d300 vs m105

[s500]

how would you compare the d300 to m105, i have m105 but haven't been having luck removing swirls with on a mercedes which i think has hard paint. would d300 be more user friendly with similar results.

[KillaCam]

I'm also wondering this. I know some people mix d300 with m105 and it's supposed to have good cut with longer working times.

[maximus20895]

I would say M105 is harder to work with, but is more aggressive.

[HotWhipT/A]

M105 is more aggressive. It also dusts a lot more.

Maybe try M105 with a MF pad and medium to heavy pressure with your DA

[Danube]

IMO 105 is the hardest compound to work with, short working time, dusting a lot, and leaves cemented dots on the paint - which are next to impossible to remove.

D300 has a bit less cut but pleasure to work with.

;-)

[gmck]

IMO 105 is the hardest compound to work with, short working time, dusting a lot, and leaves cemented dots on the paint

One would have to wonder what you are doing wrong to come up with that statement.

M105 is the best there is for what it was designed for. You just need to know how to use it. Try the KBM and you'll never have the need to try anything else.

Question - why do you want a long working time with a compound. Compounds are meant to remove swirls etc quickly. I don't get it - why would you want to take more passes to remove a swirl or a scratch as against less passes? Defeats the purpose of a compound.

Dusting.. What do you expect with a compound? So now we have all these so called compounds that don't dust as much as M105 - problem is they don't cut either. Examples that come to mind, Optimum Compound and D300. I don't understand the big deal about dusting and compounding. If you are removing heavy swirling etc, then you are going to be washing the vehicle multiple times before you get to jewelling the paint, the dust goes with the washing so who cares about some dust during the compounding stage.

Then again if you use M105 correctly (see my other posts and other's posts) the dusting doesn't really happen if you use M105 correctly.

Cement spots.. - can't say I've ever seen them and I've used gallons of the stuff on all sorts of paints. I hope you realize that M105 is water soluble, therefore all you ever need when wiping the residue is a wet/damp mf. Wash away the residue, don't dry wipe it away. Search my other posts for a more detailed explanation - they explain the M105 (KBM) technique.

[bmwgalore]

One would have to wonder what you are doing wrong to come up with that statement.

M105 is the best there is for what it was designed for. You just need to know how to use it. Try the KBM and you'll never have the need to try anything else.

Question - why do you want a long working time with a compound. Compounds are meant to remove swirls etc quickly. I don't get it - why would you want to take more passes to remove a swirl or a scratch as against less passes? Defeats the purpose of a compound.

Dusting.. What do you expect with a compound? So now we have all these so called compounds that don't dust as much as M105 - problem is they don't cut either. Examples that come to mind, Optimum Compound and D300. I don't understand the big deal about dusting and compounding. If you are removing heavy swirling etc, then you are going to be washing the vehicle multiple times before you get to jewelling the paint, the dust goes with the washing so who cares about some dust during the compounding stage.

Then again if you use M105 correctly (see my other posts and other's posts) the dusting doesn't really happen if you use M105 correctly.

Cement spots.. - can't say I've ever seen them and I've used gallons of the stuff on all sorts of paints. I hope you realize that M105 is water soluble, therefore all you ever need when wiping the residue is a wet/damp mf. Wash away the residue, don't dry wipe it away. Search my other posts for a more detailed explanation - they explain the M105 (KBM) technique.


Agree with this guy!

Most people who complain about 105 simply don't know how to use it.. you can't use the same techniques from another brands of compound with 105 because it works in a different way.

Meguiars 105 is the best, but most users don't know what they are doing.

[DARK HORSE]

One would have to wonder what you are doing wrong to come up with that statement.

M105 is the best there is for what it was designed for. You just need to know how to use it. Try the KBM and you'll never have the need to try anything else.

Question - why do you want a long working time with a compound. Compounds are meant to remove swirls etc quickly. I don't get it - why would you want to take more passes to remove a swirl or a scratch as against less passes? Defeats the purpose of a compound.

Dusting.. What do you expect with a compound? So now we have all these so called compounds that don't dust as much as M105 - problem is they don't cut either. Examples that come to mind, Optimum Compound and D300. I don't understand the big deal about dusting and compounding. If you are removing heavy swirling etc, then you are going to be washing the vehicle multiple times before you get to jewelling the paint, the dust goes with the washing so who cares about some dust during the compounding stage.

Then again if you use M105 correctly (see my other posts and other's posts) the dusting doesn't really happen if you use M105 correctly.

Cement spots.. - can't say I've ever seen them and I've used gallons of the stuff on all sorts of paints. I hope you realize that M105 is water soluble, therefore all you ever need when wiping the residue is a wet/damp mf. Wash away the residue, don't dry wipe it away. Search my other posts for a more detailed explanation - they explain the M105 (KBM) technique.

:iagree:GREAT post, very accurate!!!

[SeaJay's]

M105 can be a pain to work with if you don't know how to use it. As gmck stated it's a great product when used correctly. The dusting can be a pita, but if your washing after the compounding stage then it's no that big of a deal.

D300 is definitely easier to work with but doesn't have as much cut as the 105.

[richy]

I heard some hack that nobody knows posted a video on here with some tips on how to use it with better results...if only I could find it...

[NFA]

OP, what pads are you using? What's your technique? You won't get much more aggressive of a compound then M105. Unless you can find M101.

Too often many people get caught up on using a very aggressive compounds when they do not need to. Most cars I do now a days, even the ones with rock hard clears, I can correct down with D300 with the MF pads. Just have to work them slow with moderate to heavy pressures. I only bring out M101 on the heavily swirled areas or small sections I wetsand down.

[RZJZA80]

If you are trying to use 105 the same way as 205, you will have a lot of trouble on your hands. 105 is meant to have a short working time, and a quick cut. Why anyone would want a long working time with a compound is beyond me. That just tells me they don't know the differences between compounding and polishing.

105 has more cut than D300. D300 is better suited to MF pads, as least for me. 105 can work on anything, and you will get dusting, that's just how it is.

[Theo_Auto_Fines]

Thus the invention of M101 rectifies all the problems that the M105 had.

[BradsDetailing]

can anyone shed some light on m105 and how to use it?

[cardaddy]

M105 doesn't really dust, as it doesn't have a long enough working cycle to do so. It may ball up when using it too long, or it may be hard to remove. As the SMAT particles get covered up with paint that is being removed you can end up with larger particles than you started with. That's not dusting, that's paint!

Working with 105 has to be quick and to the point. One smooth section pass and remove it while it's still wet. IF you are LUCKY you'll get 2 section passes, but that's pushing it. Can't do the same thing you would with Ultimate Compound and especially not like a DAT compound that you 'work down'.

Someone mentioned 100, and that's an option. Sometimes its a matter of priming the pad with a compound that works longer, for pad lubricity, then using the short working compound in pea sized drops to do the cutting. IE, prime with 100/101/UC then use 105 drops to get the cutting done. Not sure I'd mix D300 with 105 though as they are drastically different, more so than UC and 105 I'd say.

D151 conditioning crème though is really nice and will work just great. It'll work with foam forever, and does also work with MF pads. (Although my experience with it and MF pads is limited.) Remember that when you work ANYTHING with MF pads that you want to add a point or two to the "cut factor" because the MF pads have so much more cut than foam ones do.