Lets talk outdoor winter storage.

[stig]

It's Vermont and snow is flying. Good thing I bought a '96 Miata on Thursday night...

Probably next weekend I'll be putting it away for the long winter. Unfortunately it will be stored outside. Here's what I have planned;

-Park on a tarp
-Clean car, cover
-Fuel stabilizer
-Moth balls, steel wool in exhaust, etc
-Remove battery
-Over inflate tires

Anything I'm overlooking? Should I be doing anything special with the soft top? Is it ok to let feet of snow pile up on said top, or should i be making an effort to clear it off occasionally?

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww326/saabninja/Snapbucket/5FAC87CB-orig-1.jpg

[BobbyG]

Storing a car for the winter isn't as straight forward as some might think.

Weatherproofing is paramount to preserving and protecting your investment.

You have a great plan but the only think I would add it some clothes dryer sheets. Mice do not like these sheets and they offer decent protection at minimal cost. Place these sheets near wires especially, air vents, and any place they might want to nest.

It's a good idea to clear some of the snow especially off the cloth top. Snow can be very heavy and if allowed to build up can collapse the top and framework...

[FUNX650]

It's Vermont and snow is flying. Good thing I bought a '96 Miata on Thursday night...

Probably next weekend I'll be putting it away for the long winter. Unfortunately it will be stored outside. Here's what I have planned;

-Park on a tarp
-Clean car, cover
-Fuel stabilizer
-Moth balls, steel wool in exhaust, etc
-Remove battery
-Over inflate tires

Anything I'm overlooking? Should I be doing anything special with the soft top? Is it ok to let feet of snow pile up on said top, or should i be making an effort to clear it off occasionally?


http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww326/saabninja/Snapbucket/5FAC87CB-orig-1.jpg


I would include:

-Oil/filter change, along with a chassis lube.
-Fill gas tank
-Seal up (rodent-proof) intake snorkel
-Manual tranny in neutral ("block vehicle from rolling")
-Parking brake off
-Lubricate all weatherstripping/seals/door hinges
-Before the battery is removed...make a note of the radio code, if so equipped.
-Place some desiccant packets in bowls on the interior floor
-The car cover should be "breathable"
-Of course remove any snow accumulation from lying atop the convertible top, as well as the entire covered vehicle.

Hope the winter isn't too harsh where you live.
Just look forward to enjoying a cool lil' roadster come springtime!

Bob

[SeaJay's]

Storing a car for the winter isn't as straight forward as some might think.

Weatherproofing is paramount to preserving and protecting your investment.

You have a great plan but the only think I would add it some clothes dryer sheets. Mice do not like these sheets and they offer decent protection at minimal cost. Place these sheets near wires especially, air vents, and any place they might want to nest.

It's a good idea to clear some of the snow especially off the cloth top. Snow can be very heavy and if allowed to build up can collapse the top and framework...


Dryer sheets work awesome! I put them all over my lawn tractor when it's stored for the winter.

Ensure you put them in places like under your spare tire, under the back seat if it has one, etc. The more the better. Can never be to careful, mice will nest any where and cause all kinds of issues for you.

[jpegs13]

Toss a couple of desiccant packets in the front and back to absorb moisture

[SameGuy]

I may be old-school, but along with other steps mentioned above I'd take some weight off the suspension by jacking all four corners a bit and placing wood blocks under the frame or chassis jack points. Chunks of railway tie work well, or 6x6 PTL if you can get a small section for cheap. Avoid cinder blocks unless you pad them with EPDM foam or some other non-absorbent pad.

Fill the tank all the way up and use a generous dose of Sta-Bil in the tank. As mentioned, oil and filter change, chassis lube, then when it's parked for good and ready, remove the spark plugs one at a time and fog each cylinder with fogging spray. A drop or two of 30- or 40-weight oil in each cylinder will also help.

Also, check Autozone (or similar) for a small battery tender (smart trickle-charger) from CTEK, model US 800. When it's on sale it's around $30 (just checked, Amazon's regular price is $38.50 (http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-800-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B002QUT8IC)). It's the same one that Mercedes Benz markets under their own name and they sell it for $100 or more.

Depending where you are (nearer the Greens, Whites or the Lake), you may often get big shots of snow, so I'd cut a 2x3 and tent-pole the center brace of the roof frame (with no tension), just in case.

[pixelmonkey]

I may be old-school, but along with other steps mentioned above I'd take some weight off the suspension by jacking all four corners a bit and placing wood blocks under the frame or chassis jack points. Chunks of railway tie work well, or 6x6 PTL if you can get a small section for cheap. Avoid cinder blocks unless you pad them with EPDM foam or some other non-absorbent pad.

Fill the tank all the way up and use a generous dose of Sta-Bil in the tank. As mentioned, oil and filter change, chassis lube, then when it's parked for good and ready, remove the spark plugs one at a time and fog each cylinder with fogging spray. A drop or two of 30- or 40-weight oil in each cylinder will also help.

Also, check Autozone (or similar) for a small battery tender (smart trickle-charger) from CTEK, model US 800. When it's on sale it's around $30 (just checked, Amazon's regular price is $38.50 (http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-800-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B002QUT8IC)). It's the same one that Mercedes Benz markets under their own name and they sell it for $100 or more.

Depending where you are (nearer the Greens, Whites or the Lake), you may often get big shots of snow, so I'd cut a 2x3 and tent-pole the center brace of the roof frame (with no tension), just in case.
if you arent putting the car on blocks or jack stands, i recommend using a few squares of carpet under each tire, or expect "flat spots". if the tires are older and the rubber is dry, they may not come back to "round".

another safe bet is to mix your antifreeze rich. 20-30 below 0 should be safe for your area.

hope it helps!
chris<pixelmonkey>:D

[SameGuy]

Yeah, that's another benefit of putting the car on blocks.

[stig]

Great responses!

Definitely like bracing the top from below.
Tires are well worn all-seasons that I want to replace anyway, so not particularly concerned about those.
Dryer sheets for the interior sounds good.

As far as the harshness of winter here, this is my old Saab 9000 Aero (fairly big car) at some point last winter:

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww326/saabninja/IMG_9928.jpg

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww326/saabninja/IMG_9939.jpg

And for good measure:

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww326/saabninja/IMG_9946.jpg

Really, REALLY not looking forward to that again :(

[shoeless89]

Thats a butt load of snow! Good luck man . . .