Lacquer Coated Bumper....Ugh!

[STI4Life06]

Hey guys,

I just purchased a classic red 1991 Mazda Miata (single stage paint). he previous owner thought it would be a fantastic idea to coat the front and rear bumpers in lacquer to give it a "shine". Well, it did the complete opposite and faded the bumpers :doh:. I don't know who would do that, especially to a classic car that only has 60k miles on it.

I noticed that the lacquer is chipped in a few places and it looks like brand new paint underneath it so I am thinking of wet sanding it. I don't have a ton of hands on experience wet sanding but Ive done my research.

Just wondering if you guys think it would work or if its a bad idea. Honestly I do not have much to lose since the bumpers look awful because of fade. I have some 1200 grit 3m wetsand paper, will this do the trick?

Heres some pics:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t4iEr9a8bcg/TysQ66CS20I/AAAAAAAABBw/qTlxxIE1HYc/s640/IMG-20120201-00011.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PWeviQPyhO0/TysQ6-lfOjI/AAAAAAAABBw/qSaIEWnQEYw/s640/IMG-20120201-00010%2520-%2520Copy.jpg


Rear Bumper is even worse:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Oj7sjBVSupw/TysRAqQYywI/AAAAAAAABBw/qrPgcn3v1j0/s640/IMG-20120201-00019%2520-%2520Copy.jpg

[MiataBernie]

The early NAs have a horrible rep for going pink in little to no time at all. Before you wet sand, you might want to just try a good polish and wax combo. I've had good luck doing that, but the cars I've worked on haven't had anything layered on top of the paint.

[STI4Life06]

The early NAs have a horrible rep for going pink in little to no time at all. Before you wet sand, you might want to just try a good polish and wax combo. I've had good luck doing that, but the cars I've worked on haven't had anything layered on top of the paint.

Yeah I tried just buffing with the flex rotary and M105 and I couldn't even keep the buffer in one spot because the surface is so course.

[Mike Phillips]

I've used classic Miata's with single stage paints that have oxidized from dramatic side-by-side, before and after demonstrations and they always work so well because you can create such eye-popping results.

A lot of people simply don't know how to properly take care of any car paint let along single stage paints that it's easy to see why some might try to "fix" or "prevent" oxidation by paint it but it is the wrong approach.


If the underlying single stage paint is factory, then it's going to be really risky to try to remove the clear without messing up the single stage paint no matter how you approach it but even more so by wetsanding.

Ugh... no simple and safe approach...


You could try slowly and methodically trying to abrade the clear off using a compound by hand. You could try by machine but it would be a lot more risky.


Also, it's very possible the person that applied the clear lacquer scuffed the original single stage paint which would also act to make it thin.


Let us know what you end up doing. It would have been so easy to remove oxidation and maintain the single stage paint.



:)

[STI4Life06]

I've used classic Miata's with single stage paints that have oxidized from dramatic side-by-side, before and after demonstrations and they always work so well because you can create such eye-popping results.

A lot of people simply don't know how to properly take care of any car paint let along single stage paints that it's easy to see why some might try to "fix" or "prevent" oxidation by paint it but it is the wrong approach.


If the underlying single stage paint is factory, then it's going to be really risky to try to remove the clear without messing up the single stage paint no matter how you approach it but even more so by wetsanding.

Ugh... no simple and safe approach...


You could try slowly and methodically trying to abrade the clear off using a compound by hand. You could try by machine but it would be a lot more risky.


Also, it's very possible the person that applied the clear lacquer scuffed the original single stage paint which would also act to make it thin.


Let us know what you end up doing. It would have been so easy to remove oxidation and maintain the single stage paint.



:)

Thanks Mike. I can try to compound by hand, maybe Ill build up some muscle in the process haha. What you recommend to use as a buffing pad if I were to do it by hand?

Worst comes to worst I am going to get the bumpers repainted this spring but, I'd figure I would give it a shot to revive it

[Rix6]

A lot of cleaner wax with terry cloth towels?

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Mike. I can try to compound by hand, maybe Ill build up some muscle in the process haha. What you recommend to use as a buffing pad if I were to do it by hand?




To start with a piece of terry cloth towel. Take a 100% cotton towel and cut it into a square about 4" by 6" and then fold this in half and when you apply the compound put a little passion behind the pad.


After you remove the lacquer then by hand or machine remove in toweling marks left by the cotton nap and the pressure of your hand.


