Optimum spray wax over Liquid Souveran wax

[jyu1210]

I'm about to order my first bottle of ONR and Optimum Spray wax. But I was wondering if its ok to use the spray wax right after the ONR when I recently (about last week) coated my car with Pinnacle Liquid Souveran wax. Will the spray wax work well with the current coat of wax?

[Vegas Transplant]

I've used OCW on a vehicle with 180 as previous lsp with great results. Have no clue about liq. souveran.

[faulksy]

It will be fine. Usually only need to worry about decent curing time when using a detailer like Dodo Juice Red Mist as the solvents will degrade existing wax if not cured long enough. The polymers ONR will never cause bonding issues and can even be painted over.

[swanicyouth]

I've put Optimum Wax on on P21S, Dodo, Opti Coat, Liq Sovereign, etc... You won't have a problem. However, the one thing I find with OCW is its slightly tricky on dark or black cars. You need 2 thick MF towels: one to spread it out and buff it, and one for a final buff. Also, on my car it "sweats" sometimes and may need a quick buff later. This is on a black, shiny car that I'm very picky about. That using it on top of another wax, basically not how it was intended to be used.
.... That being said OCW is an awesome, amazing product. It's worth 4x the price. It looks awesome and a bottle lasts a long time. It's easy to use and a coat lasts a long time. It may just require another moment of work on a dark car.

[Mike Phillips]

Actually, regardless of any bonding issues, (if any?), the major benefit to the Optimum Car Wax is its UV inhibitors and you want these to come into direct contact with the paint so they can bond to it and according to Optimum, migrate into the paint, at least to some level.

I'm a big fan of OCW for the above reasons and because in my job and in my life I deal with a lot of people that own cars that suffer from Clear Coat Failure.


The Clearcoat Failure Photo Gallery Archive (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/rough-draft/19985-clearcoat-failure-photo-gallery-archive.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/724/ClearcoatFailure001.jpg



Beginning Clearcoat Failure (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/29197-beginning-clearcoat-failure.html)

Photos Courtesy of MeguiarsOnline
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2600_8_30_06OG003.JPG




IF your car is always parked outside because either you don't have a garage or carport to shield it from the sun or because a more important vehicle is in the garage or carport then you want the OCW "on" the paint, not on a coating on the paint.

I'm the last guy to get into the entire topic of "bonding" except what I wrote in this article,

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31186-miscible-immiscible-wax-paint-sealant-bonding.html)


But the effects of UV rays on everything, including you and I are real and for this reason if you're going to use OCW then get it onto the paint, not onto a coating on the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/OPTCarWaxUVP.jpg




Make sense?


:xyxthumbs:

[Bigbull2984]

OCW looks pretty promising. I have really stupid question on the UV protection, I thought all waxes and sealants had UV protection.

[Mike Phillips]

OCW looks pretty promising. I have really stupid question on the UV protection, I thought all waxes and sealants had UV protection.

I'm sure many do, at least those that state they do. The thing I like is Dr. David Ghodoussi is a real chemist that worked on creating the actual clear paint on your car. If he's smart enough to make the paint, seems like he's more than qualified to make the wax that goes on the paint. In fact I believe this enough that when asked to write his TV commercial I said something similar in the commercial.



Optimum Polymer Technologies


Optimum Polymer..."..." target="_blank">Optimum Polymer..."...




:xyxthumbs:

[mwoolfso]

OCW looks pretty promising. I have really stupid question on the UV protection, I thought all waxes and sealants had UV protection.

How much UV protection do you really need from a sacrificial layer? I believe some clearcoats have UV protection these days. My suggestion, don't over-analyze this piece of the detailing pie.

I do look for UV protection in a sealant. As the car ages (5+ years) I would be more selective about the products I put on my paint (more UV protection is likely required). Also, if I was not maintaining a vehicle on a regular basis, UV protection trends towards "mandatory" if paint protection is a priority.

[Largebore]

It will be fine. Usually only need to worry about decent curing time when using a detailer like Dodo Juice Red Mist as the solvents will degrade existing wax if not cured long enough. The polymers ONR will never cause bonding issues and can even be painted over.


Very interesting.
I just used the Dodo Juice Mist and it stripped off my carnuba and any remaining glaze and I was left with a shiny surface but all of the minor imperfections and scratches seemed to magically re-appear.

