A few questions about Megs microfiber DA system before I get to work

[Wes8398]

Hey guys & girls. I know this is a "noob" question that's likely been answered before, but I SWEAR that I just spent 1/2 an hour google searching, and didn't come across clear answers on a couple questions I have (after watching about 10 different how-to's on this product). Mainly:

1) Many instructional videos (including AG's) stress over and over that this is for "FACTORY / OEM" finishes. Back in one of my introductory threads here I mentioned that my hood and front and rear bumpers are re-paints, and I inquired about using this system on repainted panels. Nobody jumped out and said "DON'T DO IT!", and a few people actually said it'll be fine since the paint is almost a year old. Now that I've actually got the products and I'm ready to get to work, I just wanted to verify this again; especially since I've read a little more on repainted surfaces often finishing poorly with ANY chemical and DA polisher. These statements scared me off a bit.

2) Amount of product. As I said above, I've seen lots of how-to's on this product. Unfortunately all the demos I've seen were of little 2x2 areas and nothing more. So I know how to prime the pad, and I know that very little (2-4 pea sized dabs) product is required, but I'm a little confused as to whether this amount of product is suggested per section, per panel, or per ... ? I'm going to be working in as close to 2x2 sections as I can, so should I expect to be applying these 2-4 dabs per 2x2 section? Or per panel on the vehicle? Again, the how-to's didn't really answer this convincingly enough for my anal-retentive brain. Sorry. LOL

Thanks for the clarification!

Wes :buffing:

[embolism]

I think they specify factory paints b/c the system works best on harder clears. That said, people have used them on repaints before with no issues.

There is no rule that you have to use the same process on the entire car. Do a test spot using the D300 and D301 on both factory and repainted sections and judge the results for yourself. You may opt to finish polish the repainted sections with foam and a DAT polish if there are noticeable differences between the two sections.

[2old2change]

The Meguiars M/F system will work fine on aftermarket paint as well as it does on factory oem paint. Now all painted surfaces are not identical and you will have a trial and error period as you find out what works best for you and the surface you have at hand. The application is per 2x2 or whatever small area you are working. The M/F should be cleaned or blown free of product often which is usually after each panel. This again will be a trial and error process. remember cleaner is better. If you want to gain a little confidence before tackling a nice car or truck , try a hood or fender discarded from local body shop or a old clunker from a friend or family member. Jump in and get your feet wet , you're gonna love it.:buffing:

[john b]

Hey guys & girls. I know this is a "noob" question that's likely been answered before, but I SWEAR that I just spent 1/2 an hour google searching, and didn't come across clear answers on a couple questions I have (after watching about 10 different how-to's on this product). Mainly:

1) Many instructional videos (including AG's) stress over and over that this is for "FACTORY / OEM" finishes. Back in one of my introductory threads here I mentioned that my hood and front and rear bumpers are re-paints, and I inquired about using this system on repainted panels. Nobody jumped out and said "DON'T DO IT!", and a few people actually said it'll be fine since the paint is almost a year old. Now that I've actually got the products and I'm ready to get to work, I just wanted to verify this again; especially since I've read a little more on repainted surfaces often finishing poorly with ANY chemical and DA polisher. These statements scared me off a bit.

2) Amount of product. As I said above, I've seen lots of how-to's on this product. Unfortunately all the demos I've seen were of little 2x2 areas and nothing more. So I know how to prime the pad, and I know that very little (2-4 pea sized dabs) product is required, but I'm a little confused as to whether this amount of product is suggested per section, per panel, or per ... ? I'm going to be working in as close to 2x2 sections as I can, so should I expect to be applying these 2-4 dabs per 2x2 section? Or per panel on the vehicle? Again, the how-to's didn't really answer this convincingly enough for my anal-retentive brain. Sorry. LOL

Thanks for the clarification!

Wes :buffing:
that would be per 2 by 2 and i usually clean the pad at least once per panel

[Belair]

In using the system this week on our car I brushed the pad after every 2X2 section then applied 2 more dabs of product. If I tried to do more without brushing & applying, my pad seemed to get dry and the fibers were flat, even though I primed it before I began. Maybe there's something wrong with my technique, I DK, but that's what I did and the results were really good.

[RaskyR1]

It should work fine on fully cured aftermarket paint, but you should do a test spot on each panel to be sure. I think it's more for fresh paints, but I have had D300 finish virtually LSP ready on some repaints, but I've also had it leave behind significant micro marring on a fully cured repaint too.

I tend to work in sections more a little smaller than 2' x 2' but definitely no larger than that. I blow my pads out after each section and apply 3-4 small drops for each section.

Even if D300 leaves behind micro marring, you can easily clean it up with a finishing polish and a foam pad. 106fa/foam has never let me down on a finicky paint! :props:


Hope this helps,
Rasky

[Wes8398]

Many thanks guys. I guess all I can do is try and see what happens. Unfortunately a 'test spot' on a hood is kind of pointless, but I'll just cross my fingers. I will be following up the 2 step MF DA system with Collinite 845 applied via 5.5" crimson HydroTech pads, so hopefully that'll all turn out to a glorious glass-like finish, without any issues on the repainted surfaces. Wish me luck! :)

[PAR Detailing]

In my experience I have not had any issues with non factory paint. Once the compound didnt finish down as well as the factory paint but that was the only time.

Good luck and keep at it! Play with the amount of product if you are not getting the results you desire along with speed and pressure.

Post pictures when youre done.

[Wes8398]

Fingers are crossed. My weekend slipped away and I didn't get a chance to get at it. Soon though.