How to use OPC instead of IPA

[bigez]

I really wish there was a FAQ for Opti-Coat. I've read a bunch of good tips, but haven't seen them all in one place. Tried the Optimum website a while back too with no luck.

Anyway, how can I use Optimum Power Clean before applying Opti-Coat? Do I dillute it and wipe off like IPA? Or does it have to be rinsed, etc...

[embolism]

I tried to start a discussion at one point but it never gained any traction

I think Dave was the one to write about using OPC at 20:1 followed by a wipe with a damp mf. Not sure if he still does it like this or if there was a step beforehand that got most of the polish oils off first (like a wash).

I've started using dedicated pads and Optimum polish II followed by a wipedown with ONR at clay lube dilution before I coat with OC.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/42386-methods-prep-permanent-coatings.html

[Chris Thomas]

I really wish there was a FAQ for Opti-Coat. I've read a bunch of good tips, but haven't seen them all in one place. Tried the Optimum website a while back too with no luck.

Anyway, how can I use Optimum Power Clean before applying Opti-Coat? Do I dillute it and wipe off like IPA? Or does it have to be rinsed, etc...

I plan on doing a FAQ, just need some time to consolidate info. OPC needs to be rinsed so its not a direct replacement for an IPA solution. Spray it onto the panel, wipe with dampened MF, follow with ONR or rinse with water. Don't let it dry...do a section at a time. You may have to go over the section more than once if you have layers of LSP.

[Andy6228]

I thought one had some glossing agents that you want to avoid before opti coat. Is it the dilution rate that makes the difference or am I just wrong? What about opti-clean?

[builthatch]

here's some info i previously put together for reference re: the application of 2.0. Chris, feel free to correct as needed : )

Process: Vehicle surface temperatures should be between 50*‐90*. Do not apply in the sun or during periods of high humidity. Wear clean, new disposable nitrile gloves. Surface preparation is of the utmost importance. Before coating application, the surface must be completely free of debris, dirt, embedded contaminants, surface damage, waxes or sealants. Pre‐treat the vehicle with a 4:1 dilution of Optimum Power Clean/water. Allow solution to dwell without drying on surface. Wash vehicle exterior with non‐abrasive liquid dish soap (e.g. Dawn). Clay bar surfaces thoroughly to assure they are smooth and free of embedded contaminants. If surface scratches or paint marring is
present, correct using appropriate polishing process until finish appearance is satisfactory.**

Again, it is imperative to assure that absolutely no residual waxes, sealants, paint protection or polishing oils are present on any surface to be coated. As a final step before treatment, it is recommended to wipe the surface down with a ~15% isopropyl alcohol/water solution and a high quality microfiber towel.

Surface working time with Opti‐Coat once it is applied to the panel is less than 10 minutes. Prepare syringe and apply an “X” pattern to the foam applicator. Working on one panel at a time, wipe thoroughly in one direction and then go back over your work in a perpendicular manner for complete, uniform coverage. The application must be thin and even. When carefully inspecting the surface, the freshly applied coating will “flash” away within a couple minutes leaving no lingering evidence of product application. If any haze, build‐up, rainbow appearance or distortion is evident, the coating is too thick and needs to be leveled manually. This can be done within a few minutes after application with the applicator or by lightly going over the area with a high quality microfiber towel until the high area is spread evenly and flashes away. Once the initial panel is completed to satisfaction, continue to the next. After initial priming, a few drops on the pad are all that should be needed per panel as subsequent portions of the vehicle are treated. After the 10 minute working time window, Opti‐Coat 2.0 is tacky during the curing process. Do not touch treated areas for an hour. Coating can encounter water after an hour but allow 24 hours before washing to assure curing has completed and product is thoroughly bonded to the surface. Applied coating will continue to harden for days, weeks or months, depending on environmental conditions.

After coating vehicle, it is recommended to immediately rinse and wash any towels or pads used during application to prevent Opti‐Coat 2.0 from hardening on media.

**Opti‐Coat 2.0 is a scratch/mar resistant permanent coating. It is not scratch‐proof. Light scratches can easily be polished away using typical light scratch or swirl removal techniques. In the rare instance further correction is needed, polishing through the coating will require reapplication in that area.

and here is some more info i added later regarding prep:

There are a few options for prepping surfaces to be coated with Opti‐Coat 2.0. This is assuming that the surface has been clay barred, there are NO scratches, hazing, damage, marks or defects that still need to be removed and you are simply ready to prepare the surface to be sealed permanently.

