Iron-X For OC2.0 Prep

[Whiplash Willy]

I am planning my Opti-Coat 2.0 Prep for my 2 month old 2012 VW Golf

Here is my current OC2.0 Prep:

1. Wash and use OPC for the tough areas
2. Clay
3. Light Polish if necessary
4. CarPro Eraser
5. Opti-Coat2.0

I ran across people talking about Iron-X. I am thinking of adding this to my OC2.0 prep.

Is it really necessary to use Iron-X for my prep, or am I wasting my time/money? If I do use Iron-X, should I use it before or after Claying?

Also, what is a good sponge to use for Iron-X?

[HDDetail]

I hear Iron x removes rail dust and iron deposits that clay bar cant remove. Never hurts to have it too clean. If not you could be trapping in the deposits with your wax.

[Whiplash Willy]

I hear Iron x removes rail dust and iron deposits that clay bar cant remove. Never hurts to have it too clean. If not you could be trapping in the deposits with your wax.

Thats what I am thinking. Also, this car was built in Germany, and was transported by rail to the port, and others have reported rail dust contamination on new VW Golfs from the factory....

The Iron-X instructions say:

2. Shake well, spray on the surface. Rub it in with damp sponge thoroughly.
Wait 5 min. while contaminants change its color to purple/red. Wipe off with damp soft sponge. Don’t let the IronX dry completely on surface!

Can anyone recommend a sponge to use for this?

[bmwgalore]

Yes, you should.

It will remove particles that clay alone won't do..
It also makes the claying process 1000 times faster and easier, allowing you to use a milder clay, reducing risk of marring the paint!

There are many delivery systems for IronX: Snow soap, spray bottle, wash soap, paste. Your case the wash soap version would be perfect.
Use a dedicated wash mitt, I've been using the $6 Meguiars mitt, it works great.

[TimmyG]

I would absolutely add a decontamination step to your OC prep. Iron X is great and should make your claying step that much easier.

[wysiwyg]

I hear Iron x removes rail dust and iron deposits that clay bar cant remove. Never hurts to have it too clean. If not you could be trapping in the deposits with your wax.

I can confirm Iron X does indeed remove rail dust. I worked on a white BWM which had a good amount of rail dust on the trunk and top of the car.

I tried claying it first with little improvement. I used Iron X (spray and gel). I found the Iron X spray to work better and it was much easier to use than the gel. I used Iron X on the entire car and not just the areas affected by the rail dust. It removed nearly all the rail dust (99%) fairly easily. I only had a couple of spots where the rail dust remained which I followed up with clay.

Prior to the Iron X treatment, the paint felt like sandpaper.

The paint after the Iron X treatment was so clean and smooth, I did not see the need to clay any additional areas other then the couple of areas mentioned above.

[TimmyG]

Iron X is a MUST on any light colored vehicle imho.

[wysiwyg]

Thats what I am thinking. Also, this car was built in Germany, and was transported by rail to the port, and others have reported rail dust contamination on new VW Golfs from the factory....

The Iron-X instructions say:

2. Shake well, spray on the surface. Rub it in with damp sponge thoroughly.
Wait 5 min. while contaminants change its color to purple/red. Wipe off with damp soft sponge. Don’t let the IronX dry completely on surface!

Can anyone recommend a sponge to use for this?

Since I was applying Iron X to the entire car, I washed the car first to remove all the dirt and d. I then applied Iron X (I dried the car prior to application) and let it work for a few minutes. I used a foam pad to agitate the areas which had the most rail dust. I then washed it again (with the Iron X still on) using a microfiber mitt and rinsed thoroughly.

I was careful to not let the Iron X dry.

[embolism]

to get maximum benefit from the IX, wash and dry the car first so as not to dilute the IX too much.

You can agitate the panel after the dwell time has elapsed (I use an old sheepskin washpad that is falling apart anyway) and it will keep working (I think they add a bit of soap for lube b/c the stuff suds up a bit once you start agitating it).

As long as you are not in the sun, you should be fine. Rinse it off well, then clay the car while wet. If you use a rinseless as your lube, you can dry as you clay...

[Whiplash Willy]

Yes, you should.

It will remove particles that clay alone won't do..
It also makes the claying process 1000 times faster and easier, allowing you to use a milder clay, reducing risk of marring the paint!

There are many delivery systems for IronX: Snow soap, spray bottle, wash soap, paste. Your case the wash soap version would be perfect.
Use a dedicated wash mitt, I've been using the $6 Meguiars mitt, it works great.

Why would the soap gel be better then the spray bottle?

What about Tar-X, or would that be redundant, since I will be claying to remove organic contaminants?

Also, I have a bunch of those small green microfiber applicators. Would those be ok to use as a sponge (If I use the spray?)

[embolism]

soap gel is less concentrated than the spray and is more for maintenance.

Go with the spray or if you don't mind spreading with an applicator, the gel. It is even stronger than the spray.