PDA

View Full Version : White Car, Rotary Buffer



eyedrop
06-27-2012, 05:40 PM
Hello everyone, this is my first post. I drive a 2008 Ford Focus coupe in Oxford white. It is a plain white, not pearl or metallic. Anyways, the car sits outside 100% of the time but Ive always detailed it by hand regularly and its looking pretty good and in overall good condition. The paint is slippery and always protected. This list of products I already have and use are Turtle Wax Zip car wash, Meguiars #7 Glaze (my favorite!), Meguiars clay bar kit, Mothers Back to Black, Zaino Z2, Turtle Wax synthetic spray detailer, No Touch tire care, Invisible Glass, ScratchX2.0, Nu Finish Scratch Doctor, microfiber wash sponge, microfiber towels, applicator pads, and 0000 steel wool.

I just got ahold of a rotary buffer from Harbor Freight (not the orbital type or DA but actual rotary). I have never used one before or any polisher. but I have some practice cars Ill be working on before I even touch my car with a tool like this. I have the backing plate but I need some pads. Im confused as to how many pads of which type I need, and exactly how strong of a compound should I use? My main paint defects are:

*Hard water spots and etches that scratchx2.0 would not remove by hand.

*Grungy contaminated paint, especially by the wheel wells. Seems like its deep down in the pores or beneath the clear coat. Do I need a paint cleaner or will a buffer and compound or polish take care of this?

* Spider web swirls and medium scratches

* Paint chips

* Water spots on glass, not even Invisible Glass, CLR, or #0000 steel wool would remove. They look deep down and type 2. Makes me wonder about the water spots in the paint...

My car already looks better than 95% of cars on the road. The finish has a very high gloss thanks to the Meguiars Show Car Glaze #7 (which also fills the water spot defects temporarily). The surface is smooth and slippery thanks to the clay bar and ICE quick detailer.

But Ive noticed that -brand new- white cars and rich lawyer cars have such a bright and clear white to them that it almost hurts your eyes when you look at them in the sun, and there is no slight grey or brown tint. My car was like that new but I think I need a good solvent or acid to deep clean the paint and make it super white again, like the true color of the base coat. Will a buffer and compound correct this or should I buy a product such as the Pinnacle paint cleanser, Turtle Wax color back, Meguiars Deep Crystal paint cleaner, etc...? What will it take to remove my deep down water spots that have been baking there for years? What pads do I need for my rotary buffer, how harsh should my chemicals be for my level of correction? It is a 7" polisher.

And I hope I dont get slammed for using Turtle Wax products. I noticed they are looked down upon in the pro detailing world. But from my experience and what people say is its 90% in the technique and and prep, 10% in the product. Ive used cheap dollar store stuff with good results. Just follow the instructions on the bottle and use all the little tricks like 2 bucket, no sunlight, top to bottom, clean microfibers, etc... and you should be looking good.

Sorry about the long and cluttered first post but this whole machine polishing thing is new to me. I can't wait to get some pads and start practicing on my buddies red Toyota Solara with a badly neglected paint job. He literally hasn't washed or waxed his car in 2 years(!)
I dont really care about brand names as long as it works and is a good value. I am not looking to spend any more than I have to. Thank you.

eyedrop
06-27-2012, 06:21 PM
And as far as my friend, his paint needs something much stronger Id imagine. Its all faded and scratched up bad, feels dry. What pads and chemicals do you suggest for this severe job? The defects listed in the first post were pertaining to my personal vehicle.

BobbyG
06-27-2012, 06:44 PM
This information should help you understand pad, product, and corresponding defect..

Compounds such as Meguiar's M105 are mostly used with heavy cut pads for removing severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches

Polishes such as Meguiar's M205 perform well with light cutting and finishing pads for removing light swirls and very fine scratches.

Sealants and Waxes are easily applied using a blue or red foam pad

A bit of information on pad usage....

Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Coarse Green Cutting/Polishing - This foam is of medium density with the ability to level very fine scratches and very light oxidation. Use light swirl removers with this pad.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Green Polishing/Finishing Foam - Use this foam to apply one-step cleaner waxes. It is a balance of polishing and finishing that is perfect for all-in-one product application.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.

Red Ultra-soft Wax/Sealant Foam - This soft, imported foam is ideal for applying the final coat of wax or sealant. The foam works especially well when applying liquid waxes or sealants because it is firm enough to keep the majority of the product on the paint, rather than soaking it up. The red foam has no cut or cleaning ability.

Super Soft Gold Jewelling Foam - The CCS Super Soft Gold Jewelling Pad is made of Lake Country's softest foam. Use the gold pad to apply a very fine polish or glaze as the final step of the polishing process. Jewelling is the term coined for this step because it intensifies gloss and reflectivity, like a jewel. The gold foam pad also works well for wax and sealant application.

Products

Wash - Duragloss #901 (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-car-wash-concentrate.html)
Clay - Mothers (http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcla.html)
Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-powergloss-compound.html) (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-polish-po203.html) (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-nano-polish-po-106-fa-finishing-polish.html) (PO106FA)
Sealant -


Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-polish-bonding-agent.html)
Duragloss 105 TPP (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-total-performance-polish.html)

eyedrop
06-28-2012, 03:20 PM
Could I just buy a compound, orange pad, and paint cleaner get the defects out, then do the whole Zaino process and top it off with the #7 glaze for the extra gloss? Or should I really use the machine for the entire polishing process including the finishing touches? Is it worth getting the softer finishing pads if Im working with the rotary buffer?

Should the process be like this?:
wash real good with dawn
clay real good
Paint cleaner
compound
dawn wash
zaino z2
Megs #7 glaze
then maybe a coat of z2 over #7

Are these steps in the correct order? Should I really be doing the polishing and finishing with the machine? I dont think zaino is for machine use but I already have some. Just trying to work with what I have already.

eyedrop
06-28-2012, 05:26 PM
Just got the polisher. Turns out it came with a white foam pad, a polishing bonnet, and backing plate. I read the instructions and it just says to apply wax to the pad and start buffing. It dosent say what kind of wax to use or how abrasive the pad is. Im assuming its like a normal white pad. Is the polishing bonnet useful?