Paint feedback and pad suggestions, please

[dnobel]

I have finally decided to get a DA and plan to order the GG6. This will be used to maintain the paint on three Toyota daily driver in my family: a 2001 Prius, a 2003 Echo, and a 2008 Highlander.

I am not familiar with the relative hardness of the paint on our three Toyotas. I would appreciate some guidance on that from anyone with experience detailing those model years.

Based on what I have been reading here on AG, I am tending toward going with the Optimum MF cutting and polishing pads to use with their Hyper Compound and Hyper Polish. Would this be a good approach on these cars for someone just learning the skills? And for use with the GG6, should I go with the 6.25" or the 5.25" MF pads?

Also, what types and quantities of additional foam pads would be recommended to supplement the MF? There are so many choices, and I find it all pretty confusing. I see that some people really like the Edge 2000 white pads a lot for fine polishing, but the 6" size only seems to come as part of larger variety packs.

Thanks!

[BobbyG]

The relative hardness of any paint is usually determined by doing a little testing. As far as I know there is no industry standard and the hardness even from the same manufacturer seems to vary quite a lot.

I have 2 Toyota's and the clear on both isn't very hard at all, in fact, I've never been a big fan of Toyota finishes in general...

Optimum makes some very nice products but I have no experience with their new Microfiber pads. I do have a few and from some initial inspection they appear to be a high quality pad but I haven't tried them.

What I can say about Optimum is they make some of the finest products I've used and they did quite a bit of development and testing before making these available to the public.

Meguiar's developed a Dual Action Microfiber Correction Kit, which I've used, and it works very well. Meguiar's developed this system to include both cutting and polishing pads as well as dedicated cutting and polishing compounds specifically designed for their Microfiber pads.

Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Kit (http://www.autogeek.net/da-microfiber-starter-kit-5in.html)
Here's some great information by Mike Phillips that will help you if you need it.


Sectional Pass With a DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/24074-show-car-garage-video-how-do-section-pass-when-machine-polishing-da-polisher.html)
Removing Swirls (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/20021-definitive-how-article-removing-swirls-scratches-water-spots-using-porter-cable-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html)
DA Trouble Shooting Guide (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37769-da-polisher-trouble-shooting-guide.html)
Waxing With a DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pinnacle-wax/28651-how-machine-apply-wax-using-da-polisher.html)

On the Porter Cable style machines I prefer the 5 1/2" size pads..


Lake Country Backing Plate (http://www.autogeek.net/lc43125.html)
Lake Country Flat Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html)

Foam Pads This is a handy chart was written by Todd Helme over on Autopia Forums so I've copied it as it is quite good. While every description below is not available in every style the description and color do apply.

Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Coarse Green Cutting/Polishing - This foam is of medium density with the ability to level very fine scratches and very light oxidation. Use light swirl removers with this pad.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Green Polishing/Finishing Foam - Use this foam to apply one-step cleaner waxes. It is a balance of polishing and finishing that is perfect for all-in-one product application.

Gray Finishing 6.5 inch Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.

Red Ultra-soft Wax/Sealant Foam - This soft, imported foam is ideal for applying the final coat of wax or sealant. The foam works especially well when applying liquid waxes or sealants because it is firm enough to keep the majority of the product on the paint, rather than soaking it up. The red foam has no cut or cleaning ability.

Super Soft Gold Jewelling Foam - The CCS Super Soft Gold Jewelling Pad is made of Lake Country's softest foam. Use the gold pad to apply a very fine polish or glaze as the final step of the polishing process. Jewelling is the term coined for this step because it intensifies gloss and reflectivity, like a jewel. The gold foam pad also works well for wax and sealant application[/FONT]

What do intend to use for a sealant or wax?

[Mike Phillips]

I am not familiar with the relative hardness of the paint on our three Toyotas.



Regardless of how hard or soft the paint is you always want to use the least aggressive product to get the job done.

Get the job done = get the paint to look how you want it to look.

Keep your expectations realistic. If these cars are daily drivers and not "Show Cars" then don't aim for flawless, show car finishes because creating a flawless show car finish means removing all the swirls and scratches so the paint is flawless and all the UV protection for the entire matrix of paint is in the clear layer.

Instead, aim for making the paint look nice. Machine buff using a medium cut polish or a fine cut polish. This will remove the majority of the shallow swirls and scratches and restore a clear, smooth surface and it is clarity and smoothness that will make the paint look great overall. The apply a good wax or paint sealant and after this don't do things that put defects back into the paint, that is don't go to brush car washes and when you do wash the car use quality car washing tools.

I cover all of this and more in my how-to book.


:)

[dnobel]

Bobby, thank you for the detailed response and all the pad suggestions.

Mike, thank you for your guidance here. I downloaded the PDF version of your book earlier this week, and I am VERY glad I did. Even though I have already read many of your postings and watched a lot of your video tutorials, the book organizes it all and and adds much more. It is clear, thorough, and comprehensive, with great photos and illustrations. As a novice, I feel much more confident approaching detailing knowing I have it instantly available as a reference.

[dnobel]

What do intend to use for a sealant or wax?

I have had great results with WGDGPS 3.0, but I think I will be putting Opti-Coat on at least two of the vehicles. I am really drawn to the longterm reduced maintenance.

[BobbyG]

I have had great results with WGDGPS 3.0, but I think I will be putting Opti-Coat on at least two of the vehicles. I am really drawn to the longterm reduced maintenance.

If you're leaning toward permanent long term protection then Optimum Opti-Coat is a great product. Before applying it be sure that the finish is clean properly polished for maximum gloss....