with the following possibilities:

1. OC was put on to thin, or wiped or "knocked down" too much and wore off. As, I also applied using "drops". This is where I think mine went bad. As, I used about 8mls to coat a large SUV. I'm thinking it was spread too thin.

2. Panel was still contaminated and product didn't adhere correctly and wore off. I polished prior to OC and did many / thorough IPA wipe downs. While many others will say this is the likely reason, in my case I can't see it.

3. OC is still on the paint and it has been contaminated with something. Some have reported claying brings back beading to OC. However, it seems unlikely a car would get so contaminated in a few months that the beading would be gone. Especially since less dirt or contaminate is supposed to stick to OC. Or, possibly the car just needs a good washing and the owner is unaware how to do that properly.

4. The other possibility in your case is that someone may have monkeyed around with the paint. But if the guy paid you hard earned money to coat his vehicle he probably wouldn't let someone else mess with it.

[Chris Thomas]

Hi AJ, long time no see. It's one of two things:

1. The surface had something left on it that prevented the Opti Coat from bonding to the paint. When this happens durability is reduced to the life of the inhibiting agent. This is unlikely from the prep you mentioned...but there are some polishes that can prove difficult to fully remove their oils and fillers. Also, with any wipe-down type prep product you need to use multiple clean towels to ensure residue is not redeposited and sometimes more than one wipe-down is needed.

2. The client has neglected the finish or only used touch less washes for an extended period. If this is the case, the finish is easily restored with a decon wash and maybe a mild clay.

I would advise scheduling him for an exterior cleaning and see first hand what you're dealing with. Use a paint safe degreaser, like Power Clean or Dawn followed by regular shampoo, then test a spot with a mild clay bar and see if the gloss and beading are restored. Anything on the surface can change the beading, so good wash techniques are still important with coatings...the difference is that bonded contaminants are greatly reduced and the coating isn't permeated by the contaminants that would etch into uncoated paint.

[Chris Thomas]

...minus the dull paint...

This makes me think the car is just not being washed well. Road films and chemicals are never fully removed with touch less washes and automatic washes use oils in the rinse water to promote beading that allows the majority of the water to be blown off...but, leaves residue that may attract more debris than a clean surface would.


3. OC is still on the paint and it has been contaminated with something. Some have reported claying brings back beading to OC. However, it seems unlikely a car would get so contaminated in a few months that the beading would be gone. Especially since less dirt or contaminate is supposed to stick to OC. Or, possibly the car just needs a good washing and the owner is unaware how to do that properly.

Right! Lots of car wash products can actually make a car get dirtier faster. All of the polishes, conditioners, and drying agents used at automatic washes are used within the wet condition of the bay/tunnel and therefore must contain oil, silicone, and/or solvents that won't fully rinse, can build up, and will certainty attract dirt that will change beading characteristics and reduce gloss on any finish. Even if you ask how the client how he has maintained the finish...it will be best to thoroughly wash and inspect it for yourself. I think many times we speak so highly of the coatings that client may conclude they can cut corners on maintenance. That certainly may not be the case, but its where u would start.

[Hoytman]

...it will be best to thoroughly wash and inspect it for yourself.


I agree.

You might even explain to the person what you want to do (wash it) and why, then educate him on how to properly conduct the wash and why it's important to wash it a certain way. Afterwards I would then inspect (with the client present) the paints condition and water beeding/sheeting so that the customer knows what is going on. You might even persuade him to pay you to do the maintenance washes from there on.

[Hoytman]

This makes me think the car is just not being washed well. Road films and chemicals are never fully removed with touch less washes and automatic washes use oils in the rinse water to promote beading that allows the majority of the water to be blown off...but, leaves residue that may attract more debris than a clean surface would.



Right! Lots of car wash products can actually make a car get dirtier faster. All of the polishes, conditioners, and drying agents used at automatic washes are used within the wet condition of the bay/tunnel and therefore must contain oil, silicone, and/or solvents that won't fully rinse, can build up, and will certainty attract dirt that will change beading characteristics and reduce gloss on any finish. Even if you ask how the client how he has maintained the finish...it will be best to thoroughly wash and inspect it for yourself. I think many times we speak so highly of the coatings that client may conclude they can cut corners on maintenance. That certainly may not be the case, but its where u would start.


I was not aware of the things mentioned in this post. Unbelievable! Thanks for the information Chris.

[AjNavo61490]

Thanks for the help guys. This helped out a lot.

[ShineTimeDetail]

Hi AJ, long time no see. It's one of two things:

1. but there are some polishes that can prove difficult to fully remove their oils and fillers.




How about Menzerna products? I find they have lots of oils in them.