Speed Settings for the Flex 3401

[Mike Phillips]

Speed Settings for the Flex 3401 (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/flex-polishers/49262-speed-settings-flex-3401-a.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1153/Flex3401Speed0.jpg


The below are recommended ranges for using the Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher. The tool is actually easier to control and move over the paint at higher speed settings versus lower speed settings. Keep this in mind if you're brand new to using the Flex 3401 and you turn it on for the first time using a slow speed setting.

Get a feel for the tool when you first turn it on using a slow speed setting and then use your thumb to turn up the speed as your comfort level increases.

When first starting out, practice on a large, flat horizontal panel like the hood or trunk lid of a car.


Show Car Detailing Work
Multiple Step Procedures using Dedicated Products & Pads

5-6 Speed Setting - Heavy Correction Work
With the Flex 3401 and doing any type of correction work, the tool is actually easiest to use and will do the most and fastest correction work on the high speed settings, so for any cutting or correction work use the 5-6 Speed setting.

You can spread your product out using the low speed settings just to get the product spread out over the area you're going to work and preventing slinging of product splatter but once you get the product spread out, use your thumb to move the dial up to the high settings.


4-6 Speed Setting - Polishing Work
For polishing work you can bump the speed down to the 4-5 speed setting or if you're using a polishing pad for correction work then use the 5-6 speed setting.

2-4 Speed Setting - Final or Finish Polishing/Machine Applying Wax
Any time you're doing any final polishing or machine applying a finishing wax or paint sealant then you want to be on the 3-4 setting.

Of course there's little personal preference to all of this but the above are good general ranges for using this tool.


The Variable Speed Dial on the Flex 3401

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1153/Flex3401Speed1.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1153/Flex3401Speed2.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1153/Flex3401Speed3.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1153/Flex3401Speed4.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1153/Flex3401Speed5.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1153/Flex3401Speed6.jpg


Production Detailing Work
If you're doing product work and using a one-step cleaner/wax or AIO, (All-in-One), type product you should be in the 4-6 speed range and you'll want the speed and power to aid in doing any correction work.


Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html)

:xyxthumbs:

[insigner]

Thank you Mike, this is probably going to be my next DA since I hate it when rotation of normal DAs stops when you really need it

[Mike Phillips]

Thank you Mike, this is probably going to be my next DA since I hate it when rotation of normal DAs stops when you really need it


That's the normal progression...

I was just on the phone with a guy getting ready to buff out a 32" Motorhome. One side is in excellent condition but the side exposed to the sun is completely oxidized.

His question was which type of DA to go with. Since he has experience machine polishing and also owns a boat and a few cars I recommended the Flex 3401 because he's going to want the power when buffing out or rather chewing off all the dead, oxidized gel-coat.

This kind of project can be undertaken with the PC style tools but a direct drive, forced rotation dual action polisher is going to be a lot more effective.


We have a brand new video on using Flex Polishers that the editing was completed today, should be available in a matter of weeks.


:xyxthumbs:

[fenderpicks]

Hi Mike, i have used my 3401 for a few times now, and every time i try keeping this beast under control, i failed miserably...

I know this machine is force rotated, but it is really taking me for a walk when im trying to use it for getting rid of swirls or just polishing....

Are there any advice that can help me get a better control of this machine?

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Mike, i have used my 3401 for a few times now, and every time i try keeping this beast under control, i failed miserably...

I know this machine is force rotated, but it is really taking me for a walk when im trying to use it for getting rid of swirls or just polishing....

Are there any advice that can help me get a better control of this machine?


Hold the pad flat.

If you hold the body of the tool at any type of angle so the pad is not flat you will feel the buffing pad trying to,


Walk away from you
Walk towards you
Walk to the right
Walk to the left

Besides that, stick with 7" or smaller pads. I like the new Hybrid pads and in the new video that's what we show.

Kind of goes without saying that the smaller the pad, the less leverage the pad has over ANY tool.

A great way to "feel" this difference would be to buff using a 6.5" pad and then switch to a 4" pad on the new 4" backing plate. You would instantly find that it's incredibly easy to control the Flex 3401 by switching to small 4" pad.

That same difference can be felt using 5.5" pads by using the 4 3/8" backing plate.

Also, while thin pads work best with PC style tools, they don't help or hurt when using direct drive tools like the Flex 3401 or Rotary Buffers, so when you have the option for thin or thick pads for the size you want for the Flex 3401 opt for the thicker version.

The Flex 3401 is a heck of a workhorse but it does require a little more focus than the simple PC style tools to control and use. That's the primary reason I initially gave it an "Ease of use ranking of 3" when I wrote the below article back in 2009


How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/22263-how-choose-right-polisher-your-detailing-project.html)



Of course it always helps just to be in good physical shape if you're going to buff out cars. Not saying you're not but I never know how many people are going to read this into the future.


:xyxthumbs:

[fenderpicks]

Lol im a pretty skinny person, when i hold the 3401, it looks huge.

