After claying not glass smooth?

[SteveZR12010]

Help, Newbie Here,

My Wife purchased me a 2010 ZR1 Vette this past may. It looks really good but you can feel the stuff yall talk about on the intire surface with the baggy test. I got all the Wolfgang concours series stuff from AutoGeek after watching Mike's videos.
Swirl remover (it has very light swirls), deep gloss paint sealant, paint work polish enhancer, finishing glaze, Fuzion wax, 5 1/2 inch smart pads by lake country orange, white, black, green, blue, red and the 4 inch pads same colors. Porter cable 7424, elastic poly clay and lubricant. Here's the question, I had some Mcguires clay that I purchased before the Wolfgang stuff, so I am using the Mcguires clay and the Wolfgang's lubricant.

I have started on half the carbon fiber roof. I have clayed it about five times with different pressures and still feel residue with the baggy test. It is much cleaner compared to the unclayed sections. I saw in one of Mike's posts that sometimes this might happen, but he did not elaborate except to move on to machine??? The clay does not appear to be getting dirty. You can definitely still feel residue with the baggy test ( though not as bad) on the section that has been clayed. I am not feeling resistance when I clay...only when the lubricant starts to go away do I feel it and then it starts sticking (not sure how much lube to use). What am I doing wrong? Should I continue to clay (change to the Wolfgang clay?) or do I move to the porter cable and the swirl remover? I DO NOT WANT TO MESS IT UP. I tried several searches to no avail on this exact subject.
Any Help would be greatly appreciated.

On a side note...I also got Wolfgang tire gel (have not used yet) that is not suppose to sling off. In my experiance I have not found anything that will not sling off. Did I waste my money on this?

Thank You

Steve

[UltimateDetail]

I would recommend using the palm of your hand more if your using to much of your fingers, and use a little more pressure than before. Also clay a little bit longer, and focus on the heavily soiled ares more. Also don't use as much lubricant or water, it's all about a good balance. If all that fails I would recommend using a more aggressive clay. Such as Meguiars mirror glaze aggressive clay(it's red). And after that, if the surface still feels gritty, you need to step up to polishing.. I just did a 2012 Mustang GT and went by the same process above and had awesome results!
Good Luck and happy detailing!:dblthumb2:

[UltimateDetail]

On a side note...I also got Wolfgang tire gel (have not used yet) that is not suppose to sling off. In my experiance I have not found anything that will not sling off. Did I waste my money on this?

I had the Wolfgang tire gel at one point and if you put it on without measuring and drive off soon after, about a quarter of what you applied will sling off.. What I did to make it have no sling, is apply it in a garage, and go thin with it, then let it dry for 10-20 mins, then reapply until I get the desired shine. You can let it dry while you do other things too.. Also, in my experience, it will last a long time depending on how what kind of roads you drive on(puddles, construction, etc.)

[SteveZR12010]

Thanks for the response. I did use the palm and I even got on the door jam for more downward pressure...and as I said there is a difference between the clayed and unclayed but it is not glass smooth as it is suppose to be. I will do that for the tire gel....Thanks Jeff.

[UltimateDetail]

Thanks for the response. I did use the palm and I even got on the door jam for more downward pressure...and as I said there is a difference between the clayed and unclayed but it is not glass smooth as it is suppose to be. I will do that for the tire gel....Thanks Jeff.

No problem, yeah just do what I recommended and you should be all set. Also don't use so much pressure that you can see the clay getting thin, like I said it's about balance.:xyxthumbs:

[maxniman]

I just picked up a 2013 Grand Sport and experienced the same thing using Mothers clay. the paint was not bad, due to being new, but you could still feel some debris with the baggie. the Mothers clay improved it a little but definitely not smooth. I moved on to polishing with Menz4500

[SteveZR12010]

I just picked up a 2013 Grand Sport and experienced the same thing using Mothers clay. the paint was not bad, due to being new, but you could still feel some debris with the baggie. the Mothers clay improved it a little but definitely not smooth. I moved on to polishing with Menz4500


And how did that work out for ya?

[kmsdetailing]

I don't know if I should say this since AG doesn't carry this item but I would have loved to have known of a tire gell that didn't sling off.

I purchased Eagle 1. I never had any issues with sling.
I'm now going to throw out all those other bottles or sell them/give them away at my next garage sale

Eagle One EnviroShine Tire Shine Gel (http://www.eagleone.com/enviroshine-tire-shine-gel)

[FlawlessJ]

First off You are a really lucky guy if your wife bought you a ZR1!! Secondly another good tireshine that won't sling is going to be ultima tire and trim guard it's not super shiny but gives your tires a nice lite shine that lasts for weeks

[FUNX650]

@OP:...Some very pertinent information in this GM Tech. Service Bulletin.

