If you could do it all over again....

[Tderby]

Ok, so if you could do it all over again, knowing what you know now, what advice would you give me?
This will by my first time every doing anything like this. I took all your great advice so far, and gathered all the appropriate gear and juices, I am now ready to tackle the beast of a project I have for my black Acura RL. This car’s paint is hurting, I attached a couple pictures. I drive it all day long as a real estate agent, having clients climb in and out of it, so I need it looking top notch, and well protected.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/40668/IMG_14501.JPG
Boy do I hope this is overspray or just straight up contaminates...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/40668/IMG_14521.JPG
Another shot of it...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/40668/IMG_14511.JPG
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/40668/IMG_14582.JPG
A few questions I have straight out the gate is :
How much waterless wash should I use? Enough to have it start dripping down? Or just enough to mist the paint?
With the Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection and Collinite, do I Orbital up the whole car, then buff it down? Or work in sections, Orbital a small section, then buff?
Any advantage of leaving the Wet Diamond on for 24 hours before I buff it down? Or would it be best to buff it down, then let it cure?
Any products you would swap with something else? Or add into the mix? Like Iron X?
My plan is :
1. Wash it down real good [DP Waterless Auto Wash
2. Clay down the car and windows [Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay / Pinnacle Clay Lubricant]
3. Wash down car again [DP Waterless Auto Wash]
4. Tape off exposed rubber frame around sunroof, emblems and badges, and other seams where I have already found remnants of “other people’s wax” [Green 3m auto performance masking tape”
5. With a 6inch Griot’s Random Orbital & Orange LCC Flat Pad – Polish car in small sections, then buff areas before starting new section – [Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover]
6. With the Orbital & White LCC Flat Pad – Glaze car in small sections, then buff area before starting new section [Wolfgang Finishing Glaze]
7. With the Orbital & Crimson LCC Pad – Seal Paint [Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection]
**Let cure in garage for 24 hours**
8. With the Orbital & Different Crimson LCC Pad – Wax entire car down [Collinite’s 845]
9. Remove tape and clean windows – [Stoner and Waffle Weave Towel]

Thank you again for all your help and advice!!!!

[Kristopher1129]

I would re-wash after compound. Smaller pads would be easier to work with. 5" instead of 6"...but you already have your pads, so maybe next time.

Other than that, you see seem to be on the right track. That paint is horrific. There's really nothing you can do to make it worse, haha.

[embolism]

remember to mark your backing plate so you can tell when it stops rotating

if the tsr isn't cutting it, then you can probably get 8oz of M105 at autozone or pepboys.

you will probably need to wash the car after your compounding and polishing steps before doing the sealant

[Tderby]

Is there any benefit of leaving the Wet Diamond on, unbuffed over night?

[Kristopher1129]

Is there any benefit of leaving the Wet Diamond on, unbuffed over night?

I doubt it will hurt. I leave WDGPS on over night all the time. I don't think it really will give you any benefits. But, you definitely wanna leave the vehicle out of the rain, or any moisture for that matter for 12 hours after it's been buffed off.

[Black Car]

I have a black Acura TL. Paint (B-92p) is very soft. Definitely try using a polish with a light cutting pad before you go any harsher than that. Those spots could very well be chips.