First time buffing/polishing black

[tooshort_128]

I'm buffing out some light scratches and swirls in my Tahoe and am having some trouble. I'm using a rotary with an orange LC CCS pad with Meg's UC. It seems that the scratches are coming out little by little but I've gone over a section a couple times already and I may need to go over it again. I'm thinking I'm not working the product long enough but it seems to dry out quick and I start to dry buff. I'm also having pad jump on me a bit too. I seasoned the pad, but maybe not enough? Do I need to use more product (trying not to sling it everywhere though)?

On a side note, I've ended up with some buffer trails/holograms but I'm attributing that to the cut of the orange pad and the UC. I'm thinking I'll follow up with some SwirlX with a white pad after scratch removal.

[shoeless89]

I've gotten the best results with UC after fully working the polish. I would say its drying out so bad because your using it with a rotary that adds a lot more heat to the product. UC usually has great working time. Try to use a less agressive pad such as a white pad and/or a less aggressive product to see if you get better results. IMO you'll almost always end up with holograms when using a rotary. Thats why most people finish with a DA. Hope that helps!

[alko]

:whs: try misting with water as well.

[tooshort_128]

Could I slow the rotary down a bit to extend working time?

Alko, you mean misting like with the KB method?

[opie_7afe]

i never had UC dry out with a rotary unless the panel was hot, if the panel was in the sun before i start buffing i do a rinse with water and re-dry the car to cool the panels down im working on. and i wouldnt use scratch-x on white imo the abrasive particle size is too big for a final polish. swirl-x would be your best bet as an OTC product. or just get some m205 which can be found in most parts stores.(advance auto has cheapest price besides the random walmarts with the pro line), but uc on orange pad with gm's medium hardness clears for the normal vehicles(not specialty ones) do show compounding haze with UC, but some 205 or even ultimate polish removes it as the haze with UC is very slight anyways.

shoeless, you dont always end up with holograms with a rotary if you are using the tool correct, imo uc on an orange pad will always leave holograms/compounding haze on most paints, now UC on a white pad via rotary is my go to one step polish for super hard toyota white paints and dont leave compounding haze. remember alot use menzerna po85rd with a rotary and no holograms or haze so its all in the technique. its not the tool its the person behind it ;)

[tooshort_128]

The panels definitely weren't hot. The truck was in the garage, which is where I did it. I don't know why the pad skips on me, but maybe I'll try a test spot with a white pad after seasoning it and see how it goes.

My rotary has 5 or 6 speeds and I was using 3....It ranges from 200rpm to 3300rpm. Does that sound about right?

[opie_7afe]

you have the harbor freight rotary dont you? the pad is skipping because you dont have the pad flat or not enough product, i prime the pad then use 4 pea sized drops(not petite pea size) and then i just smear it around the area using the pad and start polishing, if it is the harbor freight one i use speed 4-5 because once you put pressure down it bogs down and slows to about speed 3..just will take some practice, id get a hood from a junkyard or call up a body shop see if they have any with dents ect. and if it is the harbor freight rotary throw the bail handle in the woods or burn it, god i hate the handle that came with it, i use no handle at all much easier to keep in in control as when your using a handle it has the tendency to put the pad on an angle and make it hop.

[tooshort_128]

Opie, you hit the nail on the head. I do have the Harbor Freight one....lol I'll try using a little more product and ditching the handle.

[tooshort_128]

As for the pad being flat, I think its as flat as I can get with a LC curved CCS pad.