New to Detailing...a little advice

[Bimmer650]

I am about to do my first detail and was hoping to get a few questions answered. I am doing an '07 Black 911 (probably not the best car to be testing on :laughing:). Here is a list of what I have bought so far:

GG 6" (got a 5" backing plate)
GG Clay
ONR Lube
Nano Skin Fine(new Clay like pad for the DA)
HD Uno (heard great things about this product)
M105 (heard this sets the bar that others are measured for cutting)
M205
LC - Cyan Hydro pad
LC - Tangerine Hydro pad
LC - Crimson Finishing pad
LC - Flat Black pad
I also have the new Optimum MF cutting pad on the way and Powerlock and BFCS, to seal.

So the questions.......What pad/product/combo and speed would I use for each? I do not think my paint is that bad, so I was going to start with the Tangerine first on a test panel maybe using the uno or M205 and check the results (speed 6). thought? Do I need to do 3 polishing/correction steps? I do not want the dreaded holograms.

Another twist - I have a clear bra and i am not sure who made it (was on the car when I bought it). Definitely a kit, so I am thinking 3M. There are swirls in it that I need to get out. Do I just use the M205 and just the crimson pad?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[cleanmycorolla]

Alway start least aggressive first! Start with m205 with the black pad, if it doesn't do much try your tangerine one . the same applies for your clear bra as well. I'm a newbie too, but you came to the right place as guys like BobbyG are always here to help! mike too, and nick, and aiko, and so many good pros!

I'm sure others will chime in, but my advice least aggressive approach first! good luck, take some before and afters so we can all drool

[Bimmer650]

Alway start least aggressive first! Start with m205 with the black pad, if it doesn't do much try your tangerine one . the same applies for your clear bra as well. I'm a newbie too, but you came to the right place as guys like BobbyG are always here to help! mike too, and nick, and aiko, and so many good pros!

I'm sure others will chime in, but my advice least aggressive approach first! good luck, take some before and afters so we can all drool

Thanks.....Great advice.

[DealerDetailer]

This is a 07' Porsche 911, correct? I know you said 911, but I just want to make sure, you know, gotta get the details to be safe lol.

Anyways...

Cleanmycorolla said to start with the least aggresive method. This IS a great key to always work by! Although if working on a Porsche you can almost bet the paint will be hard (unless something was repainted and they used soft clear; also not likely).

I wouldn't start with a black LC Flat pad - "Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes." - Direct from LC

I also wouldnt start with LC Crimson Pad either - "The crimson foam is designed to apply waxes, glazes, and sealants in flawless, even coats without causing swirls. The soft foam has very light polishing ability, making it a great choice for cleaner waxes, too. Since the crimson pad is made of Hydro-Tech foam, it does not soak up liquid waxes and paint sealants like some finishing pads can. You'll be able to cover more paint with less product. The crimson pad is a great choice to apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0." - Direct from LC


I would start with the following for a test spot...

LC - Tangerine Hydro pad with 205. If you don't like the results move up to 105 or Uno.

If you don't like the results above, up it to the LC - Cyan Hydro pad with 205 and 105 or Uno if you don't like the 205 results.

For the clear bar I would use 205 (as you stated) with the LC Crimson Pad which has "very light polishing ability". This should clear up swirls. I would use 4-5 setting.


The reason I recommend the above is because you are dealing with Porsche paint here. I have never dealt with soft factory Prosche clear coat. Its always been hard to very hard clear for me.

[Bimmer650]

This is a 07' Porsche 911, correct? I know you said 911, but I just want to make sure, you know, gotta get the details to be safe lol.

Anyways...

Cleanmycorolla said to start with the least aggresive method. This IS a great key to always work by! Although if working on a Porsche you can almost bet the paint will be hard (unless something was repainted and they used soft clear; also not likely).

I wouldn't start with a black LC Flat pad - "Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes." - Direct from LC

I also wouldnt start with LC Crimson Pad either - "The crimson foam is designed to apply waxes, glazes, and sealants in flawless, even coats without causing swirls. The soft foam has very light polishing ability, making it a great choice for cleaner waxes, too. Since the crimson pad is made of Hydro-Tech foam, it does not soak up liquid waxes and paint sealants like some finishing pads can. You'll be able to cover more paint with less product. The crimson pad is a great choice to apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0." - Direct from LC


I would start with the following for a test spot...

LC - Tangerine Hydro pad with 205. If you don't like the results move up to 105 or Uno.

If you don't like the results above, up it to the LC - Cyan Hydro pad with 205 and 105 or Uno if you don't like the 205 results.

For the clear bar I would use 205 (as you stated) with the LC Crimson Pad which has "very light polishing ability". This should clear up swirls. I would use 4-5 setting.


The reason I recommend the above is because you are dealing with Porsche paint here. I have never dealt with soft factory Prosche clear coat. Its always been hard to very hard clear for me.

Ha ha - yes a Porsche. I like your suggestion on the starting with the Tangerine pad first. I think I will give that a try. Same with the Crimson for the Clear Bra.

I am waiting for some more products to be delivered this week ;-) so I will have to wait until next weekend to try out my skills, or lack of.

[Buckskincolt]

I hope you have more than one pad each? You will need at least 4 Cyan and Tangerine to get your job done.
I also don't Recomend 105/205 combo for a beginner but that's just me. The above info is correct, don't bother with the soft no cut pads, start with the least aggressive cutting pads and move from there. Same with the polish. I'd try something like a paint work cleaner (without abbrasives) on the clear bra, any polish might do more harm than good.

[rider9195]

From what I have read Porsche paint can be soft. So I would start off with M205 on a HT Tangerine pad on speed 5. With a dual action polisher you won't inflict holograms into the paint.

