First semi truck detail HELP!!!

[Divine Details]

Good morning Auto Geeks got a call this morning about detailing a semi truck. Never done a semi before so any advice is highly appreciated.
I have a few questions.
How long to 1step polish or AIO?
What type of paint normally CC, SS, or gel coat.
Thanx

[tuscarora dave]

They are normally either gel coat or "Imron" paint or some other form of rough service paint that is super durable and super hard to correct swirls and scratches. You'll likely take a beating on your first semi detail if you even mention swirl removal to the owner. Save yourself the headache and sell "Clean and shiny" and not a swirl removal.

The metal or "Bright work" as some call it is whole nother ball game. I'd go to a Kenworth Dealer and ask them for the right products and some tips for their use, and be prepared to get really black and ruin whatever pads you use on the aluminum.

Forum Member...Vegas Transplant surely can shed some light on the bright work subject as he's either an active or retired truck driver (not too sure of his status) but he's well informed on the subject.

[FUNX650]

Good morning Auto Geeks got a call this morning about detailing a semi truck. Never done a semi before so any advice is highly appreciated.
I have a few questions.
How long to 1step polish or AIO?
What type of paint normally CC, SS, or gel coat.
Thanx

IMO...AGO forum member Vegas Transplant would be the Man I would contact if I were you!
(That is, of course..If he doesn't see this thread aforetime.)
He's been there, done that...many, many times.

:)

Bob

[Buckskincolt]

IMO...AGO forum member Vegas Transplant would be the Man I would contact if I were you!
(That is, of course..If he doesn't see this thread aforetime.)
He's been there, done that...many, many times.

:)

Bob
:iagree: Vegas is your Man? Im the MAN

[Vegas Transplant]

Thanks for the kind words hands!:props:

1A. You will polish according to your test spot revelation.
2A. Varies according to manufacturer and age. And can be a combination of two or more depending on whether the truck has been fleet maintained.
EX. The aero-shield on some tractors are fiberglass and have been damaged and replaced.They also can be gel coat or painted. While the tractor itself may be either bc/cc or ss.

The biggest hurdle? Equipment such as ladders, scaffolding, forklift etc...

Day cabs are the easiest and can be done by ladder only.http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1509/a_big_rig_5.jpg (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/48866)
Depending on whether they have the top aeroshield or not.


Truck models that are CLASSIC, such as W900, 359,379, 389, Fld 120 Classic - can be spider- monkey'ed according to body weight and no platform needed, just a ladder.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1509/a_big_rig_2.jpg (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/48864)


The issue arises when you get to trucks like the Volvo 660, Freightliner Cascadia, Coronado, Century, and other aerdynamic class 8 vehicles. You will most definitely need a platform to detail off of.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1509/a_big_rig_6.jpg (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/48867)

There is not a lot of money to be made off class 8 vehicles that are work trucks. Most drivers just want them clean and shiny and no BS. And company reimbursement is limited to a preset #, with the driver absorbing the rest.

When it comes to the bright work, if owner specifies a degree of bling, make sure that you can accomplish this with tools and products at hand. Most parking lot shiners charge $15 per wheel and $30 per tank and can readily be found all over a class 8 travel lanes.

Use the search feature, keyword Peterbuilt and find threads pertaining to class 8 detailing. I believe forum member LuxuryMobile and Advanced (South Florida) have show and shines of Peterbilt 379, and Freightliner Century Class, respectfully.
You will notice in the thread that Advanced used a forklift and platform.


Pics of vehicle would be helpful in determining paint.

[FUNX650]

^^^^What'd I tell ya, Divine Details ^^^^

Thanks, VT, for sharing your knowledge!!

:)

Bob

[Vegas Transplant]

Suggestions:

*Purchase bug scrubbers Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad can be used on glass, chrome, vinyl, fiberglass, paint and clearcoats—100% safe when used with soapy water. (http://www.autogeek.net/pinsafscrub.html) . These can be cut length wise for better dexterity around stacks while working off a ladder-preferrable 10-12Ft as an 8ft may prove to be a little shakey.

*Purchase a bi-level split bristle nylon truck brush which can be found at most detail suppliers. Will save a lot of time and effort over a washmitt.

*It's a good idea to remove blobs of 5th wheel grease off of frame, catwalks, steps, quarter/half fenders, etc., BUT NOT OFF OF THE 5TH WHEEL ITSELF! No matter how dirty this grease is.

* Clean all SS/chrome first, including stacks, mirrors, grill surround and windshield.

* Use a degreaser (APC diluted) on wheels and fuel tanks, and on the frame. If these items are already at high shine, then forgo the APC and just use soap, as APC will either 'spot' or 'haze' the aluminum.

