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forte2.4
06-05-2012, 12:01 PM
I am new to detailing. My problem is this: I have a red truck that was repainted 2yrs.ago.
It had a very bad haze, but meg swrilX took care of that. But in doing so, it left a lot of paint
on the white pad using my DA. I also have some spots about the size of a dime that are
still there...sooo I used Pennicle swril remover on a small section, the pad was red again
and the spots are still there. I beginning to think there is no clear coat, or the clear coat is
red. How can I know if there is a clear coat or not? It makes me a little nervous to see all that red on my pad. How do I rid myself of the spots?

Question #2. I have a 2003 G35 silver grey paint. I have water spots that won't go away.
They are not very noticeable until you look real hard under the lights, then you can see them.
I used Pennicle Swril by hand and it didn't do a thing. I am reluctant to use the DA on it
until I can remove them by hand first.The truck is different, it's kind of my test vehicle.
What am I doing wrong in both instances? Thanks

BobbyG
06-05-2012, 12:39 PM
I am new to detailing. My problem is this: I have a red truck that was repainted 2yrs.ago. It had a very bad haze, but meg swrilX took care of that. But in doing so, it left a lot of paint on the white pad using my DA.

I also have some spots about the size of a dime that are still there...sooo I used Pennicle swril remover on a small section, the pad was red again and the spots are still there. I beginning to think there is no clear coat, or the clear coat is red. How can I know if there is a clear coat or not? It makes me a little nervous to see all that red on my pad. How do I rid myself of the spots?

Some clear coats are tinted but by your description I suspect it may not be. If the clear is only tinted you'll normally have lite or trace amounts of color on the pad or towel.

A single stage finish will literally turn the pad the same color as the finish. If you're seeing a lot f red then I suspect this is a single stage color cost only...

A photo or two showing the actual defect would be of great help....:props:


Question #2. I have a 2003 G35 silver grey paint. I have water spots that won't go away.
They are not very noticeable until you look real hard under the lights, then you can see them. I used Pennicle Swril by hand and it didn't do a thing. I am reluctant to use the DA on it until I can remove them by hand first.The truck is different, it's kind of my test vehicle.
What am I doing wrong in both instances? Thanks

I would first try it again but this time with a white foam pad on your dual action polisher. The clear on some of these tend to be quite hard and you may not have made much progress by hand.

Here's some great information by Mike Phillips that will help you if you need it.


Sectional Pass With a DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/24074-show-car-garage-video-how-do-section-pass-when-machine-polishing-da-polisher.html)
Removing Swirls (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/20021-definitive-how-article-removing-swirls-scratches-water-spots-using-porter-cable-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html)
DA Trouble Shooting Guide (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37769-da-polisher-trouble-shooting-guide.html)
Waxing With a DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pinnacle-wax/28651-how-machine-apply-wax-using-da-polisher.html)
How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/35292-how-prime-foam-pad-when-using-da-polisher.html)
DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/questions-about-porter-cable-7424xp-7424-7336-griot-s-meguiar-s-dual-action-polishers/38399-da-polisher-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html)
How to MAXIMIZE your DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27166-how-maximize-your-da-polisher.html)


What other compound and polishes do you have on hand?

Mike Phillips
06-05-2012, 02:00 PM
I am new to detailing. My problem is this: I have a red truck that was repainted 2yrs.ago. It had a very bad haze, but meg SwirlX took care of that. But in doing so, it left a lot of paint on the white pad using my DA. I also have some spots about the size of a dime that are still there...sooo I used Pinnacle swirl remover on a small section, the pad was red again and the spots are still there.



Sounds like single stage paint that has oxidized. Single stage paint can get water spots that are faded and are "in" the paint, not just on the paint.

See my article here,

3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/33499-3-types-water-spots-type-i-type-ii-type-iii.html)

Type III Water Spots
Type III Water Spots are spots that look faded or dull and are found primarily found on single stage paints after a water source lands on and then pools on the paint and is usually left to dwell on the surface for some measure of time before it evaporates or is wiped-off the surface.

Modern clear coat paints tend to be harder and impermeable, that is non-porous, so liquids don't penetrated easily and thus stain spots tend to be topical, that is only affect the very upper surface and are easier and safer to remove with a compound or polish.

Older single stage paints tend to be soft and permeable, or porous, it's common for liquids to penetrate into the paint and stain the paint below the surface. Removing stains out of single stage paints can be risky because in order to remove the stains you have to abrade the paint and if the stains penetrated deep then you risk removing too much in an effort to try to remove them completely.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/TypeIIIWaterSpots.jpg







I beginning to think there is no clear coat, or the clear coat is
red. How can I know if there is a clear coat or not? It makes me a little nervous to see all that red on my pad. How do I rid myself of the spots?



From my article list...

How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/34829-how-test-single-stage-clear-coat-paint.html)

To test for a single stage paint, try to find a light colored or white polish if you're working on any kind of pigmented paint. If you're testing white paint then try to use a polish with a color to it and a dark colored cloth, (so you can confirm that you're removing white paint and not just seeing the color of the paint).
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1084/56StarCheif039.jpg


Use an ample amount for plenty of lubrication as you're going to want to push firmly if no oxidation is present as was the case with the finish on the classic car.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1084/56StarCheif040.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1084/56StarCheif041.jpg



Confirmed, we're working on a single stage paint... also note the heavier accumulation were my fingers pressed down with the most pressure... this is because you can exert more pressure to the small area of your finger tips than you can with your entire hand, you can use this to work for you or cause problems depending upon what you're trying to do...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1084/56StarCheif042.jpg


:)



Question #2. I have a 2003 G35 silver grey paint. I have water spots that won't go away.

They are not very noticeable until you look real hard under the lights, then you can see them. I used Pinnacle Swirl by hand and it didn't do a thing. I am reluctant to use the DA on it until I can remove them by hand first.The truck is different, it's kind of my test vehicle.

What am I doing wrong in both instances? Thanks[/QUOTE]


There's a real art form to working on clear coat paints by hand in an effort to actually "remove" a below surface defect while not instilling scratches at the same time.

To be honest it's faster to work by machine and takes a lot less skill. Fire up your DA Polisher with a foam cutting or polishing pad and the Pinnacle Swirl Remover and before you buff, place a strip of painter's tape on the paint so you can EASILY tell if you're making progress or not.


If you have not already done so, please read the below article,

How To Do a Test Spot (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html)

Here's an excerpt...


Tape Line
It helps to place a piece of painter's tape on a horizontal surface, usually the hood or trunk lid but if you want to be more discreet you can use the roof. Then only work on one side of the tape line as this will make it very easy for you to see visual changes due to the distinct demarcation line between before and after results.


Tape-line using 3M Green Painter's Tape
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/TapeLine02.jpg


Before and after results along the demarcation line
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1422/FlexVideo005.jpg


:xyxthumbs:

forte2.4
06-06-2012, 02:42 PM
Mike, Thanks for your reply....Thats exactly how my red finish looks!!