I don't actually know if this will work effectively but you don't have very many safe options.


Note: As soon as you start seeing red paint you've broken through the layer of clear lacquer paint.


You might even try a Scotchbrite pad with an aggressive compound for the initial abrading just to remove the majority of clear lacquer pant then switch over to terry cloth or microfiber applicator pads.


:)

[MiataBernie]

Would a wipe down with a lacquer thinner be a bad idea?

I know it could soften the original paint, but at this point, what lasting harm would it do?

Also, save that front Mazda sticker if you can... always get mad props from the die hard when they see those.

[Mike Phillips]

Would a wipe down with a lacquer thinner be a bad idea?




Lacquer Thinner is actually a very safe solvent so it I think it would be safe to at least give it a try.

I'm pretty sure from experience that once lacquer paint has fully dried lacquer thinner is no longer very effective at dissolving it. It might soften it up and with some elbow grease and the scrubbing ability of something like some terry cloth it might be strong enough to at least do the majority of the grunt work.


Definitely an idea worth trying...


:dblthumb2:

[flamed03vert]

Yeah I tried just buffing with the flex rotary and M105 and I couldn't even keep the buffer in one spot because the surface is so course.

I am with the wet sanding idea. The clear was probably applied from a rattle can which would be why the surface is so grainy. Wet sanding it would at least knock the the roughness and allow to to go further with polishing. It wouldn't be perfection but it would be better

[Rix6]

I wonder if applying strips of gorilla tape and then peeling them off would help remove that lacquer? I don't know what it would do to the paint underneath in the spots where the adhesive might contact the original paint.

Since the lacquer is failing, getting polishing oils to wick between the original and lacquer might help further break tthe bond between those two paint layers. Maybe working a bunch of Meguiars glaze into the paint would work towards that goal.

Other ideas:

-Goof Off. Try saturating a small section with at and work at the paint with terry cloth.

-Steam. Try to work it under the lacquer by holding a steam nozzle at an angle.

-Compressed air

With the exception of tape, these other suggestions are all centered around the idea of getting a layer of fluid between the paint to help float that top layer off.

Again, I have a hunch that cleaner wax will be your friend.
Disclaimer: I am not an expert on paint.

[STI4Life06]

To start with a piece of terry cloth towel. Take a 100% cotton towel and cut it into a square about 4" by 6" and then fold this in half and when you apply the compound put a little passion behind the pad.


After you remove the lacquer then by hand or machine remove in toweling marks left by the cotton nap and the pressure of your hand.


I don't actually know if this will work effectively but you don't have very many safe options.


Note: As soon as you start seeing red paint you've broken through the layer of clear lacquer paint.


You might even try a Scotchbrite pad with an aggressive compound for the initial abrading just to remove the majority of clear lacquer pant then switch over to terry cloth or microfiber applicator pads.


:)


Would a wipe down with a lacquer thinner be a bad idea?

I know it could soften the original paint, but at this point, what lasting harm would it do?

Also, save that front Mazda sticker if you can... always get mad props from the die hard when they see those.


Lacquer Thinner is actually a very safe solvent so it I think it would be safe to at least give it a try.

I'm pretty sure from experience that once lacquer paint has fully dried lacquer thinner is no longer very effective at dissolving it. It might soften it up and with some elbow grease and the scrubbing ability of something like some terry cloth it might be strong enough to at least do the majority of the grunt work.


Definitely an idea worth trying...


:dblthumb2:

Thanks a bunch for the input guys. Never even thought of the lacquer thinner! I will definitely give that a shot and see how i make out! but like you said it may at least soften it up a bit so I can rub it off with a scothbrite/terry cloth and compound.

If it would only get a little warmer outside, this cold is pissing me off!

[bugman53]

Try a pressure washer. It will work under the clear and might lift the lacquer off. It normaly dont hurt the factory paint. Just just a wide tip and keep your distance. Worth a try. Other wise solvent or brake clean but do test spot first.

[The Count]

Just put another coat of lacquer on itIm the MAN

[Blackthorn One]

I would try 3000 grit sandpaper and wetsand most of it off to get 95% removed, and then finish the rest off with a polish. I would be sure to do the nooks and crannies first, because if you do the area around the nooks and crannies first and then do them, you will make the paint thinner than it needs to be around the nooks and crannies. It's like painting.You always shoot the nooks and crannies first, otherwise if you do the surrounding area first, you get runs in the paint when you do the nooks and crannies later.