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View Full Version : Hard water damage all over brand new Audi S4!!! Please help!



BGAndrea
04-08-2012, 09:15 AM
Hello,
My car currently has 2000 miles on it. It was a rainy day when I picked up the car, so I never really got to examine the paint when I got it. As soon as I took delivery, I took the car to my local detail shop (as it was still too cold here to detail myself). I got their "new car protection package", which included Klasse sealant, polishing (if needed), scotchguard on the carpets, vinyl/leather treatment, etc. They said all I had to do to maintain the car for the following year was to wash it and use a spray wax if I so desired, though it really wasn't necessary to wax it. I HATE swirl marks, so I decided that instead of drying my car with a microfiber towel, I would use a leaf blower. One day, after washing, I looked at the car in bright sun. The paint is COVERED with tiny tiny dots, which I am guessing are some sort of hard water stains. Also, the glass all around the car is covered in these same skeletonized circles. I took the car to the detail place yesterday, as the problem is so bad on the front window that it is hard to see out of. He gave me a piece of 000 steel wool and told me to use window cleaner as a lubricant, and then scrub with the steel wool on the glass. I would say this improved the condition 60%, but I still have a lot of work to do. I also tried pure white wine vinegar, and that did absolutely nothing. As far as the paint, he said that some serious machine compounding would be needed in order to get the stains out of the paint. The car only has 2000 miles on it. I am really reluctant to do anything that drastic. He said that he thinks the problem was due to the car sitting on the dealer's lot. But...his shop shouldn't have sealed the paint in that condition, so he would work with me if I wanted them to compound. His suggestion was to live with it for a year, and then when I am ready for the sealant to be re-applied, let him do a full out compound. I love to detail my cars myself, but I have never had this problem, and it seems serious beyond my abilities. My guess is that using the leaf blower did more harm than good. It left behind small droplets, which dried and calcified. I have a Culligan water softening system in my house, so I don't know why the water is still hard, but I may just have to get a stand-alone water softener for the car washing hose. I'm going to do some more scrubbing on the glass today with the steel wool, and will keep you posted, but in the meantime, any recommendations??? I'm freaking out here!

Thanks!

ArkayoDeetayo
04-08-2012, 10:15 AM
It's not that "drastic"...

If it's just water spots, just a light cleaning polish will remove it, without removing any or very little cc

or just use Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover, glass polish, metal polish, mineral spot remover (http://www.autogeek.net/chemical-guys-water-spot-remover.html)

soto
04-08-2012, 10:44 AM
I have heard that the poor boys professional polish will get rid of the water spots on the paint and glass and even metal and it's non abrasive

tuscarora dave
04-08-2012, 11:22 AM
I have heard that the poor boys professional polish will get rid of the water spots on the paint and glass and even metal and it's non abrasive
I can tell you through experience that Poorboy's World Pro Polish is about the best remover of hard water mineral deposits that I have found and yes, for the most part it is non abrasive and works chemically to remove the mineral deposits if they are in fact just mineral deposits.

Don't think for a minute that just because the car is new that standing hard water couldn't have etched deeply into the paint because I've seen it many times on newer cars. I say that PB PP is a great remover of mineral deposits but it still requires a lot of work and preferably with a rotary polisher and foam finishing pad. Minerals are some of the hardest substances on this earth.

What I do is (in the shade) wet a towel with distilled white vinegar (not wine vinegar) and lay the towel flat over the area to be worked and allow the vinegar to dwell for 5 minutes or so on the mineral deposits, then begin to work that area with the pro polish. Depending on the severity of the mineral deposits, a DA polisher or a lot of elbow grease by hand might work but a rotary beats all for this.

I'm talking about regular pro polish, not pro polish 2. Pro polish 2 is quite aggressive and may work better if you are dealing with severe mineral deposits. If you are dealing with deep etchings, pro polish on a foam pad will likely do nothing to remedy the problem other than to remove the minerals.

Got any photos of the paint's condition?

Superior detail
04-08-2012, 12:20 PM
Ok, so first off, my WARNING more than advice is to definitely not wait a year, in fact get those off asap. Those spots are most likely hard water spots. Depending on what is causing them, they may etch themselves into your clear beyond repair. Although seemingly drastic, polishing water spots, scratches, bird drop etching, halo-grams, swirls, and all other imperfections is what keeps us pros in business. What I'm saying is that to a pro it isn't all that drastic and is exactly what is practiced daily. In your case I would recommend letting a pro compound these spots off your car. Then apply a sealant. You will be much happier with the result than if you try to cheap it out and end up causing more expensive work later. If these water spots do end up etching themselves deeply into your clear, you may need a wet sanding process to remove them. On a factory paint job you have very little room for error or wet sanding.

Good luck whatever you decide to do!

Jaeson Lane
Superior Detailing
858.349.3135
Superiordetailingsd@gmail.com
www.superiordetailing.webs.com

tuscarora dave
04-08-2012, 12:40 PM
:iagree:
What concerns me is that the detail shop that you already took it to should have noticed it and called you about it before doing anything. Instead he/they just sealed over them. I'd be looking for a detailer that has what's best for you as the customer in mind rather than just sealing over potential problems. Unless of course these spots are on top of the sealant.

swanicyouth
04-08-2012, 02:04 PM
I was just able to remove some moderate water spots from all my windows using Menzerna Intensive Polish by hand. I'm sure it would also work by hand on paint if you don't have a polisher. Try a moderate polish/light compound first, then use a finish polish - then seal or wax. One year is way to long to go before re-sealing a car. Even though Klasse is a great product, it won't last that long. This may have contributed to your water spotting. I noticed I get water spots on the windows(not waxed) and not on the paint(Opti Coated). Unless its really bad, it should be fixable by hand.