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dnobel
07-17-2012, 08:38 AM
I've finished the bulk of the compounding/polishing and am finally getting around to paint touch-ups on my 2008 metallic beige Highlander. The tailgate is a particular challenge and I'd appreciate any help from fellow geeks.

Virtually all the rust on the vehicle is concentrated on the tailgate. (Please look at the attached photos.) All the spots are small (less than 4mm), and most are much smaller. There are two types: dots where the paint is actually bubbling and extremely small dots that look to be surface only. What is particularly puzzling is that there appears to be no associated chips or physical abrasion to the paint.The places where there is bubbling and rust breaking through from underneath started out just like the tiny surface spots you see. The paint just seems to be failing. As you can see, there is also rust and corrosion on the chrome.

The tools and materials I already have on hand include CarPro Trix and Iron-X paste, Flitz polish, and a Euro Tool (fiberglass pen) similar to the one in the attached photo. I also have both the Langka (with Toyota paint) and Dr. Colorchip kits.

I frequently travel long distances in the winter between Massachusetts and Northwest Ontario. The vehicle is subjected to massive amounts of road salt every year during these trips, and I suspect that my problem is related.

I should also mention that I purchased the truck new and had the dealer apply both rust proofing and a long-lasting polymer paint protection with annual supplements. The rust proofing carries a ten year warranty and the paint protection five year; both are still in force.

Thanks in advance!

Twister
07-17-2012, 10:25 AM
The second and third picture look like surface rust. Have you clayed the paint or used ironx? I think both of those should remove the rust in those pictures. I have one of those pens (2 actually) and have used it for touch ups. On my truck I had a rust spot on a chip and sanded it away before using touch up paint. They work really well.

The first picture is surely from inside. What body panel is that? Rust had to get behind or into the panel for that to happen. I'd guess it's from water or salt that caused it. I bet if you tried to remove the paint in that one spot you will find its larger than the bubble.

anarchy
07-17-2012, 10:45 AM
Ive had cars with surface rust like that and it comes right out if ya compound it.

dnobel
07-17-2012, 11:42 AM
Twister and Anarchy, thanks to both of you for your feedback.


Have you clayed the paint or used ironx?
Yes, the car has been thoroughly clayed already prior to compounding/polishing/sealing. I also washed the whole vehicle down with Trix after the clay step. I will try this again, concentrating only on the tailgate and see what happens.


What body panel is that?
All photos show the tailgate.



Rust had to get behind or into the panel for that to happen.... I bet if you tried to remove the paint in that one spot you will find its larger than the bubble.
The rust area DOES extend out a bit behind the bubbles, but it is confined to the surface of the metal behind the paint. Underneath a thin rust layer, the metal is shiny and sound. (I have already used the pen to grind away a couple of areas and have seen that this is the case.)


Ive had cars with surface rust like that and it comes right out if ya compound it.
I will try that if focused treatment with the clay and Iron-X don't get it all.

Twister
07-17-2012, 12:48 PM
I'm surprised it didn't come off when you clayed the first time. Maybe the clay wasn't aggressive enough to get it all off. I'd focus on one spot with the clay and see if it will remove it. Start with ironx first and see if it reacts maybe it will make the claying easier too

If you still have the bubble spot bare you could treat it with a little rust inhibitor. I got one from the place I ordered my touch up paint and it worked really well. I can't remember the name of it right now.

faisal
07-17-2012, 02:04 PM
Sonax fallout cleaner

Sent from my GT-I9100 using AG Online

dnobel
07-21-2012, 02:29 PM
Well, this is interesting. After reading these replies, I re-treated the entire rear lift door with Trix, left it on for a few minutes, scrubbed well with a MF, and rinsed it off. Unfortunately, many tiny rust spots remained on the surface of the paint.

Then I decided to try something a little different. I smeared Iron-X paste onto the entire panel using my hand with a nitrile glove on it. After a few minutes, hundreds of tiny purple dots appeared, most of them concentrated in a few areas. I agitated the paste with my glove, again working over the whole panel, then waited again. I continued this for a few more cycles until no more purple dots appeared, then finally rinsed again. After drying, I re-clayed the panel.

Eureka! No more rust spots!

There is no evidence of stone chips or physical abrasion on the panel. Obviously, that door somehow became severely contaminated with ferrous particles over time. Over time, the tiny spots seem to gradually get a bit larger (although still very, very small) until a few began to actually damage the paint.

I guess this is living proof for why it is important to periodically treat paint with Iron-X, and why it may be necessary to use the paste on vertical panels with deeply embedded particles. It is quite likely that the had I performed this decon months ago, I would not now be dealing with the several tiny spots where the paint is bubbling and cracking and needs to be touched up.

Thanks again for all your suggestions.

therock0720
07-21-2012, 08:48 PM
wow congrats!