Now one the clear bra, the swirls could possibly be on the paint under the clear bra itself. But it won't hurt to try a very light combo on it. Just be careful around the edges.

[BrightonRT]

I would start with the following for a test spot...


I highlighted in bold the best part of a long post of good advice. Do a test spot. Start with the least aggressive method and work your way up until you find something that works.You may find that all you need is 205 on a tangerine pad, you may find you need 105 on a cutting pad, followed by 205 on a tangerine pad. The key is to dial the process in before you do the whole car.

[DealerDetailer]

I highlighted in bold the best part of a long post of good advice. Do a test spot. Start with the least aggressive method and work your way up until you find something that works.You may find that all you need is 205 on a tangerine pad, you may find you need 105 on a cutting pad, followed by 205 on a tangerine pad. The key is to dial the process in before you do the whole car.

:iagree:

[Bimmer650]

I hope you have more than one pad each? You will need at least 4 Cyan and Tangerine to get your job done.
I also don't Recomend 105/205 combo for a beginner but that's just me.

I have 2 of each pad. Why would I need 4? Also, Why would you not recommend 105/205 for someone new to detailing? I have been a lurker for a long time and have watched numerous training videos of Mike's.

[Buckskincolt]

I have 2 of each pad. Why would I need 4? Also, Why would you not recommend 105/205 for someone new to detailing? I have been a lurker for a long time and have watched numerous training videos of Mike's.

The pads get saturated with product and build up with old paint as you polish.
You want to work clean and a loaded heavy pad does not work well. It takes 4 to 5 pads each to compound and polish an average car. You will damage the pads if you work them saturated, they will build heat and usually separate the Velcro.

IMO the 105/205 while being great polishes are also some of the hardest to use. I think they have a pretty steep learning curve to master. Personally I don't use them much at all, I find there are much easier to use products like the Menzerna, Wolfgang and Optimum polishes. I don't think someone learning their technique and also trying to learn to master the 105/205 combo is a good match .... Just my opinion you understand. Watching videos and having good technique are two different things. Hope this helps!:props:

[DealerDetailer]

Buckskincolt - I believe the 105/205 is one of the best compounds/polish combos to get to learn on. I've taken your post and inserted my thoughts in Bold.


The pads get saturated with product and build up with old paint as you polish. This happens with all polishes. Cleaning your pad on the fly or using a dedicated pad cleaner is what you want to do after every section pass (regardless of how many pads you have - It's just good technique and habit to get).

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly-when-using-porter-cable-style-da-polisher.html

You want to work clean and a loaded heavy pad does not work well. It takes 4 to 5 pads each to compound and polish an average car. You will damage the pads if you work them saturated, they will build heat and usually separate the Velcro. We all know we can't set a number of pads it takes to do a car - just to many variables. Clear coat hardness is a big factor

IMO the 105/205 while being great polishes are also some of the hardest to use. I think they have a pretty steep learning curve to master. Personally I don't use them much at all, I find there are much easier to use products like the Menzerna, Wolfgang and Optimum polishes. I don't think someone learning their technique and also trying to learn to master the 105/205 combo is a good match .... Just my opinion you understand. Watching videos and having good technique are two different things. Hope this helps!:props: We all got our opinions, as I do too. I think 105/205 is great to learn from. 105 is aggressive enough to remove many bad defects, but Not the most extreme compound out there. 205 is outstanding for finishing and is more of the best I've used for last step polishe (along with PO85RD).

-Let's not leave the man hanging...If you don't recommend 105/205, what combo would you recommend for him to start with? :buffing:

[cleanmycorolla]

Personally I think products that are SMAT, are way easier to work with as you can control how much cut you want with them, and stop at anytime once you achieve what you want. With DAT you have ot make sure to work it down all the way and some folks starting out might not understand that. at least this is how I learned, I used m205(SMAT) for my first, then learned DATs after, even mike says, they're(smat) "bubba proof" as in, they're easier for the average person to use and not screw up....i have zero experience with m105, but m205 has been good for me as a newb

[Buckskincolt]

Dealer detailer, I replied to you in bold and hope it helps the OP as well. Also when you post inside of a post like that it would be great if you removed the quotes so someone can reply to your post.:dblthumb2:
This happens with all polishes.where did I say it didn't? Cleaning your pad on the fly or using a dedicated pad cleaner is what you want to do after every section pass (regardless of how many pads you have - It's just good technique and habit to get).Agree, where did I say it was exclusive to any polish? I was answering his question as to why I thought he needed more pads and I gave this as a reason, did you read my post? That's why I always said work clean. Why didn't you answer they OP's question rather than try to slam mine? Do you think Two pads of each color is enough to detail a car? I don't



We all know we can't set a number of pads it takes to do a car - just to many variables. Clear coat hardness is a big factor. That's is what the OP ask, again how many pads do you think he needs on hand to complete a detail?

We all got our opinions, as I do too. I think 105/205 is great to learn from. 105 is aggressive enough to remove many bad defects, but Not the most extreme compound out there. 205 is outstanding for finishing and is more of the best I've used for last step polishe (along with PO85RD) if it's so great, why does almost everyone Recomend to do a third step (for a better finish) almost always with a DAT product? Again read my post, I did point him to other polishes, Optimum, Wolfgang, and Menzerna

if you do a simple search you will find more beginners having trouble finishing with 105/205 than any other polishes hands down. I made it very clear that my post was my opinion but I also answered the OP questions, seems you forgot to.

To answer yours, if it were me and I was working A hard clear I'd go with the Optimum Hyper Spray compound and polish. If it were soft clear I'd go with the Wolfgang Twins. I'd also go in with more than two pads of each color.

I hope the OP gets a little something out of all this?:dunno::doh:

[swanicyouth]

Just one point. If the car is black you may need a finer finishing polish than M205 or UNO.