I have a neglected Van I need to get back in shape

[TechDiver]

My wife has a 2005 Kia Sedona that has mainly just been through automatic car washes. It has had NXT put on it a few times. It really needs some work done on the finish, so I finally started reading the forum to learn a little from you all.

Prep:
I was going to switch to doing hand washes. After that I assume I will need to use clay bar on it. I don't plan on doing clay bar all the time like people with nice antique cars, so should I go with Mother's or the Pinnacle Poly? This is far from being a show car, so my highest priority is long term protection. I am thinking of going with a sealant with the option of adding wax. Would the Klasse AIO and High Gloss Sealant be a nice fit for me? Let me know if I am leaving anything out.

Wax:
I am pondering the one coat AIO, 2 coats High Gloss, and then possibly topping it with IW 845. I am not the kind of person that wants to wax often, but I do appreciate a nice deep shine if it doesn't require constant work. I appreciate any help you guys can provide.

Thanks,
Tech Diver

[brlukosk]

Mothers clay works well. I use it because I can get it over the counter locally.

What are your plans for polishing? I don't think you're going to get the result you are looking for if you are just claying and sealing/waxing.

[TechDiver]

Mothers clay works well. I use it because I can get it over the counter locally.

What are your plans for polishing? I don't think you're going to get the result you are looking for if you are just claying and sealing/waxing.

Thanks. I have just learned about claying and thought maybe the AIO was Polish. That is why I need your input. Help me fix anything I left out or make any changes to the products I am currently looking at. Do I need an electric polisher?

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[Setec Astronomy]

Thanks. I have just learned about claying and thought maybe the AIO was Polish. That is why I need your input. Help me fix anything I left out or make any changes to the products I am currently looking at. Do I need an electric polisher?

Sure, KAIO is a "polish", and it will clean your paint well, but it's not going to reduce any swirl marks you may have (especially by hand). If you are just trying to make your ride look a little better and make it easier to clean, then your plan of claying, KAIO by hand, SG, and 845 is probably going to make a huge difference. Your car will have shiny swirls, but it will probably look better than most other cars on your block.

[tuscarora dave]

I'd suggest not getting too wrapped up in a bunch of compounding and polishing on the Sedona. If it's seen a lot of automatic car washes, (with the brushes) the clear coat has probably been thinned quite a bit as a result. A good hand polishing or light machine polishing would probably bring it to a nice pleasing look before the wax or sealant is applied.

[ryance39]

I would, wash, clay, and go with Meguiars california gold cleaner wax. You can get it all over the counter, it's easy to use and is my favorite cleaner wax. Pretty good durability and actually leaves a decent shine.

[TechDiver]

If it's seen a lot of automatic car washes, (with the brushes) the clear coat has probably been thinned quite a bit as a result.

It is the touchless type autowash. Do those wear it down as well?

I didn't think about swirl removal, so I guess I'm looking at spending a little more money.


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[tuscarora dave]

No You'll be alright then. I've worked on a lot of cars that go through the brushes type car wash and it' pretty hard on the paint. Since you've been using the touchless, disregard my previous comment.

[tuscarora dave]

I didn't think about swirl removal, so I guess I'm looking at spending a little more money.


Sent from Android via TapaTalk 2.

You can get a starter kit for around $250 then you'll have the machine, a few pads, a polish and a few towels to get the car de-swirled and then easily maintained into the future.

Or...you might be able to find a local member willing to take the job of doing the initial detail if you're not into all of that.

[Mike Phillips]

Check this out... the results are all form using a one-step cleaner/wax after claying...


KISS Detail - Extreme Makeover - Toyota Highlander (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/30979-kiss-detail-extreme-makeover-toyota-highlander.html)

A friend of mine who's not really into cars but knows I'm into cars asked me if his paint could be saved and if it could be saved if I could recommend the products he would need to restore the finish. At first I told him a handful of products to get and then I said, heck... why don't you bring it down to the studio and I'll help you to buff it out and I'll use this project to make a point about matching your services to your customer.

In this case, this is a daily driver which is parked outside 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It's an older S.U.V. and but it still runs great but after we polish it out it's still going to be a daily driver that sits out side 24x7. The point is this, match your services to your customer and in this case if a person were to bring you a detailing project like this the right approach would be the simple approach, that is a KISS Detail.

KISS = Keep it Simple Simon

KISS Detail = Keep it Simple - Wash, Clay use a One-Step Cleaner/Wax


The owner, John has NEVER used any kind of machine to buff out car paint. He's heard about the horror stories associated with improper machine buffing but never actually used an electric buffer to buff out a car. After this detailing project he is no longer worried about instilling swirls, burning through the paint or making a mistake when machine polishing.


Without further ado... here's the rig and here's the process...

