Clay & Wax

[craz0boy]

My first post, started my own mobile detailing biz this year. Guess you can say kinda new to detailing but I got my basics down. I'm adding clay bar & wax to my detail "menu". just wanted to see hear yalls methods, do's and dont's, and tips for the whole clar bar process. Thanks

[Ryan R]

Welcome to the forum and good luck on your business!
I'd polish after claying,then a paint prep before wax. Or just use an AIO after claying but protection doesn't last as long

[craz0boy]

Welcome to the forum and good luck on your business!
I'd polish after claying,then a paint prep before wax. Or just use an AIO after claying but protection doesn't last as long

Thanks man, and what would be a example of a paint prep I should use?

[AutowerxDetailing]

Thanks man, and what would be a example of a paint prep I should use?

After claying you will want to use, at the bare minimum, some sort of paint cleaner to prep the paint for your wax application. This will ensure the previous layer of wax is completely removed and will allow your freshly applied coat of wax to fully bond with the paint for longer lasting protection. The claying process will remove much of the previous layer of wax but it is best practice to polish or clean the paint prior to applying new wax again. If you use an all-in-one "cleaner wax" you should be covered.

[TimmyG]

After claying you will want to use, at the bare minimum, some sort of paint cleaner to prep the paint for your wax application. This will ensure the previous layer of wax is completely removed and will allow your freshly applied coat of wax to fully bond with the paint for longer lasting protection. The claying process will remove much of the previous layer of wax but it is best practice to polish or clean the paint prior to applying new wax again. If you use an all-in-one "cleaner wax" you should be covered.

AGREED!

I really like dodo juice prime light. Top that with some wax and be amazed.

[Y2KSVT]

After claying you will want to use, at the bare minimum, some sort of paint cleaner to prep the paint for your wax application. This will ensure the previous layer of wax is completely removed and will allow your freshly applied coat of wax to fully bond with the paint for longer lasting protection. The claying process will remove much of the previous layer of wax but it is best practice to polish or clean the paint prior to applying new wax again. If you use an all-in-one "cleaner wax" you should be covered.

With a Dawn (or similar) wash and a clay bar, I can't imagine there being much, if any, remaining wax on the paint. With a mild clay bar there really shouldn't be any marring, so in my opinion, you're ready for your LSP. Requiring an additional step of a paint cleaner, especially for a "wash and wax" detailer puts you at what I would think is essentially a $150 - $200 wax job. I know I sure as heck wouldn't wash + clay + polish or paint cleaner + wax for much under that.

[AutowerxDetailing]

With a Dawn (or similar) wash and a clay bar, I can't imagine there being much, if any, remaining wax on the paint. With a mild clay bar there really shouldn't be any marring, so in my opinion, you're ready for your LSP. Requiring an additional step of a paint cleaner, especially for a "wash and wax" detailer puts you at what I would think is essentially a $150 - $200 wax job. I know I sure as heck wouldn't wash + clay + polish or paint cleaner + wax for much under that.

I agree. That's why I was sort of hinting at some sort of AIO product for after claying. Or, I suppose if the paint is already in great shape it would be ready for your LSP of choice.

[BobbyG]

My first post, started my own mobile detailing biz this year. Guess you can say kinda new to detailing but I got my basics down. I'm adding clay bar & wax to my detail "menu". just wanted to see hear yalls methods, do's and dont's, and tips for the whole clar bar process. Thanks

:welcome: To Autogeek Online! :props:

This is "the" place to learn some of the finest ways to detail your car. There is a wealth of knowledge here for the beginner to the most advanced. A simple question is all that's needed to initiate helpful responses from members here and also Autogeek Professional Staff.

Everyone starts off as a beginner but with some reading, questions, and trial, error, and practice you'll be amazed how much you'll be able to do. After reading and understanding some of the basics, the more hands on your are the quicker you'll build your knowledge and gain experience.

This link contains articles written by Mike Phillips and has allot of great reading within.

Articles by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html)

Basic steps in order are:


Wash
Clay
Paint Correction & Polish
Seal
Wax

Great all-in-one cleaners!


Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-paint-reconditioning-cream-d151.html)
Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-polish-bonding-agent.html)
Duragloss 105 TPP (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-total-performance-polish.html)
Duragloss 501 (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-marine-rv-polish--501.html)
Mother's FX Synwax Liquid (http://www.autogeek.net/mo20016.html)

I use these with a green and white foam pads.....:props:

Some product recommendations I like to use.