*Be extra careful of 5th wheel grease that may get on your shoes or clothing...but especially on your wash brush and pressure washer hose.

* Wash tractor thoroughly...BUT DO NOT DRY YET. Very important.

*Fire up the engine and increase the rpm's to a steady 1800-2100 rpm's to dispel any water trapped in the exhaust stack elbow...it won't hurt to run up the rpm's against the governor.

*FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS STEP MAY RESULT IN A HIGHLY FINISHED END PRODUCT THAT IS COVERED IN A BLACK SOOTY RAIN-LIKE MESS ONCE IT'S FIRED UP, or as the driver goes through the gear box while departing.

Kinda busy right now, if I think of anything else Ill get back this evening.


Again, thanks fellow forum members for allowing me to feel a part of, as opposed to being just a poster, on these boards. :thankyousign:

[Vegas Transplant]

suggestions:

* wash tractor thoroughly...but do not dry yet. Very important.

*Safely, fire up the engine and increase the rpm's to a steady 1800-2100 rpm's to dispel any water trapped in the exhaust stack elbow...it won't hurt to run up the rpm's against the governor.

*Shut down engine, then do final rinse to remove soot/water expelled from exhaust stacks. Proceed with normal detail steps.

*failure to follow this step may result in a highly finished end product that is covered in a black sooty rain-like mess once it's fired up, or as the driver goes through the gear box while departing.



addendum in blue.

*Be aware that if power washing tractor frame, hidden 5th wheel grease and Zerk fittings may leave heavy deposits of grease on pavement or drive way. Can make a huge mess.

* May be wise to tape up the openings to the glad hands if there is no glad hand bracket (holder), but failure to do so will have no impact on you, or your detail.

[Divine Details]

Thanks Vegas.
I went and checked out the truck today. It looks like a bc/cc paint job to me. The paint is in very good condition and the only polish needed/wanted is where some branches scuffed the paint.
Also found out the wheels are clear coated so no polishing them :)
I'll post pics when I get done it done.
Again Thanx everyone.

[Kevin Cullen]

Divine, Vegas is correct on his tellings on how to do your project. Large cars are a different beast to detail. The roof caps on Peterbilts are fiberglass and the rest of the truck is painted aluminum. Glad to here you don't have to worry about the wheels but be careful of the tanks and the grill surrounds and headlights if they are aluminum. 9.8 times out of 10 these are uncoated aluminum and any chemical will discolour them and it is a bit of work to bring them back to mirror finish with the proper tools and polishes. Very rare have I come across a stainless steel wrapped fuel tank but they are out there.

[rmagnus]

Subscribed
Would love to see pics and hear about this job. Sounds like a huge challenge. Should make for some great portfolio pictures.

[Vegas Transplant]

Thanks Vegas.
I went and checked out the truck today. It looks like a bc/cc paint job to me. The paint is in very good condition and the only polish needed/wanted is where some branches scuffed the paint.
Also found out the wheels are clear coated so no polishing them :)
I'll post pics when I get done it done.
Again Thanx everyone.

When you do your test spot, also do one on the scuffed area. Tree scrapes are not only difficult to avoid, but hard to achieve perfection as they tend to vary in depth and length along the panel.

The Alcoa Durabrites saved you a ton of effort.

Good luck and happy detailing...:autowash:

[Durallymax]

Big Rig detailing is a different world. I am not an expert detailer by any means, but have a few trucks to maintain, and enjoy the industry for the most part.

Just some opinions from me, none are professional. Take for what they are worth.

I would determine what the truck means to the owner first. Find out if it is a company truck and he just drives for them, if he's leasing the truck from a company, if he is an owner/operator leased onto a company, or if he is a freelance owner/operator.

Basically that is the general order for the care they have towards their vehicles. But its just the starting blocks. Talk to the owner a bit and get to know them. They may be new to the industry, don't think that even if they drive for Swift, they don't care about their truck. Everybody starts somewhere, they may treat that white volvo like its their dream truck. On the other end of the scale is the owner operators which come in all shapes and sizes. Some only care about money and do not want to pay much at all. Others only care about the end product and will go to the top of a mountain to have the best looking truck, however many of these people do their own detailing.

Just like you would with a car, get a feel for the owner and what they want. If its a local fleet, do your best work no matter how cheap they want to be, because polish is a disease in the trucking industry and if you make that truck shine for miles, it will attract the others like magnets.