The paint is chalky and dull with extreme oxidation on the horizontal surfaces. There's absolutely no gloss, slickness or shine left in the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite001.jpg


Pinnacle XMT Series 360 (http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-360.html) is a one-step cleaner wax specifically for machine application and it does a great job of cleaning, polishing and leaving behind a coat of protection in one, easy step.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite002.jpg



This is the paint near the windshield squirter, it's so oxidized it looks more like white primer than a high gloss auto paint.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite004.jpg


The mirrors actually have a texture to them...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite005.jpg


Right now in Florida we're going through a cold spell (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/30912-ice-scrapers-fla.html), so instead of washing this rig outside, we opted to use Optimum No Rinse (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html) or ONR
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite006.jpg


After washing and drying the exterior we then clayed the paint using XMT Speed Clay (http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-speed-clay-bar.html) and Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay Lube (http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-speed-clay-lubricant.html). John had also never used detailing clay before.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite007.jpg



After a little information on how DA Polishers work and how to do a "Section Pass" (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/24074-show-car-garage-video-how-do-section-pass-when-machine-polishing-da-polisher.html) , I turned John loose on the Driver's side of the hood while I tackled the roof.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite008.jpg


We placed some 3M Painter's Tape (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-auto-masking-tapes.html)down the middle of the hood to show the before and after difference in results.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite009.jpg


After machine application of the XMT 360 the gloss, shine and slickness have been restored.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite010.jpg


The passenger side is still dull, lifeless and rough looking...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite011.jpg



After we proved our system would work to restore the paint I placed some green 3M painter's tape on the hood to show John how a person would normally divide a panel like the hood up into sections. Buffing out a car by machine is simply a matter of buffing out section by section and after buffing out one section and moving onto new territory, be sure to overlap a little into the previous section for good UMR

UMR = Uniform Material Removal

The tape was just for John's benefit to better visualize how to divide a panel up into smaller sections and after the point was made we removed the tape.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite015.jpg


We did about half the Toyota using 5.5" Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html) and then so he would have a chance to try out a different pad system for experience we also used the 5.5" Lake Country Yellow CCS Cutting Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-5-5inch-foam-buffing-pads.html) for the rest of the Toyota.

John used the Porter Cable 7424XP (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html) while I used the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-orbital-polisher.html).
(The same type of polishers, just different brands)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite016.jpg


John buffing out his Toyota using the Porter Cable 7424XP
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite017.jpg


While John was working below, I tackled the roof which was just as dull and oxidized as the hood... we poured off some XMT 360 from the XMT 360 which is availabe in larger sizes like a quart bottle (http://www.autogeek.net/fco32ozxmt36.html) into a couple of Autogeek Squeeze Bottles (http://www.autogeek.net/autogeek-squeeze-bottle.html) to make it easier to dispense product.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite018.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite019.jpg



Here you can see the gloss and clarity have been restored...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite020.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite021.jpg


The lights in the reflection are the overhead florescent lights and now that we've restored a smooth surface the paint will now reflect images again.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite022.jpg


As I re-position the camera and take another shot you can see the light reflection completely disappears on the side I have not buffed yet.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite023.jpg



After buffing out the paint, we removed the oxidation from the headlights using a Flitz Mini Scuffpad (http://www.autogeek.net/flitz-mini-scuff-pads.html) and then restored the clarity using some Diamondite Clear Plastic Enhancer (http://www.autogeek.net/dia-clear-plastic-enhancer.html) and my new Flex PE 14-2 150 Rotary Buffer (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/30206-new-flex-pe14-2-150-rotary-buffer.html).

Before
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite031.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite032.jpg

After
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite033.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite034.jpg


And here are the results... the paint is clear and smooth and because we've restored smoothness we've restored and even amped up the gloss. Just look at how glossy the paint looks anywhere there's a gloss point.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite026.jpg


The mirrors are now smooth and shiny!
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite026c.jpg



The roof is now just as smooth and shiny as the lower portions... you can see the gloss on the gloss points.. (the ribs and any curves)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite027.jpg



Before there was zero reflectivity... now you see the Flex logo from the banner on the wall reflecting off the hood with excellent DOI for white paint.

DOI - Distinction of Image
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite028.jpg


Except for the rock chips, the finish on the Toyota is crisp, shiny, slick and very glossy...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite029.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/990/1eoWhite030.jpg


Then entire job took us less than 4 hours working together and this included taking time for one-on-one training and discussion of how products and process work so John will be able to do this on his own in the future and show others how they can do it themselves for their cars.

Each one teach one....


On the Autogeek Store
XMT Speed Clay (http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-speed-clay-bar.html)
Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay Lube (http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-speed-clay-lubricant.html)
Pinnacle XMT Series 360 16 Ounce Bottle (http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-360.html)
Optimum No Rinse (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html)
3M Painter's Tape (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-auto-masking-tapes.html)
Porter Cable 7424XP (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html)
Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-orbital-polisher.html)
Lake Country Yellow CCS Cutting Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-5-5inch-foam-buffing-pads.html)
5.5" Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html)
Autogeek Squeeze Bottles (http://www.autogeek.net/autogeek-squeeze-bottle.html)
XMT 360 32 Ounces Bottle (http://www.autogeek.net/fco32ozxmt36.html)


:xyxthumbs:

[TechDiver]

Hmmmm. I am wondering if I should just take it to someone that knows what they are doing.

[bmwgalore]

Hmmmm. I am wondering if I should just take it to someone that knows what they are doing.


Maybe...

- This whole detailing thing is very easy once you get a hang of it, todays technology allow anyone to get professional results in no time.

- The initial investement can be heavy tho... A DA polisher, several pads, compound and polish, sealant/wax, microfiber towels, brushes and several interior products... Plus the wheels and tires.

Ask yourself if tou really want to jump in, then go for it, or not.


I only got into detailing because I was sick an tired of having to pay $400 so the dealer could ruin and destroy my paint... So I had to learn how to do it myself... The investment was high in the begining tho.