The easiest option is to wash the vehicle well with a Dawn dish soap solution. Let the soap dwell for a bit on the surfaces before rinsing without allowing the soap to dry. Rinse completely and dry thoroughly. As described in the product detail sheet, some people choose to instead use a 4:1 solution of Optimum Power Clean however a Dawn wash is typically adequate. For wheels it is recommended to pre‐clean with Optimum Power Clean. Full strength is usually overkill (3:1 is normally enough to clean dirty wheels) but it can’t necessarily hurt for this purpose. Spray the product, agitate with a mitt or appropriate brush and rinse well. Do not let the solution dry. Then you can wash with the Dawn solution. If you are planning on cleaning the inner wheel barrels, are more aggressive course of action might need to be followed to remove tar and road debris. There are many techniques for accomplishing this – any can be used as long as the process ends with the wheel being cleaned and dried thoroughly and completely.

The above info should be enough to assure a clean surface ideal for Opti‐Coat 2.0.

Many professionals and experts will take an additional final step after the above steps to assure a completely bare and clean surface. They use a clean high quality microfiber towel to wipe the surface a final time with Klean Strip brand Prep‐All, a wax and grease remover prep solvent found at Walmart. The downside to Prep‐All and similar prep solvents is the odor. A less offensive and more cost effective option is to wipe down the surface with a clean high quality microfiber towel and a 15‐25% solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. IPA is found in various solutions on the shelf in any drug store, usually 50%, 70% or 91%. Math is required to figure out the proper dilution to get it to the 20‐25% alcohol range for your specific spray bottle size.

[Chris Thomas]

I thought one had some glossing agents that you want to avoid before opti coat. Is it the dilution rate that makes the difference or am I just wrong? What about opti-clean?

Neither Power Clean nor Opti Clean have glossing agents. The polymers left on the surface after an ONR wash can be painted over with no issue. I do recommend wiping down the paint with Mineral Spirits or a Pure Paint Cleaner that leaves no protection behind just before the actual coating application, but I think the OP is talking about how to strip the surface of old waxes, polishing oils, etc.

[bigez]

I guess to clarify, I'm talking about what to do right after polishing (with a non optimum polish). After I polish, it sounds like I would have to use either IPA or mineral spirits.

[Chris Thomas]

It doesn't matter how you get there, but your goal is for the paint to be squeeky clean...free of polishing oils, waxes, silicones, sealants, etc. I use Optimum Polishes, wipe down with a water dampened MF, then make a pass or two with low odor mineral spirits sometimes (not always).

[Nikhil from Dubai]

*bump* i had the same question, as its not easy to find IPA here. So if i understood correctly, its not a direct replacement to IPA to wipe of polishing oils, but i can do a rinse with OPC at 3:1 strength and then do an ONR wash to prep for OC application?

[DRT BRD]

This is actually a really great topic that I was planning on making a thread about.

Went to Opticoat (pro version) a GT-R and Chrysler 300 this weekend. The GT-R was fine, had 2300 miles so it wasn't a huge ordeal. The 300 had some of the softest paints I've dealt with, even more so than the GT-R. After 4 or 5 different combinations, the ONLY thing that was working on correcting the finish (wasn't terrible but not great) was M205 and a black LC foam pad. Finished it down near perfect.

Anyways, after cleaning and prepping with Car Pro eraser I went to apply the opticoat. What I noticed was the coating was flashing ALMOST instantly to the point where it was leaving streaking and not self leveling all that well. I hadn't run into this on the GT-R so I was veryyyy baffled. Not all the panels were like this but about 3 or 4 so I had to polish it off and reapply but this time I immediately wiped softly after applying and that seemed to do the trick. VERY frustrating and made me re-think a couple of things and my process. I knew M205 had some tricky oils in it but I wanted to give Dr. G a call and discuss a few different things with the paint system and the products used.

He explained that with M205 having the agents inside and being pretty much an anomaly to a lot of other polishes, Eraser wasn't fully cleaning the surface of the polishing oils. I had done two wipe downs so this wasn't a great feeling. It was recommended that use OPC to clean the surface and try it that way. Dr. G explained that since some of the oils were remaining it was causing the instant flash/streaking and OPC would fix that.

I wanted to share my experience with others because I hadn't run into this before with 2.0 and M205 previously, so knowing the concentrate in the Pro version was much stronger, it made me a little worry some. Again, I had tried a few different combinations that were correcting, but were marring pretty badly. And anything that I tried to follow up with wasn't clearing it up. This is a perfect example of a test panel and thankfully I was able to get it knocked out.

[DRT BRD]

bumpppppp