If I had a brain, I'd be dangerous.

[Shakabruddah808]

Greetings fellow AG fans!

I've been thinking. I am going to be polishing my car soon with Blackfire's Gloss Enhancing Polish. If I used the polish to remove old waxes, won't they gum up the polishing pad?

Should I use a good wax stripper first? I was thinking of using Griot's Garage Paint Prep, or would any good APC diluted to 3:1 or full strength do the same thing?

Here's the polishing pad I'll be using:
White Polishing CCS Euro Foam Hand Polish Applicator (http://www.autogeek.net/white-euro-applicator.html)

And Griot's Garage Paint Prep:
Griot's Garage Paint Prep, Griots Paint Cleaner, Prewax cleaner (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-paint-prep.html)

[RoadRageDetail]

I see where you're heading in terms of your thought process but by using a paint cleaner followed by a polish, you'd actually be working backwards. There's not enough old wax on your car to "gum up" any pad. Plus you should be properly washing and claying your car prior to polishing so this will remove any excessive amounts of wax build up before seeing any machine work.

Just go nuts with your BFGEP and get your LSP ready!

[Toy_Cam_Ed]

Just get out a bottle of Dawn dish soap, wash it, and then clay the car. That will remove most everything.

[Shakabruddah808]

I see where you're heading in terms of your thought process but by using a paint cleaner followed by a polish, you'd actually be working backwards. There's not enough old wax on your car to "gum up" any pad. Plus you should be properly washing and claying your car prior to polishing so this will remove any excessive amounts of wax build up before seeing any machine work.

Just go nuts with your BFGEP and get your LSP ready!

Thanks RoadRage, I was thinking (there I go thinking again) that the claying process would remove most, if not all, of the old waxes. I'll definitely give it a go prior to polishing. My car is nearly a year old and a clay bar has yet to touch it.

Any thoughts on Pinnacle's Poly Clay? I hear that it's ultra fine and will not mar if used correctly. For claying lube I will be using BF rinseless diluted to QD strength.

[RoadRageDetail]

Thanks RoadRage, I was thinking (there I go thinking again) that the claying process would remove most, if not all, of the old waxes. I'll definitely give it a go prior to polishing. My car is nearly a year old and a clay bar has yet to touch it.

Any thoughts on Pinnacle's Poly Clay? I hear that it's ultra fine and will not mar if used correctly. For claying lube I will be using BF rinseless diluted to QD strength.

:xyxthumbs: Any medium to fine grade clay shouldn't leave any marring behind if you're doing it right. I usually put a small amount of wash soap and water in a spray bottle for clay lube and never have problems, and I normally hand wash again after claying a car. I have Griots Garage yellow for softer paints, and Clay Magic for the tougher jobs or harder clears.

[Shakabruddah808]

Just get out a bottle of Dawn dish soap, wash it, and then clay the car. That will remove most everything.

I've read where dozens of people use Dawn as a wax stripper. But alas, I live in a condo with no hose access, and must rely on BF Rinseless wash. It does a great job, BTW. Not as great as a regular bucket wash, but it makes my car positively gleam.

Dawn as a wax stripper. Sounds kinda kinky, dontcha tink? LOL!

[Shakabruddah808]

:xyxthumbs: Any medium to fine grade clay shouldn't leave any marring behind if you're doing it right. I usually put a small amount of wash soap and water in a spray bottle for clay lube and never have problems, and I normally hand wash again after claying a car. I have Griots Garage yellow for softer paints, and Clay Magic for the tougher jobs or harder clears.

Then I'm guessing that the pre-wax cleaners should be used AFTER polishing, and PRIOR to LSP application.

My car is a Honda Fit in white, and the paint is very soft, so I'll be opting for the finest clay I can find (and afford).

I read somewhere that white Fits use a single stage paint. Not sure if it's true or not.

[RoadRageDetail]

Then I'm guessing that the pre-wax cleaners should be used AFTER polishing, and PRIOR to LSP application.

My car is a Honda Fit in white, and the paint is very soft, so I'll be opting for the finest clay I can find (and afford).

I read somewhere that white Fits use a single stage paint. Not sure if it's true or not.

Pre-wax cleaners are not necessary if polishing is involved. The only reason you'd use a cleaner is if you have no plans on paint correction or polishing but you are wanting to completely remove embedded grime and the old LSP's clay won't reach.

If you're looking to use a polish, but want to make sure the surface is free of any oils or residue to enhance the bond from the LSP to the paint surface, then you need to look into something like the Car Pro Eraser.

Most likely your car is single stage and can be sensitive to abrasive methods, so if it were up to me, I'd go straight from polishing to LSP application.

[Setec Astronomy]

Nothing is going to gum up. You can use the Blackfire GEP after washing and then go to your (Blackfire?) LSP. Of course claying is always a good idea--and using a fine clay is a good idea if your car is well maintained.

If your car is single-stage white, it will be hard as a rock due to the titanium dioxide pigment that is used.

[Mike Phillips]

Then I'm guessing that the pre-wax cleaners should be used AFTER polishing, and PRIOR to LSP application.




It's an either/or situation.


You can wash and clay a car and then before waxing use a pre-wax paint cleaner

Or

You can wash and clay and then use a series of compounds and polishes.


Once you get through either of the above it's is then time to seal the paint with something, either a wax, a synthetic paint sealant or a coating.


The point of all the prep products is to prepare the paint for sealing. the paint cleaner, or pre-wax cleaner type products clean the paint really well but don't normally remove "below surface defects" like swirls and scratches.

The compound and polishing products do it all, that is they clean the paint really well to prepare it for sealing by removing some of it evenly over all the panels.


This is where the confusion comes into play... after doing the compounding and polishing steps you do NOT have to come back and use the paint cleaner or pre-wax cleaner because that job is already over with and like mentioned you would be working backwards or making no difference at all.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Check out these two articles,

Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/39020-word-definitions-compounds-polishes-glazes-paint-cleaners-waxes.html)

The benefits of a light paint cleaner, cleansing lotion or pre-wax cleaner (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/28519-benefits-light-paint-cleaner-cleansing-lotion-pre-wax-cleaner.html)



:)

[Mike Phillips]

I read somewhere that white Fits use a single stage paint. Not sure if it's true or not.




Here's that thread,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/52143-coatings-single-stage-paints.html



:)

[Paul Mitchell]

Here's that thread,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/52143-coatings-single-stage-paints.html



:)

If you want to use Griot's products the Paint Prep is used after washing the vehicle during the drying process and would remove the old wax from the vehicle like Dawn does. It's sprayed on then rubbed in while the car is still wet.

the Pre-Wax Cleanser from Griot's is used after polishing similar to what IPA does.