rusted rock chips

[yamad]

Hi all,

I have a couple of small chips in my paint on a daily driver. A few of the chips are rusting, although I believe it is just surface rust (came off with Iron-X).

How should I deal with these? My priority is making sure that the rust doesn't set in and start spreading. I'm not looking for perfect appearance (unless that's the only/best way to protect these areas). It's a daily driver and I expect the rock chips as "a part of life."

I had considered the Dr. Colorchip kit, Iron-X, rust converters and encapsulators (Rust-Mort, Everwood, etc), but I'm not sure what will most effective.

Thanks for any ideas!

[wgilles]

Here's a how to from AG
How To Repair Paint Chips, Dr ColorChip Kit, Langka paint chip repair kit, fill paint chips (http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-repair-paint-chips.html)

EDIT: Forgot to put in. I've used the Dr. Colorchip on 2 different cars, one dark blue, one light green with success. It worked better on the blue car, but still looked good. Nothing will be "perfect" but it sure helps.

[yamad]

Thanks for the tip. Do you think the touchup paint kits are necessary/sufficient to stop the rust? How long were you able to hang on to your Dr. Colorchip kit (in the very likely event that I'll get more chips in the future)?

[SON1C]

how long had the chips been rusted and ironx took care of that?

[ShineMyCar]

I had a similar situation recently and was a bit adventuresome.

I got some green auto tape to surround the scuff really tight and sanded the rust off using 1000 grit sandpaper. I sanded into the edge of the chip a little to get any rust that might be under the chip.

Then re-taped the chip just tight to the chip and layered some factory paint to build up the coverage. Factory paint was quite thin so it worked well. The paint dries very quick so I had to quickly get the paint out of bottle and brush over tape & chip. After each layer, I removed the tape ( removed when paint was still wet.. wasn't sure if I should have waited til it was dry but wet seemed to work well for me ) , and let dry an hour or so, re-taped and put another layer on.

Next summer when I get around to DA sander and honing my technique I think I'll be able to knock down the edges flush with factory paint. I was pretty happy with the way it looks even w/o sanding though.

[Twister]

I bought a fiberglass sanding pen from a local hobby shop to sand a rusted chip on my truck. It worked really well. If you work it long enough it will remove the paint around the chip as well but a few back and forth motions in the chip removed all the rust in my case.

I have both of these

http://www.micromark.com/ultra-micro-fiberglass-brush,7850.html
http://www.micromark.com/mini-brush-with-fiberglass-bristles,6557.html

[yamad]

@SON1C, I think the chips have been there for a couple of months. After rinsing off the iron-x, the light orange color in the chip was gone. There was a huge amount of purple bleeding from those spots. Of course, the rust has come back at this point.

@Twister, after using the fiberglass pen, did you paint over it?

What about the rust conversion products? Are they essential before painting over the chips? Can they be used without painting? Would they provide any protection that way?

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2

[SON1C]

well I'd much rather use this than work with the rusto. rust converter to black primer I was planing on
ironx it and then clean etc and then move into dr colorchipping

[Turboclam]

I purchased a small metal die grinder cutting bit from Home Depot. I use it with my drill to clean out the rust. It takes a little practice but it works really well. I used the fiberglass pen for a while but it's really clumsy compared to the bit. You are able to clean and remove all the rust and many times you'll find more rust hiding around the chip. Also making the chip more rounded makes the touch up work look cleaner. The bit costs around $4.00.