When is it time for compound?

[nickgodfrey]

So here's the deal: I've got a customer that just bought a dark blue 06 Dodge Ram. By the looks of it, it's never been waxed, and has spent its life in drive through car washes. The paint is horribly dry, and has fine scratches all over. I put a coat of cleaner wax on the hood just to make the point that wax alone wouldn't fix it. What I'm planning to do is wash, clay, polish, seal. I'm wondering what I should be looking for that would make compounding necessary. Its not oxidized, just super flat and rough in texture. Suggestions?

[tw33k2514]

Idk what polishes you have, but try a medium polish and see if you get the desired affect. If that medium polish makes the paint look how you want it then use it. If it does not, then start thinking about a compound.

Are you using a machine?

[nickgodfrey]

Yeah, this is by machine. I'm using Meguiar's polish. I've been happy with the results from ask the other stuff I've used of theirs, so I figured I'd stick with them.

[RhetoricMixes]

Which Meguiars polish are you using?

[glen e]

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h307/gersly123/SMATaggressivenessOrder.jpg

[nickgodfrey]

I'm planning to use the Ultimate, or the 205. I know the over the counter stuff is considered junk by some, but I've seen some great results from it. Will either of those cut enough to take some light texture out and level?

[nickgodfrey]

I know it's said to always start with the least aggressive method first, so that's why I'm wondering.

[umi000]

Neither Ultimate Polish nor M205 are that aggressive, but you'll never know if they'll suffice until you try it out on a test spot. If they don't work, you can always step up to something like Ultimate Compound.

[nickgodfrey]

Right. I've got that too, I'm just wondering of I could over do it by using it if it's not necessary.

[Mike Phillips]

Neither Ultimate Polish nor M205 are that aggressive,



Correct. They are both Fine Cut Polishes.




Right. I've got that too, I'm just wondering of I could over do it by using it if it's not necessary.


With a SMAT product it's only as aggressive as you want it to be because you can stop buffing as soon as the defects are removed.

Just to note, severely neglected clear coat paints, especially if they are always parked outside can turn flat and textured and be on their way to clear coat failure. This is especially true for the horizontal surfaces.

Be sure to do a test spot and if you don't see the clarity restored after a few section passes proceed with caution. I have an article on this under Articles on Car Paint in my article list.


Beginning Clearcoat Failure (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/29197-beginning-clearcoat-failure.html)


Also, if you're going to take any pictures at all,


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/21216-power-after-shots-created-before-shots.html)




:)

[nickgodfrey]

Very good article! Mike Philips = awesome. I actually read this a week ago or so. This paint is nowhere near any of the stages shown in the pictures, but if it's let go another summer I could see it getting there. I think what I'll do is try to polish the hood, which I'd the worst area, and see how it comes out. If it's still rough, I'll compound with a light cut pad.