I mention polish as being a disease, that can be an understatement somedays. I live in the dairy state, milk haulers are everywhere. We haul our own milk so we get roped into the madness at the milk plant. Most of the guys on this forum would actually probably shed a tear of joy as they stepped into the intake bay and saw all new trucks with owners crawling all over them washing and polishing every little spot while they wait for their load to pump off and sanitize. Even in a snowstorm there will be guys washing and polishing their trucks every time they are in the plant, which is a few times per day for many. Enough of the drivers carry towels along with them to hand dry the trucks to avoid water spots. Some of the bigger fleets have policies that require the truck to be spotless before the driver can leave the shop at the end of their shift.

These guys truely are nuts. Our 07 KW T600 looks like somebody entered an 89 honda into the barret jackson auction. Every truck is not more than a couple years old, and many of them are KW W900's, T800's, and pete's too. A couple guys run W Star's and Freightliners, regardless of the brand, all of them are loaded out.

One guy complained to the plant and wanted them to put in a water softener so he wouldnt have water spots on the tank.

Fuel haulers always have new shiny trucks too, rarely ever dirty. The logging companies in our area are in a competition constantly to have the most decked out trucks, they've spent tens of thousands just on chrome screws. These guys are even more nuts. They wax their frames, inside and out, they hand scrub each individual line, and polish even the most hidden areas of the trucks. Then they go logging with them, yes LOGGING, sloshing through mud and such, then do it all over again.



I didn't see what it was for a truck you were detailing. If you're detailing a conventional truck with aluminum cab and such, it will be rivited together. Those rivets are delicate sometimes and like to loose paint so be careful.

I would throw some buckets over the stacks to avoid any water getting in them. If you see a square/rectangular shaped chrome or black piece with quarter size holes in it and what looks like a scotch brite pad under it, tape this off to keep it dry. That is the cab filter that many trucks have. Conventional freightshakers have it under the windsheild, KW's have it on the side either behind the scoop, or under the tube running to the pre cleaner. if you open the hood youll see it. Youll also see the air inlet to the filter somewhere too. try to keep from getting their air filter wet. Its not protected on some trucks once the hood is up.

be a nice guy and wash out their radiator, CAC, and condensor while your at it. They'll thank you.

If you do a KW with a sunroof, ask the owner if they've ever used it. If they haven't opened it in 10 years or so, leave it closed. Too many times these will leak if opened after extended periods of non-use. Ours leaked due to somebody opening it with snow on the roof then closing it wedging snow in the weather strip. Its not cool when you get a few miles down the road and it starts raining on you.

Take a rag and wipe some of the excess grease from areas you feel it will make too much of a mess. Don't go crazy, just wipe the loose stuff. If you end up power washing on a non-sealed greased area (slacks, s-cam, driveshafts, etc. Those parts need to be greased when finished to purge the water from them and reestablish a good seal.


If you do an aero truck, it wont have much aluminum or chrome/SS. If you do a conventional, you could be there for awhile. And if you do a KW, make sure you give it 110% haha.


Dura-Brite's are okay. They don't always last, but provide a "lazy mans" protection. If you really want show quality shine though, durabrites will not give you that, you need bare aluminum, and various grits of sandpaper, compounds and finishes depending on the stage of the aluminum. Make sure to protect yourself, cover all skin surfaces, wear goggles and respirator, or just wear full face mask. You'll scare the little kids, but you're going to scare them more when your teeth start falling out from the aluminum oxide.

If you dont have a lug cap removal tool and want one, you can buy them for a couple bucks at truck stops and dealers. Also remember some caps thread on while others press on. Most are press ons.

Hopefully you can make some sense of my rambling.

[DetailsRUs]

Good morning Auto Geeks got a call this morning about detailing a semi truck. Never done a semi before so any advice is highly appreciated.
I have a few questions.
How long to 1step polish or AIO?
What type of paint normally CC, SS, or gel coat.
Thanx
Go to the vertech site, they have touchless detail chems that will keep you off the truck, pretty much, as the chemicals are sprayed on with a pressure sprayer. They cut right through all the gunk. Just spray on and spray off, basically. You may need a combo of two chems. Good stuff and will save your walket, skin and muscles. Give them a call and present them with all questions you have. Good luck and may you never have to look like a grease junkie again.:dblthumb2:

[GSKR]

Good morning Auto Geeks got a call this morning about detailing a semi truck. Never done a semi before so any advice is highly appreciated.
I have a few questions.
How long to 1step polish or AIO?
What type of paint normally CC, SS, or gel coat.
Thanx

Agree with others just make it shine.There really not that big to detail.The aluminum will eat you alive on time.I just did 4 forged aluminum rims on a fseries truck.Went to peterbuilt and bought the correct backing plate with 2 bricks.One compound and one polishing brick along with flannel pads.I can attest I will never do them again, very dirty process along with throwing out 20 micros. If he wants all that done 280 per day is honest pay.