Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

[ShineTimeDetail]

So there are 94 pages on that thread(http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/19021-headlight-restoration-new-uv-sealant-idea.html) and I sure as hell will never read all of it. I know some people have tweaked it and I figured I would make this thread to find out what is working and what isn't.

I myself have had the stuff to do it for 6 months in my van but didn't bite the bullet till about a week ago and now I can't stop finding lights to do lol I mean its amazing how easy and well it works for me. I do the 50/50 and its very easy to apply and make unifor...maybe I'm just a natural lol It was even windy the days I was doing it. I did one car that was finished at 2500 then topped with the 50/50 and then one car was polished then topped with the 50/50. I did this for durability reasons. You couldn't tell which was which when I was done. Here's a few pics of the lights I've done.

http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/vibeleftbefore.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/vibeleftafter.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/viberightbeforte.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/vibberightafter.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/taurusleftbefore.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/taurusleftafter.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/taurusrightbefore.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/taurusrightafter.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/headlightbeforemustangleft.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/mustangheadlightleftafter.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/headlightbeforemustangright.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/headlightmustangrightafter.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/f150rightheadlightbefore.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/f150rightafter.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/f150leftheadlightbefore.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/tomrzk22/f150leftafter.jpg

So are there any other tricks to doing this that is not mentioned in the first few pages?

[BobbyG]

I think this will make a great improvement at night!!

Very well done....:props:

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

Whats your process

[604_Snooze]

Good job Tom, what is your process?

[ShineTimeDetail]

Basically the Vibe and the Taurus were start at 1000-1500-2000-2500 then spar 50% Mineral spirit 50% The F150 and the Mustang I started with 800 I think...may have been 600 don't remember.

[ShineTimeDetail]

This thread is to summarize what is in the 95 pages of the other thread.

[A-train]

Thanks for the cliff notes version. I didn't think I would ever get that whole thing read!

[ray6]

Great work!
Using polyurethane, you could probably stop at 1500 because the poly will fill in 1500 grit scratches.

Using diluted poly is a tradeoff. As you thin it, the final coating becomes thinner, less material means less UV adsorption capaicty, meaning shorter life.

As you thicken the mixture, lifetime will increase, filling scratches will improve, etc., but it is more difficult to apply. Also weather plays a part.

You might try this:
Mix less MS to the spar than normal (you might even try full strength) and apply a small area. If it's not workable, wipe off with MS and thin further until you find the heaviest coat that is still workable. The heavier the coat the longer it will last. The coarser the sanding, the more surface area fot the coating to stick to.

If you can work with full strength. you'll probably have about 1 to 2 minutes to work the coating. Apply initially with horizontal wiping, then quickly re-wipe with vertical strokes. This will give you a more uniform coat.
ray6

[crash93ssei]

I was hoping for a summary of that thread one day :laughing:

I know there have been a few people testing this method so far, I am going to do this to my headlights soon (2002 Bonneville SLE, 2003 Bonneville SSEi, and 1996 Chevy Z71) as they are all faded and nasty looking. How long as this been proven to last so far?

[ShineTimeDetail]

Great work!
Using polyurethane, you could probably stop at 1500 because the poly will fill in 1500 grit scratches.

Using diluted poly is a tradeoff. As you thin it, the final coating becomes thinner, less material means less UV adsorption capaicty, meaning shorter life.

As you thicken the mixtuore, lifetime will increase, filling scratches will improve, etc., but it is more difficult to apply. Also weather plays a part.

You might try this:
Mix less MS to the spar than normal (you might even try full strength) and apply a small area. If it's not workable, wipe off with MS and thin further until you find the heaviest coat that is still workable. The heavier the coat the longer it will last. The coarser the sanding, the more surface area fot the coating to stick to.

If you can work with full strength. you'll probably have about 1 to 2 minutes to work the coating. Apply initially with horizontal wiping, then quickly re-wipe with vertical strokes. This will give you a more uniform coat.
ray6

So its possible to stop at 1500? How long does the 50/50 last ?

[ray6]

From what I've seen, you're lucky to get 12 months on average but it really depends on location, headlight orientation and quality of coatings.

You'll probably find that the F-150 will easily last a year.

One of our service providers used to use this mix but gave the customer a small tube of synthetic wax and told the customer the restore will last for years if he applies wax twice a year. Makes sense.

The Minwax/MS is sensitive to surface roughness and moisture when applied. It's a low cost consumer grade product and doesn't contain the highest quality ingredients.



ray6

[ShineTimeDetail]

Really? Why do most people say 2-3 years ?

[ray6]

I don't know. We have competition in the area and I know of 1 who uses the spar varnish method. He used to warrant for 1 year but stopped because he was getting some callbacks.

We haven't got a callback for quite a while, but we don't use spar varnish. I have a hard time believing spar would last a year in general on all cars. It might on some cars depending on the coating application, climate, where it's parked, etc., but I would wonder how many restorers use spar/ms and give a 1 year warranty. Anyone can offer a warranty, the real question is will that customer come back.

Satisfied customers can be your best salesman through referrals. I just don't see the advantage of using spar/ms and take the chance if you're restoring for money. There are good quality coatings available that perform far better than commercial varnish. They may seem expensive, but the actual cost per headlight is probably less than a dollar. Why take chances with your reputation to save 50 cents?

ray6

[Rsurfer]

What other coatings are you talking about?
I don't know. We have competition in the area and I know of 1 who uses the spar varnish method. He used to warrant for 1 year but stopped because he was getting some callbacks.

We haven't got a callback for quite a while, but we don't use spar varnish. I have a hard time believing spar would last a year in general on all cars. It might on some cars depending on the coating application, climate, where it's parked, etc., but I would wonder how many restorers use spar/ms and give a 1 year warranty. Anyone can offer a warranty, the real question is will that customer come back.

Satisfied customers can be your best salesman through referrals. I just don't see the advantage of using spar/ms and take the chance if you're restoring for money. There are good quality coatings available that perform far better than commercial varnish. They may seem expensive, but the actual cost per headlight is probably less than a dollar. Why take chances with your reputation to save 50 cents?

ray6

[ray6]

Delta Kits, Glass Weld, Speedokote, Medallion, Momentive, etc.