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blacknblu
11-18-2011, 09:38 AM
Hello All – it’s been a very long time since I’ve posted, but I’ve recently acquired a new Tahoe (black), and this new acquisition has posed new obstacles in my detailing regime. Until now, I haven’t owned a black vehicle, and the challenges associated are bringing me back for the expert advice of this forum.


My first issue is that I have hard water, and if I don’t get the vehicle dried almost immediately after a wash, spots appear very quick. In the past, I’ve been able to get the vehicle dried in time, but this black Tahoe is proving to be a challenge. I also have 3 kids (and a wife who is in school full time), so time is of the essence. 14 hour weekends devoted to car care are a thing of the past, so I’m searching for some tips and tricks on how to reduce the time needed to remove these spots (hopefully by preventing their creation). What are some (inexpensive) effective solutions you have discovered?


Feed back please

JBL
11-18-2011, 09:44 AM
A leaf blower works wonders for getting water off of a car. Outside of that, a giant waffle weave guzzler towel.

Setec Astronomy
11-18-2011, 09:48 AM
First and most obvious is to use a rinseless or waterless product which by their application method alone generally prevents drying on the car, and encapsulates and/or sequesters the hardness ions to some extent (I think) beyond that. (mix with distilled water from the supermarket for even more foolproof results)

The other is to get a CR Spotless Water Systems, deionization system, water de-ionizer, purified water systems, cr-spotless, spot free rinse, spot free car washing (http://www.autogeek.net/cr-spotless-water-systems.html) which can be a pain and used in a number of ways--for rinsing only, for washing and rinsing, or to provide DI water for the above rinseless/waterless.


A leaf blower works wonders for getting water off of a car. Outside of that, a giant waffle weave guzzler towel.

Although I use a blower, I find that depending on vehicle color, temperature, wind, etc., it can still be easy to dry water on the car before you are done with washing.

jamores23
11-18-2011, 09:51 AM
use a quick detailer after the wash/blow dry with leaf blower it will take off all of your water spots. i love using optimum car wax sometimes it will be finicky and streak a bit make sure you do it out of the sun. another quick detailer i like is griots garage speed shine. its great! i usually wash the car, use a leaf blower to get as much water as possible off and go over the car with opt spray wax and boom, no water spots and a great finish.

Mike Phillips
11-18-2011, 09:56 AM
Hello All – it’s been a very long time since I’ve posted,


Welcome back!


:welcome:

courtdale
11-18-2011, 10:00 AM
Same problem, same post. My end result, I've moved almost exclusively to rinseless washes with my car. Currently using UWW+.

tuscarora dave
11-18-2011, 10:21 AM
A few of the people that I did mobile details for had such hard water that there was a rusty color in the water in the wash buckets. The next time I took care of their vehicle I would get permission to drive it to the automatic touchless car wash as a first step in the process or ask them to run it through the day before I came to do the job. Most had no problem with this as I explained why and they know I worked on an hourly basis so a little time would save them some money. I then used ONR on the day of the detail with water that I would bring from home in gallon jugs.

For me, to prevent the associated problems with hard water is to not use hard water or to polish afterwards.

NoleFan
11-18-2011, 10:49 AM
What about the “in line” filters for the hose. Has anyone tried those? Or would money be best spent elsewhere?

mark58
11-18-2011, 10:59 AM
What about the “in line” filters for the hose. Has anyone tried those? Or would money be best spent elsewhere?

Inline filters will only remove solids and if using charcoal filter it will remove smell and chlorine.
Only way to remove minerals is through water softener and RO system. One way is to buy cheap bottle water in gallons and use hand sprayer for final rinse wit about a cup of distilled white vinegar per gallon.

BMW
11-18-2011, 11:21 AM
What about the “in line” filters for the hose. Has anyone tried those? Or would money be best spent elsewhere?

AG has an inline softening kit that works reasonably well...takes a lot of the hardness out, but will not allow you to let the water dry in place or it will leave some residue (most likely the salt ions that have been exchanged within the canister)

Clean Water Filter Kit, clear inline hose filter, car wash filter kit (http://www.autogeek.net/waterfilterkit2.html)

buddhadog
11-18-2011, 12:12 PM
The best cheapest and easiest advice I have is get your wife to help you!:D

Blk5.0
11-18-2011, 12:22 PM
AG has an inline softening kit that works reasonably well...takes a lot of the hardness out, but will not allow you to let the water dry in place or it will leave some residue (most likely the salt ions that have been exchanged within the canister)

Clean Water Filter Kit, clear inline hose filter, car wash filter kit (http://www.autogeek.net/waterfilterkit2.html)

I use this kit and it works well. No more hard water for me I love it

courtdale
11-18-2011, 12:46 PM
AG has an inline softening kit that works reasonably well...takes a lot of the hardness out, but will not allow you to let the water dry in place or it will leave some residue (most likely the salt ions that have been exchanged within the canister)

Clean Water Filter Kit, clear inline hose filter, car wash filter kit (http://www.autogeek.net/waterfilterkit2.html)

I really liked the looks of this at first glance, but if salt deposits are left behind instead of the usual mineral deposits, you still forced to make sure you either dry quickly or go back over with a QD etc? Yes? I would think that kind of defeats the purpose? Is there an advantage to leaving salt behind opposed to the typical residue should you not dry in time?

Setec Astronomy
11-18-2011, 12:53 PM
I really liked the looks of this at first glance, but if salt deposits are left behind instead of the usual mineral deposits, you still forced to make sure you either dry quickly or go back over with a QD etc? Yes? I would think that kind of defeats the purpose? Is there an advantage to leaving salt behind opposed to the typical residue should you not dry in time?

The salt residue seems to be easier to wipe off, and AFAIK, will not etch the surface if you leave it there. I'm not sure that this residue is actually salt, because it is only the sodium ions that are being exchanged, I think.

BMW
11-18-2011, 03:45 PM
The salt residue seems to be easier to wipe off, and AFAIK, will not etch the surface if you leave it there. I'm not sure that this residue is actually salt, because it is only the sodium ions that are being exchanged, I think.

I agree with "Too Many Secrets"...I believe the Sodium residue is much much easier to wipe off and does not etch. True...the Chlorine may no longer be there and only the Sodium is left...not NaCL just Na...