But anyways... i do believe the pad is flat on the paint most of the time, and it still was walking on me.
I use 6.5" pads at all times with the Flex. CCS/HT/Flat

One hand where the head is, and the other holding the body where the trigger is at

[Danube]

Thank you Mike, this is probably going to be my next DA since I hate it when rotation of normal DAs stops when you really need it


Lol im a pretty skinny person, when i hold the 3401, it looks huge.

But anyways... i do believe the pad is flat on the paint most of the time, and it still was walking on me.
I use 6.5" pads at all times with the Flex. CCS/HT/Flat

One hand where the head is, and the other holding the body where the trigger is at



I would advice getting a different pads as I found that flat pads are really hard to control on 3401 no matter how flat you keep them (and you can't keep them flat on the entire vehicle)!!! Poorboy's VC pads make a difference, a huge one IMO .. the best pads for 3401 by far.

As mentioned above the 4" pads are breeze to control, so give it a go!

:xyxthumbs:

[fenderpicks]

Man thats not good.
All i have are CCS,Hybird,HT pads....
And if i use a 4" pad... what's the reason for getting the 3401 >.<?

[beric]

Lol im a pretty skinny person, when i hold the 3401, it looks huge.

But anyways... i do believe the pad is flat on the paint most of the time, and it still was walking on me.
I use 6.5" pads at all times with the Flex. CCS/HT/Flat

One hand where the head is, and the other holding the body where the trigger is at


The point of being in 'good physical shape' (or at least, fair) is to be noted. From your description of self it seems you may have a little challenge with even the mild PC.
I have just moved over from the PC the amazing Flex 3401, and Wheeeeee! Man, is there a difference ,but, as was said, it is a different animal, yes "beast". What it does teach you is to 'keep the pad flat. A guage you can use is to keep glancing at how the pad flattens out under the machine as you use it. You can pick up some unevenness if its not held flat.

[bigez]

So I guess with the Flex, you still apply the same amount of pressure you would with a regular DA, huh?

[Mike Phillips]

I would advice getting a different pads as I found that flat pads are really hard to control on 3401 no matter how flat you keep them (and you can't keep them flat on the entire vehicle)!!!


Good point and that probably has to do with the 100% surface contact a flat pad has with the paint.



Poorboy's VC pads make a difference, a huge one IMO .. the best pads for 3401 by far.


I'm not a fan of VC pads but another option would be the CCS pads or we're bringing in convoluted pads, some people call these waffle pads or egg crate shaped pads but these would make controlling the Flex 3401 much easier.

There's also Kompressor Pads and Cobra Cross Groove pads.


Click here to see all kinds of buffing pads (http://www.autogeek.net/foam-polishing-pads.html)





As mentioned above the 4" pads are breeze to control, so give it a go!

:xyxthumbs:

Correct. And in the same way, any size smaller than 7" or 6.5" gets easier as the diameter gets smaller.

Fiber pads are also easier to control due to the characteristics of fiber versus foam.






Man thats not good.
All i have are CCS, Hybrid, HT pads....


Here's some tips, hold the tool in a way that it's close to your body, not with your arms extended away from your body. The further away you hold the tool from your body the more leverage the tool has over you. The closer you hold the tool to your body the more leverage you have over the tool.



And if i use a 4" pad... what's the reason for getting the 3401 >.<?


To buff thin panels and to avoid buffing on body lines. It also helps to work around miscellaneous components on a car body, for example a rear view mirror, a wing, or spoiler, a B-pillar, etc.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1252/1986BuickRegal_011.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1252/1986BuickRegal_012.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1315/1969CamaroIndyPC021.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1315/1969CamaroIndyPC015.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1315/1969CamaroIndyPC048.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1315/1969CamaroIndyPC022.jpg






What it does teach you is to 'keep the pad flat. A gauge you can use is to keep glancing at how the pad flattens out under the machine as you use it. You can pick up some unevenness if its not held flat.



If you hold it on edge for any portion of the pad it will try to walk on you, so it's self-teaching.

PC style tools are also self-teaching in that when you see the pad stop rotating you're also doing something wrong and need to tweak your technique.





So I guess with the Flex, you still apply the same amount of pressure you would with a regular DA, huh?


Yes.

For correction steps you start out with firm downward pressure for the initial passes and then lessen the downward pressure for the last few passes for each section pass.

We cover this in our new DVD on Flex power tools.


:)

[Bunky]

A great way to "feel" this difference would be to buff using a 6.5" pad and then switch to a 4" pad on the new 4" backing plate. You would instantly find that it's incredibly easy to control the Flex 3401 by switching to small 4" pad.


I have used 6.5-in and 5.5-in and for some reason I like the 6.5-in pads better for feel. It is counter intuitive so really have not figured out why. I tried the VC pads and they were better on horizontal to some extent but less so on vertical surfaces. In part.it was the extra pressure to just collapse the pad. :weakling: