Wet look desired on 2004 GMC white truck

[silvermesa]

Hello all!

I am a first time poster and joined the forum yesterday.

I have a white 2004 GMC Dually Crew Cab that is in need of a correction and wax. It has never been waxed and the swirl marks are medium in nature with few scratches. The scratches that are present are in the clear coat and not thru the paint. I do have some small light rust marks that appear to be the size of a pencil lead coming thru the paint as well.

Just learning about this because things have changed a lot since I last took good care of a vehicle which was in high school, I am now 46. Turning over a new leaf.

I have seen some photos of white vehicles that have a wet shiny look and I would like to attempt this on my truck. I drive this vehicle everyday and see myself doing a complete detailing of the exterior twice per year.

I am planning on ordering a Griots GG6 DA Polisher with the 25' Chord and ordering a 5" backing plate and 3.5" backing plate to replace the 6" that comes with it.

Please give me your recommendation for the following:

1)Brand or model of 5" backing plate needed for pad combo?
2)Pads?
3)Rust mark removal
4)Correction Material?
5)Sealant and or wax for wet shiny look. Also durable for winter?
6)Tar remover/ hopefully a liquid that can be washed on vehicle since tar will be fairly heavy.
7) Any other thoughts appreciated!

PS I am looking for materials that perform but are relatively easy to work with.

Thank You!

[rider9195]

Try using the search feature on the site. It will give you many threads with the same questions and lots of answers.

[bobble]

I'll drop my opinions here and take them for what they are worth:

Backing Plate - Lake Country
Pads - Lake Country CCS or Flat pads
Rust issue - needs pics but only way is bodywork/repaint
Corrrection - without seeing pictures this will be hard to answer, probably pretty subjective but Megs105/205 combo will cover most bases
Sealant/wax - again a subjective topic but on white I like Duragloss 601/105 followed by Collinite 845(all are very easy to use and inexpensive)
Tar remover - Try Stoner Tarminator first
Other items quality MF towels, soaps and wash media, two buckets, grit guards

On the backing plate, pads and polish items another alternative is the all encompassing Megs MicroFiber system. It consists of two pads cut and finish and a polish and finishing wax hybrid. You could go this way and eliminate everything else except the Collinite 845 as a topper for a starting point to make things simpler. I have no personal experience with this system, I'm an old school foam pad guy.

[TLMitchell]

I have a white 2004 GMC Dually Crew Cab that is in need of a correction and wax. It has never been waxed and the swirl marks are medium in nature with few scratches. The scratches that are present are in the clear coat and not thru the paint. I do have some small light rust marks that appear to be the size of a pencil lead coming thru the paint as well.

I have seen some photos of white vehicles that have a wet shiny look and I would like to attempt this on my truck.

Thinking about this kinda look?

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww304/tlmitchell99/Truck%20Detail/IMG_0426Small.jpg

2004 Sierra DD with 91k on the clock after 8 NE Ohio winters


I am planning on ordering a Griots GG6 DA Polisher with the 25' Chord and ordering a 5" backing plate and 3.5" backing plate to replace the 6" that comes with it.

Please give me your recommendation for the following:

1)Brand or model of 5" backing plate needed for pad combo?
2)Pads?
3)Rust mark removal
4)Correction Material?
5)Sealant and or wax for wet shiny look. Also durable for winter?
6)Tar remover/ hopefully a liquid that can be washed on vehicle since tar will be fairly heavy.
7) Any other thoughts appreciated!

PS I am looking for materials that perform but are relatively easy to work with.


That shine was achieving using a GG DA and Meguiar's Microfiber DA System, for my money the easiest method of correction for a new DA user. I used the D300 correcting fluid with 5.5" MF pads. I skipped the Finishing Wax as I was pleased with the results, LSP was Collinite 845IW. Brilliant shine on white with incredible durability and ease of use.

The MF DA System simplifies a lot... no purchase of multiple colors of pads and the backing plates come with the kits if you purchase it that way. The 3.5" pads work well around door frames, pillars, rockers and the top of the bed rails, Megs recommends their own backing plates for these pads. I took off the BP that came with the GG and it's still in back of the detailing cabinet somewhere.... smaller pads correct better and are easier to handle.

I'd recommend the 5.5" MF DA kit and perhaps a few 3+" pads and backing plate. If you use the Finishing Wax to refine the finish top with 845. Plan on taping off black trim, the Meg's fluids will stain it. 845 doesn't stain and is actually a nice topper and protection for the window trim.

Car Pro Tar-X for tar removal, it runs right off with no nasty solvents
Car Pro Iron X will take care of iron contamination and clay will remove the rest of the impurities before you begin correction, I used Clay Magic Blue on this one.

TL <--- loves white done right :xyxthumbs:

[silvermesa]

Here are a couple of photos of truck at 6:30 pm. I wish I would have taken these earlier in the day to show the medium swirls when the sun was shining more. The photo of the rust spots show tar and dirt as well. Washed a month ago so dirty.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b446/silvermesa4/IMG_1155.jpg

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b446/silvermesa4/IMG_1157.jpg

[pixelmonkey]

might recommend some ironX to be used as well.

chris<pixelmonkey>:D

[TLMitchell]

Those rust-colored dots are fairly common on white that hasn't been kept up. I'd probably hit the tar with Tar-X and let it sit until it starts to run then give it a wash. Iron-X will take care of the rust dots and I'm betting you'll be amazed how much iron contamination appears when it turns purple and starts running. Rewash, clay and get to polishin'.

On that body style I found the the hood panels between the fender swell and the lower center of the hood is an excellent place for test spots. It allows you good leverage to experiment with leaning into the polisher if you need to. From the cowl trim to the front it gives you a good 3 sections on each side to experiment with test spots. Nice thing about the Meg's MF DA System is you control the amount of correction by how long you work the compound and how much pressure you apply. On a GG6 run the polisher at 4 - 4.5 and lean into it until the pad is just barely turning for stout correction. Then ease off for a couple of light passes and let the pad spin up a bit to polish out any marring the correction might leave. You'll have to experiment a bit until you get the hang of it as the MF system is a bit different technique-wise than other compounds/polishes and foam pads. DO seek out the MF DA threads discussing technique, especially pay attention to working "clean". Cleaning the pads after each pass with either a brush or compressed air and wiping any residue off is imperative to realize the potential of this system. The other real important thing is not to use too much product. Once the pad is primed you only need a couple of small dots of correcting fluid for each subsequent pass. At least you won't have anything to unlearn after using other methods. If you decide to follow up with the Finishing Wax use 3 - 3.5 speed on the GG and lighter pressure. That's assuming you decide to use the Meg's system...

I have to commend you on your excellent taste in vehicles, great minds think alike. I just finished putting a set of full-length, color coordinated Owens boards on the Silverado I swapped the Sierra for.

The old and the new... I think I'm in a rut.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww304/tlmitchell99/Silverado%201st%20Megs%20MF%20detail/Old-New.jpg

TL

[silvermesa]

Took an additional photo this morning to show swirl mark condition.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b446/silvermesa4/IMG_1162.jpg

[ScubaCougr]

The last photo doesn't look real bad in terms of depth to me, just normal wear-tear for the age. And since it's your own DD, you might try Wolfgang TSR which finishes down nicely in one step.

I've avoided 105 because it has a reputation for being difficult to use. You probably have enough to keep track of your first time, without that added burden (flame suit on....)

[5.4 Shelby]

As others said,

Iron-X for the rust.

Good paint clay for the other contaminants.

MF DA system. You will be happy with both the correction compund and finshing wax. I used it on my daughters car in April. Wax is still beading nicely today.

[flyinion]

The last photo doesn't look real bad in terms of depth to me, just normal wear-tear for the age. And since it's your own DD, you might try Wolfgang TSR which finishes down nicely in one step.

I've avoided 105 because it has a reputation for being difficult to use. You probably have enough to keep track of your first time, without that added burden (flame suit on....)


+1 on the TSR. I was skeptical about a medium compound finishing down LSP ready but I've seen it twice now. Once on a black vehicle (which probably could have benefited from a light polish if the paint was in better shape) and once on my silver car. Light colored vehicles you're definitely set with it as a one step swirl remove/polish I think. Of course, you'd want to switch to a light polish next time once you used it to get the bad stuff out the first time around.