[Vegas Transplant]

Actually, regardless of any bonding issues, (if any?), the major benefit to the Optimum Car Wax is its UV inhibitors and you want these to come into direct contact with the paint so they can bond to it and according to Optimum, migrate into the paint, at least to some level.


IF your car is always parked outside because either you don't have a garage or carport to shield it from the sun or because a more important vehicle is in the garage or carport then you want the OCW "on" the paint, not on a coating on the paint.

But the effects of UV rays on everything, including you and I are real and for this reason if you're going to use OCW then get it onto the paint, not onto a coating on the paint.

Make sense?


:xyxthumbs:

Just when I thought I had researched and had most of my questions answered.
I've read about the migration of OCW/OOS but not concerning the coating... Oh well, another trip to the Optimum forums.

[Mike Phillips]

How much UV protection do you really need from a sacrificial layer? I believe some clearcoats have UV protection these days.

My suggestion, don't over-analyze this piece of the detailing pie.



I agree. I'm a strong advocate of not turning washing and waxing a car into rocket science.



I do look for UV protection in a sealant. As the car ages (5+ years) I would be more selective about the products I put on my paint (more UV protection is likely required). Also, if I was not maintaining a vehicle on a regular basis, UV protection trends towards "mandatory" if paint protection is a priority.


My comment would be if the car in question is NEVER parked or somehow stored under a cover away from the suns rays, AND you live in a geographical location of intense sun, (I do), then like I always post,

Something is better than nothing

And by this I mean that "yes" the factory clear layer of paint comes with UV inhibitors and the idea is there's enough that as long as normal maintenance is performed then the paint job should last for most of the service life of the car give or take a few years depending upon where a person lives and actual care and maintenance of the clear coat.

That said, Dr. David Ghodoussi also told me that the UV inhibitors that are used in the factory clear and I'm guessing this would apply to aftermarket clear, (body shop paint jobs), have a half life of 5 years.

That means in 5 years, half of the factory UV inhibitors have stopped performing their function.

Again, how important this is to anyone depends on,


Where they live
Whether or not the car is constantly exposed to the sun


Where I live in Stuart, Florida, all a person has to do is look at all the new or "modern" cars in any store parking lot and you can easily see that the sun in not your car's friend.


:)

[faulksy]

Very interesting.
I just used the Dodo Juice Mist and it stripped off my carnuba and any remaining glaze and I was left with a shiny surface but all of the minor imperfections and scratches seemed to magically re-appear.

I assume it was a fresh layer of glaze and wax then?
I myself have never had an issue but I've never topped my wax until at least a few weeks after application. I use OCW, DJ RMT and CG V7 at home depending on what I'm after. It's a bit of a shame DJ RM can be applied immediately as its certainly my choice for car shows. I always prep days and not weeks before a show.

[faulksy]

.... That being said OCW is an awesome, amazing product. It's worth 4x the price. It looks awesome and a bottle lasts a long time. It's easy to use and a coat lasts a long time.

Could agree more. It's far cheaper than my V7 and RMT but certainly do not rate it inferior to either of them. I have considered other spray waxes but they are usually twice the cost

[mwoolfso]

I used the 5-year marker to avoid getting into the half-life aspect. Didn't want to overwhelm the originator of the thread.

And, I agree Mike that location has to be taken into account. I neglected to stress that.

[Ohio Detailing]

Hi guys, I have been using Optimum Spray wax for well over a year now, been through an entire gallon and have enjoyed it so far... but yesterday I was detailing a gorgeous repainted 1969 Camaro SS, black, and it streaked like I was using a sharpie. It was so bad, I stopped using it, because one of the owners was nearby, and it looked horrendous, literally terrible. I started going over it with Meg's Synthetic Spray detailer just to try and remove the streaking.

Two things struck me as odd:
1. The paint was not only in amazing shape, but I had double washed it, removed all water spots, applied a carnauba paste wax by hand buffing it off entirely, and the spray wax still streaked. Any thoughts?
2. There were very small white globules of what I assume to be wax in my clear heavy duty spray bottle floating around in the Optimum Spray Wax solution, I violently shook the bottle over and over, but they just didn't dissolve!

Help fellas :)