Wash - Duragloss #901 (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-car-wash-concentrate.html)
Clay - Mothers (http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcla.html)
Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-powergloss-compound.html) (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-polish-po203.html) (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-nano-polish-po-106-fa-finishing-polish.html) (PO106FA)
Sealant - Ultima Paint Guard Plus (http://www.autogeek.net/ultima-paint-guard-plus.html)
Wax - Collinite 845 (http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-insulator-wax-845.html)
Spray Wax -Optimum Spray Car Wax (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-spray-wax.html)
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser (http://www.autogeek.net/mg10801.html)
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL (http://www.autogeek.net/perl-coat-protectant.html)
Trim - Ultima Tire and Trim Guard (http://www.autogeek.net/ultima-tire-trim-guard.html)
Wheel Cleaner - Meguiar's Wheel Brightener (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiar-s-wheel-brightener.html)
Wheel Protectant -Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-coat.html)
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner (http://www.autogeek.net/mg12001.html)
Glass Treatment - Aquapel (http://www.autogeek.net/rain-repellent.html)
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean (http://www.autogeek.net/128oz-optimum-power-clean-apc.html)
Interior Protectant - Meguiar’s M40 (http://www.autogeek.net/mg40128.html)
Chrome & Stainless Steel - BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Metal Acrylic Sealant (http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-all-metal-sealant.html)

[craz0boy]

Thanks for all the info so far guys. Big help and much appreciated

[slidder]

With a Dawn (or similar) wash and a clay bar, I can't imagine there being much, if any, remaining wax on the paint. With a mild clay bar there really shouldn't be any marring, so in my opinion, you're ready for your LSP. Requiring an additional step of a paint cleaner, especially for a "wash and wax" detailer puts you at what I would think is essentially a $150 - $200 wax job. I know I sure as heck wouldn't wash + clay + polish or paint cleaner + wax for much under that.

You can if "you" want to but based on personal experience, stay away from using Dawn dish shop!!

If you want to thoroughly clean your vehicle, start with a good car shampoo and give it a bath. Then, take you choice of a liquid spray that will help the clay bar by lubricating it as you move it over the paint. Re-wash and then take a mixture of 50/50 IPA and go over the entire vehicle. You shouldn't have much if any wax left on the vehicle.

[Y2KSVT]

You can if "you" want to but based on personal experience, stay away from using Dawn dish shop!!

If you want to thoroughly clean your vehicle, start with a good car shampoo and give it a bath. Then, take you choice of a liquid spray that will help the clay bar by lubricating it as you move it over the paint. Re-wash and then take a mixture of 50/50 IPA and go over the entire vehicle. You shouldn't have much if any wax left on the vehicle.

Would you mind going into detail on what your experience has been with Dawn dish soap? I've used it many many times with the intent to strip old wax and it's worked great with no ill effects. Dawn is an awesome cleaner and very gentle on paint, trim, glass, etc. I guess I see no real reason to use a top shelf soap if your intent is to remove wax, and then you'll be running all sorts of additional products and media over your paint directly after (clay bar, clay lube, polish or paint cleaner, wax, etc.). I personally believe you can achieve the same outcome with equal longevity out of your LSP with less products and time used, with a larger profit or lower end cost to the customer.

[bobble]

Paint preps are chemical paint cleaners like Pinnacle Paintwork Cleanser or P21S Paint cleaner, some AIO type products are also cleaners like DG 501 or Klasse AIO.

It really depends on what you are doing, if you are waxing use the Pinnacle or P21S, if sealing the other two IMO.

DG 501 has a sealant in it so if these type jobs are your standard 1 step every six month deals no corrections that is a very affordable choice, If Klasse I'd top with Klasse High Gloss Sealant as they like to play better together. There is a place of all the products depending on what you are doing.

[bobble]

Would you mind going into detail on what your experience has been with Dawn dish soap? I've used it many many times with the intent to strip old wax and it's worked great with no ill effects. Dawn is an awesome cleaner and very gentle on paint, trim, glass, etc. I guess I see no real reason to use a top shelf soap if your intent is to remove wax, and then you'll be running all sorts of additional products and media over your paint directly after (clay bar, clay lube, polish or paint cleaner, wax, etc.). I personally believe you can achieve the same outcome with equal longevity out of your LSP with less products and time used, with a larger profit or lower end cost to the customer.

Only thing I know is continued use, as in every week, will dry out rubber and plastic. But if someone uses it weekly they have bigger issues to deal with than that.
I personally do not strip wash if claying and polishing or claying and cleaning. I never clay without either polishing or cleaning the paint.

[slidder]

AGREED!

I really like dodo juice prime light. Top that with some wax and be amazed.


Use IPA. You can buy a bottle of it for around $2.00.

[craz0boy]

Another question, I've been thinking about buying something to help me wax faster and more efficiently instead of using the by hand method. Just looking for something basic right now just to get started. Any suggestions?