(What I've 'bolded' could, perhaps, be applicable to your claying-issue.)

"Body
Paint and Body Panels:

The appearance of the ZR1 has some notable differences. The splitter (chin spoiler) is made of carbon fiber and is very hard and brittle. Little nudges can happen when the driver finds a low curb or traveling up or down an incline which will cause an abrasion or break in the structure. All of the exterior carbon fiber panels have a clear coat to protect them from UV light. If the clear coat protection is scratched, or rubbed away, the panel beneath is no longer protected. When unprotected carbon fiber is exposed to UV rays, the color will lighten significantly causing it to appear white or bleached. The delivering dealership will install the splitter and it should be inspected before the car is sold to the customer for any cuts or abrasions. Any cuts, nicks or abrasions will not be covered by the GM warranty. Carbon fiber can have rough and sharp edges. Caution must be used when handling the splitter and the rocker extensions and when washing the car after the parts have been installed.

Looking at the side of the car, you will notice the roof and roof halo bar are carbon fiber. These parts have a special clear coat to protect against UV fading and degradation. Customers should be advised that deep scratches cannot be repaired with regular clear coat. If a deep scratch occurs, the panel must be replaced. Replacement parts will come with the clear coat applied. Dealers should be aware that even though the carbon fiber looks smooth and glossy, there are small micro depressions where the clear coat has sunk to fill the space in the fiber weave. If a polish or wax dries to a white or light colored haze, the residue may fill the small depressions and it will be difficult to remove it. This is not a product concern but some owners may note that after waxing the part has small white dots. This is likely to be a wax residual in the pores of the fiber. This is especially true on the underside of the hood. Since the underside of the hood is not subjected to UV light it is not clear coated and tiny pores in the fiber are open. If customers wax or polish this surface they may note white specks in the paint. Advise them the white specks are residual wax and must be removed with a wax or polish remover."

"Another noticeable feature on the ZR1 is the raised clear panel in the center of the hood. This is a polycarbonate surface and it has a very thin UV coat applied. This prevents the panel from crazing under the UV rays of the sun. Special attention should be given to the panel if the hood is being painted or buffed. Replacement hoods are currently being serviced with the clear panel attached. In the case of a collision repair, the paint facility must take care not to scratch the lens, not to apply any paint or solvent or use polishing or buffing equipment on the clear panel.

Notice: DO NOT allow any solvent or paint to come in contact with the clear hood insert as this will damage the UV coating.

Important: Never use wax, polish or spray cleaner on the clear panel in an attempt to remove any scratches as the protective coating may be removed".


Just some things to think about...

And... You Lucky Guy!!!
Does your Wife have any sisters?!?!


:)

Bob

[maxniman]

And how did that work out for ya?

worked out great, followed with Wolfgang 3DGPS

[SteveZR12010]

@OP:...Some very pertinent information in this GM Tech. Service Bulletin.

(What I've 'bolded' could, perhaps, be applicable to your claying-issue.)

"Body
Paint and Body Panels:

The appearance of the ZR1 has some notable differences. The splitter (chin spoiler) is made of carbon fiber and is very hard and brittle. Little nudges can happen when the driver finds a low curb or traveling up or down an incline which will cause an abrasion or break in the structure. All of the exterior carbon fiber panels have a clear coat to protect them from UV light. If the clear coat protection is scratched, or rubbed away, the panel beneath is no longer protected. When unprotected carbon fiber is exposed to UV rays, the color will lighten significantly causing it to appear white or bleached. The delivering dealership will install the splitter and it should be inspected before the car is sold to the customer for any cuts or abrasions. Any cuts, nicks or abrasions will not be covered by the GM warranty. Carbon fiber can have rough and sharp edges. Caution must be used when handling the splitter and the rocker extensions and when washing the car after the parts have been installed.

Looking at the side of the car, you will notice the roof and roof halo bar are carbon fiber. These parts have a special clear coat to protect against UV fading and degradation. Customers should be advised that deep scratches cannot be repaired with regular clear coat. If a deep scratch occurs, the panel must be replaced. Replacement parts will come with the clear coat applied. Dealers should be aware that even though the carbon fiber looks smooth and glossy, there are small micro depressions where the clear coat has sunk to fill the space in the fiber weave. If a polish or wax dries to a white or light colored haze, the residue may fill the small depressions and it will be difficult to remove it. This is not a product concern but some owners may note that after waxing the part has small white dots. This is likely to be a wax residual in the pores of the fiber. This is especially true on the underside of the hood. Since the underside of the hood is not subjected to UV light it is not clear coated and tiny pores in the fiber are open. If customers wax or polish this surface they may note white specks in the paint. Advise them the white specks are residual wax and must be removed with a wax or polish remover."

