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mjc189
11-17-2011, 01:46 PM
Is there any trick to polishing around emblems? I know some emblems are worse than others, but on my car I can see a difference where it's not polished. Back of a brush wrapped with terrycloth ? or terrycloth just by hand?...thanks

Mike Phillips
11-17-2011, 01:51 PM
Anyway you can find that works for you...


Goes without saying but the best way is to remove the emblem... hard to do on new cars because they're held on with adhesive, on classic cars you can unbolt most emblems, trim and script. (if you can get to them)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/834/DampSanding53.jpg



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/834/DampSanding51.jpg


:D

Mike Phillips
11-17-2011, 01:59 PM
This is going to sound bad but with emblems with script that also has the other guys wax embedded, caked-on and dried as hard as concrete I've used a cleaner/wax and worked it into and around the emblem using a paint brush, tooth brush, whatever I could find, Q-tip, foam swab, etc. and then meticulously removed the wax the same way and that's however I can find to remove it...

This can be a separate clean brush, any type of cloth with a fluffy nap, Q-tip, air squirter, etc.

Not fun, not easy...

If it's a customer's classic car I ask them to remove the script because they are usually aware of what a paint it is to remove the script and often times the studs coming out of the back will break off.

There's always the option of removing the emblem and then replacing it with a new one? Just depends upon how important it is to reach perfection.


:)

OCDetails
11-17-2011, 02:09 PM
I have a couple ways of dealing with emblems. I've got a little rubber chisel thing from Mr. Clean that works out awesome. It is meant for getting wax out of panel seams like where the bumper meets the fenders, but it also works great at getting polish and wax out of emblems. Another great tool is the Slick Stixxx tools. They are meant for motorcycle detailing, but they also work well for picking around emblems and areas you just can't get to otherwise. Just put a towel around the pointy tips and you can get just about anywhere. I've also got a plastic knife with a curved blade that works really well at getting polish out of hard to reach spots.

If avoiding or removing these types of things isn't an option then the next best thing to do is tape them off. If that isn't an option then the only thing you are left with are the tools to get the polish out afterwards. The final detailing can sometimes take the most time because of things like that. Having the right tools available makes all the difference in the world.

Twister
11-17-2011, 02:32 PM
I saw a car this morning that was clean but the area in between the letters on the trunk lid were very dirty and oxidized. I use a horse hair brush to clean around emblems.

I would polish those areas with an AIO by hand with a mf towel or a foam applicator that has been cut up to fit in those tight spots

budinsc
11-17-2011, 05:16 PM
i use q tips and a SOFT bristle detailing toothbrush adding a little warm water spray as i go. works great for me.

budinsc

mjc189
11-17-2011, 06:52 PM
thanks for all the responses. I'm gonna try these things and see how it goes. If it doesn't work bye bye emblems!!! lol

Mike Phillips
11-17-2011, 06:58 PM
Speak of the devil...

We had the owner Steve, remove the Camaro script before we buffed on the paint... will post pics tomorrow...

Doesn't help you but backs up what I mentioned about having the owner do it...


:D

TLMitchell
11-17-2011, 09:21 PM
I just finished with that chore about 10 minutes ago in preparation for finishing an Opti Coat application on my truck. All letters are individual with open spaces in the middle and small gaps. Pretty important on white as those areas really show dark gunk.

I use a variety of tools...a MF over pointy things like a typewriter (remember those?) eraser, pointy eraser on one end and a fine brush on the other. Plastic razor blades are useful as are Q Tips. These are made for the job:

Cotton Detailing Sticks (http://www.autogeek.net/sm506.html)

The flat end gets places nothing else will, the pointy end bends easily and too much pressure and the stick breaks. It'd be nice if the shaft were a bit less brittle. Save 'em when you're done and you can compound your ears. :eek:

I used D300 on and around the emblems after a thorough cleaning with OPC and a brush.


I have a couple ways of dealing with emblems. I've got a little rubber chisel thing from Mr. Clean that works out awesome. It is meant for getting wax out of panel seams like where the bumper meets the fenders, but it also works great at getting polish and wax out of emblems.

I got something that sounds similar at Pep Boys, small brush on one end and a rubber tip on the other.


Another great tool is the Slick Stixxx tools. They are meant for motorcycle detailing, but they also work well for picking around emblems and areas you just can't get to otherwise.

Slick Stixxx are indispensible! Some of the handiest tools I ever bought. I keep finding new ways to use them. I found 'em at a metric bike shop locally.

TL

LegacyGT
11-17-2011, 09:30 PM
I got tired of working around the emblems, and ended up just de-badging the car. My detailing is much happier now :)

BillE
11-18-2011, 08:02 AM
Popsicle sticks!

They are fairly soft, cheap and plentiful. Nice thing is you can whittle them to whatever sized tip you need.

Another item is/are cuticle sticks. They are pointed one one end and 'chiseled' on the other. Problem with them is that they are 'hard.'

Bill

mjc189
11-28-2011, 07:26 PM
good ideas! i'm def gonna try the cuticle stick wrapped in MF that would be perfect for tight spaces! what do you guys use on oxidized emblems? Do you polish by hand with whatever you are using on the car ? or try to clay? I tried scrubbing with car wash soap but that didn't do it

richy
11-28-2011, 08:29 PM
I use a mf towel and either scrunch it up to jam it in the area (with product on it) and another to remove it. Another thing I have done is to use the end of a wooden handled small paint brush behind a mf and push it into the area. That has worked well too. The key of course is to be gentle.