New detailer with first big paid job need some opinions

[Morphiusrt]

I have my first real paid correction job coming up and I really want to impress the client.

Vehicle:
2005 Nissan 350z magnetic black neglected by previous owner

I don't have any issues with the correction process. I have D300, M205 and M105 so I'm just going to test and see what works.

My question is on the steps to follow.

I want to give him the best shine and protection possible. So here's my list:

CG EZ glaze (never tried it so any pointers would be great)
CG BL
CG JS 109
V7
PB PWS
D151
Pete's 53'
NXT tech wax liquid
Meg gold carnauba plus paste
Meg UQW

I was thinking
EZ glaze, 109, V7

I am very open to suggestions. And if you think there is something I should really pick up please let me know.

For now I am stuck with what I have for this job because it's on Saturday.

[Morphiusrt]

Bump

[TimmyG]

I just completed a friends 2008 350z recently. Corrected it using the DA MF kit. I used the 5" MF cutting discs with M105/D300 mix (to prolong the working time). Was able to basically one step it. The D300/M105 combo finished down even nicer than expected. Since the car is a daily driver during the spring/summer months, he wanted me to just wax it but I told him I'd take good care of her!

Followed the correction step up with Blacklight via PC7424XP as a paint cleanser/prep step. Car was given one coat of swissvax concorso then topped with V7 for extreme gloss.

Car came out fantastic. My buddy kept insisting that he pay me, but he's been a really good friend of mine for several years. It was by far the best gloss results I've personally ever achieved. Wish I would've taken some photos..

[Vegas Transplant]

Why not go with the tried and true.
Was a thread (post?) here recently of a Mercury Marauder owner that used a top rated product that he was unfamiliar with just prior to a car show...with undesirable results.

Either get familiar with the process you are planning ...or go tried and true. Your rep is on the line.

My two cents.

[Morphiusrt]

I just completed a friends 2008 350z recently. Corrected it using the DA MF kit. I used the 5" MF cutting discs with M105/D300 mix (to prolong the working time). Was able to basically one step it. The D300/M105 combo finished down even nicer than expected. Since the car is a daily driver during the spring/summer months, he wanted me to just wax it but I told him I'd take good care of her!

Followed the correction step up with Blacklight via PC7424XP as a paint cleanser/prep step. Car was given one coat of swissvax concorso then topped with V7 for extreme gloss.

Car came out fantastic. My buddy kept insisting that he pay me, but he's been a really good friend of mine for several years. It was by far the best gloss results I've personally ever achieved. Wish I would've taken some photos..

Are you saying you mixed d300 & m105 on the same pad? Details please, I am very intrigued.

When I did my friends S2000, some of the deeper stuff I had to put some real work on the foam pad with M205 (didn't have M105 at the time) but I never thought of mixing it.

I feel like BL isn't giving a deep wet look like I see on here. Could just be the pics I guess. Feels awesome and looks great I guess I just want more!!! lol



Why not go with the tried and true.
Was a thread (post?) here recently of a Mercury Marauder owner that used a top rated product that he was unfamiliar with just prior to a car show...with undesirable results.

Either get familiar with the process you are planning ...or go tried and true. Your rep is on the line.

My two cents.

I've used all of the products besides the glaze and M105 and have had very good results I just didn't know if there was any combo that might be better then the other.

[Vegas Transplant]

I was just suggesting that since you have the correction process down, then you should find time to acclimate to the glaze, or just use what's on your list that has given great results in the past.
Judging from your thread title, this job means more to you than previous jobs.

[Mazda.Mark]

Correct on the combo

Using 2 dots of d300 and 2 dots of 105 has been a great fusion for detailers!

[SeaJay's]

I'd hit it with the D300 and see how it finishes out. If you have the MF system I've found that a lot of times the D300 finishes LSP ready.

If it doesn't finish out the way you want it, follow up with the M205 and then top it with whatever LSP you wish.

The glaze will help hide any defects in the paint, but will wash off eventually. So, ensure you have a perfect surface prior to applying (do an IPA wipe down or similar).

You also have my number so feel free to give me a call.

[topdawg57]

I read a post from the DI site by a the pro from the site he mixed 1 part d300 to 3parts m105 .He mainly stated about the dusting issue from 105 but if you get longer working time thats a plus.

[TimmyG]

I'd hit it with the D300 and see how it finishes out. If you have the MF system I've found that a lot of times the D300 finishes LSP ready.

If it doesn't finish out the way you want it, follow up with the M205 and then top it with whatever LSP you wish.

The glaze will help hide any defects in the paint, but will wash off eventually. So, ensure you have a perfect surface prior to applying (do an IPA wipe down or similar).

You also have my number so feel free to give me a call.

I agree.

The 08' Z I did was ROCK hard paint. I've heard the earlier generation 350Z's had really soft paint and the newer cars had very hard clear coats. Not sure how true that is but I will say, the statement made sense in regard to the clear coat on the 08 I worked over. I attempted many combos before I settled on M105/D300 on the 5" Megs MF cutting disc. The nice part about the above combo was that it still finished down very nicely and had a significantly longer working time since the D300 was added to the mix. On a 5" MF pad, I apply two pea sized drops of M105 and one pea sized drop of D300. Works like a charm.

[Mike Phillips]

I'm still in the camp that foam finishes out better on a wider range of paint systems than any type of fiber pad. Whether you can see the end-result depends upon paint color and how you inspect.

Since this car is black, simply do a Test Spot first, do all the correction and polishing steps to one section of paint and then if you really want to see the end-results then chemically strip the paint and then inspect.

I still like Mineral Spirits over IPA for wiping down paint to inspect but either will work, heck you can use some glass cleaner for that matter...


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1457/MakitaBO6040Test014.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1457/MakitaBO6040Test015.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1457/MakitaBO6040Test016.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1457/MakitaBO6040Test017.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1457/MakitaBO6040Test018.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1457/MakitaBO6040Test019.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1457/MakitaBO6040Test020.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1457/MakitaBO6040Test021.jpg


SMAT products are amazing but DAT products continue to be more consistent from what I've seen on a wider range of paint systems using multiple tools and pad types.


:)

[Morphiusrt]

Thank you for all the help. The paint is actually the same color as mine which is nice but I still haven't polished mine so I don't know what to really expect.

I do care about this one more because it is my first paid correction and I have a some new products that I haven't used in conjunction with the others yet so I was just trying to get some opinions.

I got everything all set up I will take plenty of pictures and keep you all posted.