"Another noticeable feature on the ZR1 is the raised clear panel in the center of the hood. This is a polycarbonate surface and it has a very thin UV coat applied. This prevents the panel from crazing under the UV rays of the sun. Special attention should be given to the panel if the hood is being painted or buffed. Replacement hoods are currently being serviced with the clear panel attached. In the case of a collision repair, the paint facility must take care not to scratch the lens, not to apply any paint or solvent or use polishing or buffing equipment on the clear panel.

Notice: DO NOT allow any solvent or paint to come in contact with the clear hood insert as this will damage the UV coating.

Important: Never use wax, polish or spray cleaner on the clear panel in an attempt to remove any scratches as the protective coating may be removed".


Just some things to think about...

And... You Lucky Guy!!!
Does your Wife have any sisters?!?!


:)

Bob


Thanks Bob,
That is some good info. That could very well be what it is (there are small micro depressions where the clear coat has sunk to fill the space in the fiber weave.) There is no wax residue that I can see. I have waxed it once already a month or so ago. Maybe the baggy test is too sensitive:)

Now you have me a little worried about the clear hood panel. I waxed it also at the time with no apparent problems....I will for sure be careful now with it.

Sorry no sisters

[FUNX650]

Thanks Bob,
That is some good info. That could very well be what it is (there are small micro depressions where the clear coat has sunk to fill the space in the fiber weave.) There is no wax residue that I can see. I have waxed it once already a month or so ago. Maybe the baggy test is too sensitive:)

Now you have me a little worried about the clear hood panel. I waxed it also at the time with no apparent problems....I will for sure be careful now with it.

Sorry no sisters

Thank You...SteveZR12010.

Since you were discussing tire dressings...
I thought this might also be of interest (something else to use caution around also!!...From the same GM TSB)


Chassis
Brakes

The brakes are one of the first things to attract attention. The rotors are ceramic and they will last most owners the life of the car. If the car is used aggressively on the track, they will wear and this is not a warrantable item. Technicians MUST BE AWARE the rotors are hard and the edges will chip if they are struck with the wheel when the wheel is removed and installed. If the edges of the rotor are chipped, the rotor must be replaced. Each vehicle will be shipped with one set of rotor protectors. These are the blue foam pieces. These should be used at the dealership and presented to the customer when they take delivery of the ZR1. If the dealership wants an additional set, they may be purchased from GMSPO. A 25.4 mm (1 in) foam pipe insulator can be used if no protector is available. These can be purchased at most home improvement stores such as Lowes® or similar sales outlets. The protector should be slid over the top of the rotor before the wheel is removed. It can be passed from the back of the wheel or through the wheel spokes and pushed over the rotor. This will provide protection in case the wheel is dropped during removal or installation.

Unlike the regular brakes on Corvettes, the brake pads do not have a wear sensor that will rub against the rotors when they are in need of replacement. The ZR1 uses an electric sensor and the words "Replace Brake Pads" will appear in the Driver Information Center (DIC) when they are worn enough to require replacement. It is recommended that the rotors be checked at each pad replacement. The rotor must be weighed to determine if they are worn. Certified Corvette ZR1 dealerships were sent a scale and calibration weights for this process. The procedure is described in GM’s Service Information.

The ZR1 has a braking system to equal the performance of the drivetrain. The entire brake system is designed to bring the car to a safe and sure stop. To attain the level of braking necessary, there are a few bits of information you should know.

Noise and Dust: Under certain weather or operating conditions, occasional brake squeak, squeal, or other noise might be heard with the vehicle's performance braking system. This brake system is designed for superior fade resistance and consistent operation using high performance brake pads. Brake noise and brake dust are normal and do not affect system performance. Brake components should not be replaced to address noise and dust concerns.

Customers and dealership personnel must be advised to NEVER ALLOW WHEEL CLEANER, TIRE CLEANER, or BRAKE CLEANER TO CONTACT THE ROTORS. Ceramic rotors will absorb any material that comes in contact with them. Only soap and water should be used to clean wheels and tires. Any product that is applied to the rotor surface will cause damage to the surface and is not covered under the GM warranty.
For 2009, the brake controller for all Corvettes has changed from Delphi to Bosch so controllers and wheel speed sensors are not interchangeable from past years. The new Bosch control system requires an "Active" Wheel Speed Sensor (Active WSS) in the hub bearings. The bearing is a carryover design except the rear half shaft spline has been changed on the Z51, Z06 and ZR1 to increase the number of teeth (up to 33 from 30) on the shaft and rear bearing hub. The haft shaft spline on base Corvettes will remain with 30 teeth. These new bearings use the existing carryover sensor cap with carryover design of the pigtail and connector.

Looks Like: "Special Car = Special Car-Care"


:)

Bob