cleaning up an old cadillac

[durant113]

I recently bought a cadillac brougham d'elegance from a family member for $50. The car is in great shape no rust and has been kept in a machine shed covered up for the last 20 years. The paint, I assume is a single stage maroon color. It does not seem to shine like it probably did when new. I want to try and bring it back but, having never worked on a single stage I don't know the best approach. On my last order I got some Meg's #7 after reading an article where Mr. Phillips used it on an older yellow Lincoln. Should I clay first, then the #7, polish, wax. I read where you leave the #7 on for a bit to let is "soak" the paint before doing any correction. Any advice would be welcome since I have limited experience.

[Bill1234]

You will definately know if it is single stage if you wipe the car and there is color coming off. If you want to restore gloss, use meguiars ultimate compound on a finishing disc. I reccommed using that or Ibiz waterless wax which is more of a spray wax, but has restoration properties. Hopefully you can make it look like it was used in Goodfellas lol.

[Blackthorn One]

You should definitely use #7 if it is single stage paint. The first coat overnight and then 3 or 4 more coats I think he said. Wash, clay, #7, polish, maybe glaze, then wax.

[BillyJack]

Should I clay first, then the #7, polish, wax. I read where you leave the #7 on for a bit to let is "soak" the paint before doing any correction. Any advice would be welcome since I have limited experience.
I've done the process a few times and Mike's article is the "gospel" for SS paint restoration IMO. I've saved a few cars that were about to be written off as beyond repair. Just follow the steps: clean, clay, saturate with #7, then correct as needed, finishing with your LSP of choice. With regard to the "soak", it's most important on the first application, but can also be done on subsequent apps. My favorite way is do a rub after work on 3-4 consecutive days, allowing each one to soak in overnight. You'll find eventually there will be diminishing returns, meaning the paint will not absorb as much product as the previous apps, so you know you have fed the paint with about as much product as it can absorb. Once you've suitably moisturized the paint, then do whatever correction is necessary. I like to do one more quick rub with #7 once all correction is done, but it's not really necessary, especially if you do a final polish with M80 Speed Glaze, as it has a similar oil content. All I can add to Mike's tutorial is to be patient and don't be afraid to use some "passion", as Mike says, in the rubs of #7.
Look at the burgundy paint of the El Camino in my avatar. It's 25 year-old original lacquer, has about every paint defect known to man, but still has a heckuva shine, thanks to Mike and M07.

Bill

[durant113]

Thanks for the input, I am going to try and get some before and after pics, hopefully get the clay and #7 done tonight. The only fine polish I have is some Groits #3 and I also have a big bottle of XMT 360, which would be most gentle, I intend on using a green ccs pad.