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archer28
07-07-2012, 11:26 AM
I'm buffing my car for the first time. Just got in the griots da with a 5" backing plate and an assortment of 5" CCS pads.
Also have #205, and Meg UC
Everything is working great, I'm just not getting out the larger scratches.
Do I need some #105?

I thought the UC had more cut I guess.

rider9195
07-07-2012, 12:07 PM
Those larger scratches are probably RIDS. Random Isolated Deeper Scratches. There isn't much you can do about them especially on a daily driver, to risky to try to remove them at times. As long as the swirls are removed and the paint looks good, I would leave it at that.

Sometimes you just have to live this the deeper defects.

Buckskincolt
07-07-2012, 12:09 PM
I'm buffing my car for the first time. Just got in the griots da with a 5" backing plate and an assortment of 5" CCS pads.
Also have #205, and Meg UC
Everything is working great, I'm just not getting out the larger scratches.
Do I need some #105?

I thought the UC had more cut I guess.

That depends on what you are calling larger scratches? Pictures would help, can you hook a fingernail in the scratches you are talking about?

archer28
07-07-2012, 12:15 PM
That depends on what you are calling larger scratches? Pictures would help, can you hook a fingernail in the scratches you are talking about?

No I can't feel it with a fingernail. The combo I'm using right now is taking out the very fine swirls, but there are a few leftovers that (as rider mentioned) I'll probably have to live with.

I had a pretty bad hood scratch that I wetsanded and rotary buffed. Its still barely visible in the right light and I was hoping that the DA would "blend" it a little more.

I think when I get some sealant and wax on top, the problems I'm seeing might be a little less evident.

I just wondered if a more aggressive compound might lessen the visibility of the scratches more than the UC.

Trying to get too many scratches out I guess!

WRAPT C5Z06
07-07-2012, 12:18 PM
The orange pad doesn't cut as much as people think. UC is a mild compound. Pick up some MF cutting pads and start out with UC. If that doesn't cut it, try M105.

archer28
07-07-2012, 01:06 PM
Thanks Karl. I do have a makita rotary on loan from the trade school where I teach, along with some 3m rubbing compound and a grey 3m pad (the one with the quick connect in the center). That was what I used to take out the majority of the large scratch on the hood.
I could have probably gotten it out more but I was afraid of sanding through the clear (and it was 95 out!).

The rotary left some swirls that are gone after the DA. I'm just too chicken to sand much more.

Everybody says it looks great so I guess I need to quit sweating every little thing.

bmwgalore
07-07-2012, 01:53 PM
Thanks Karl. I do have a makita rotary on loan from the trade school where I teach, along with some 3m rubbing compound and a grey 3m pad (the one with the quick connect in the center). That was what I used to take out the majority of the large scratch on the hood.
I could have probably gotten it out more but I was afraid of sanding through the clear (and it was 95 out!).

The rotary left some swirls that are gone after the DA. I'm just too chicken to sand much more.

Everybody says it looks great so I guess I need to quit sweating every little thing.


For the scratches you couldn't get remove, try some filling glaze and a coat of sealant or wax over it... Poorboys Black Hole for (dark colors) or Poorboys White diamond (light colors) are 2 great glazes.

mwoolfso
07-07-2012, 02:46 PM
I would go with a Yellow pad and UC and see how that works out for you. If not then Yellow w/ M105 would be the next level of cut. After that, Surbuf with M105.

HellDemon
07-07-2012, 03:37 PM
Unfortunately I don't use CCS pads, but I do use the hydrotechs and UC. Blue HT + UC removes all scratches except for RIDS using speed 6 on my 7424xp, even on harder clears (though haven't tried ceramic)

WRAPT C5Z06
07-07-2012, 03:40 PM
I would go with a Yellow pad and UC and see how that works out for you. If not then Yellow w/ M105 would be the next level of cut. After that, Surbuf with M105.
Yellow pads finish horribly. There's much better options that have good cut and finish better.

mwoolfso
07-07-2012, 06:30 PM
Yep, using a yellow pad will require a "finishing pass".

WRAPT C5Z06
07-07-2012, 06:35 PM
Yep, using a yellow pad will require a "finishing pass".
Sometimes a polish and finishing step.

glen e
07-07-2012, 06:36 PM
Everybody says it looks great so I guess I need to quit sweating every little thing.

this is what I am still learning...otherwise I would drive myself in to sleeplessness...it was NEVER going to be right....Im the MAN

Vegas Transplant
07-07-2012, 06:42 PM
I'm buffing my car for the first time. Just got in the griots da with a 5" backing plate and an assortment of 5" CCS pads.
Also have #205, and Meg UC
Everything is working great, I'm just not getting out the larger scratches.
Do I need some #105?

I thought the UC had more cut I guess.


No I can't feel it with a fingernail. The combo I'm using right now is taking out the very fine swirls, but there are a few leftovers that (as rider mentioned) I'll probably have to live with.

I had a pretty bad hood scratch that I wetsanded and rotary buffed. Its still barely visible in the right light and I was hoping that the DA would "blend" it a little more.

I think when I get some sealant and wax on top, the problems I'm seeing might be a little less evident.

I just wondered if a more aggressive compound might lessen the visibility of the scratches more than the UC.

Trying to get too many scratches out I guess!

Factory or repaint?
Sounds like you've done enough already.

flamed03vert
07-08-2012, 07:08 PM
Just went through this same thing on a black 2010 Challenger today. Same combo and everything. I had to run on speed 6 with a well primed pad to get the swirls. The yellow heavy cut was leaving alot of marring. The RIDS are frustrating. I agree that wet sanding and several passes would do wonders.