better than a foam pad for correction

[ride5150]

i really dont like how foam pads wear out semi-quick. when you first take it out its nice and firm, but then after a few passes it gets saturated with product and just feels gooey. is there anything out there that maintains its level of correction for a long time? the megs MF system pads? surbuff pads? the LC purple foamed wool pad?

i hate doing multiple applications of m105 on an area to get everything out, id like to cut down on the time required to do a paint correction. sure sometimes itll need multiple applications, but im looking for a better way to do things.

right now i use a GG DA polisher, my harshest combo is yellow LC pads with m105.

[rider9195]

Surbuff pads cut fast from what I have heard. I would pick up a pack of them and even some MF cutting pads to try with the 105. I didn't like how the PFW worked with a DA polisher much.

[tuscarora dave]

Get the Meg's MF discs and be prepared to blow through a few of them until you figure out how little product to use with them. Have you ever considered getting a rotary?

[Indy YZF]

You aren't kidding, I've toasted 4. I re-watched the video and realized I was using way too much product. oops.

[ride5150]

Surbuff pads cut fast from what I have heard. I would pick up a pack of them and even some MF cutting pads to try with the 105. I didn't like how the PFW worked with a DA polisher much.


Get the Meg's MF discs and be prepared to blow through a few of them until you figure out how little product to use with them. Have you ever considered getting a rotary?


im thinking about picking up some surbuffs now. can you use the MF discs with m105? do they cut more than a yellow foam pad or the purple foamed wool pad?

i have thought about a rotary, but if i can get a close amount of correction with something that is a lot safer id rather do that.

has anyone used a flex 3401 with a surbuff pad? or a wool pad? id imagine that correction would be pretty good.

[truckbutt]

If your pads are saturated and squishy, you're using way too much product.
I see alot of posts with people looking for a product, rather then a technique to solve their problem. As far as I'm concerned, more important to whether you choose the MF system or LC pads or Surbuf pads, is to practice with one system and get proficient with it. I see too many people jumping from one product to another in hopes of finding the latest, greatest thing. Detailing is a craft. The people who are good at it are so because they work at it. I find that many of the most experienced detailers on this forum are still using LC pads and M105/M205. It's good to try new things, but its not a substitute for working at it. (Sorry, I know it sounds kind of preachy ;))

[Ryan R]

If your pads are saturated and squishy, you're using way too much product.
I see alot of posts with people looking for a product, rather then a technique to solve their problem. As far as I'm concerned, more important to whether you choose the MF system or LC pads or Surbuf pads, is to practice with one system and get proficient with it. I see too many people jumping from one product to another in hopes of finding the latest, greatest thing. Detailing is a craft. The people who are good at it are so because they work at it. I find that many of the most experienced detailers on this forum are still using LC pads and M105/M205. It's good to try new things, but its not a substitute for working at it.

Very well said

[tuscarora dave]

The little that I did use the MF cutting discs I can say that yes they cut much faster with D300 than yellow foam pads do with M105. I would try the D300 out before trying 105 with the MF cutting discs. 105 can just be so troublesome to work with unless you're use a wetting agent with it and it seems to me that when the MF discs get wet or over saturated with product is when they delaminate. D300 is much more user friendly and has a much longer working time than 105 but slightly less cutting ability.

[tuscarora dave]

Very well said
I agree with this wholeheartedly, good post.

[ride5150]

If your pads are saturated and squishy, you're using way too much product.
I see alot of posts with people looking for a product, rather then a technique to solve their problem. As far as I'm concerned, more important to whether you choose the MF system or LC pads or Surbuf pads, is to practice with one system and get proficient with it. I see too many people jumping from one product to another in hopes of finding the latest, greatest thing. Detailing is a craft. The people who are good at it are so because they work at it. I find that many of the most experienced detailers on this forum are still using LC pads and M105/M205. It's good to try new things, but its not a substitute for working at it. (Sorry, I know it sounds kind of preachy ;))

no need to apologize:P its really not the pad saturation thats bothering me, its the "doing multiple applications" part that i dont like. im basically looking for a way to speed up the process of paint correction. im starting to think that a rotary is the way to go. the makita is cheaper than a flex and offers more correction, ive used one before so im not really scared to do damage.

i guess a rotary is what its gonna be, along with some wool pads and cutting foamed pads. ill use the GG DA for finishing work.

do you guys recommend a purple foamed wool pad or a tradition wool pad on a rotary?

[tuscarora dave]

Do you guys recommend a purple foamed wool pad or a tradition wool pad on a rotary?

PFW are nice but only last through a few tough jobs so I stick either with the 3M SuperBuff 2+2 or the Edge 2000 wool pads. Both are used with their own style of adapter and are perfectly centered every time. The extra cost is well worth not having an off centered wool pad tearing the paint up not to mention there will be zero vibration for your body to absorb for hours at a time. These pads have lasted me through dozens of tough compounding jobs.

[silverfox]

I only use foam at this point when I have to ...only when I can't get MF disc to finish down on finicky soft paint and applying glazes or sealants. Can't wait for the release of Optimum's new MF buffing pads. Dr G never disappoints.

[VR8]

I've seen some pretty intense correction from a Griot's buffer and the SurBuf pads with Meg's #105. The SurBuf requires constant cleaning and of course the dust is horrendous, but the finish is almost LSP ready. Some clears will of course require more than one pass. The typical Honda is a breeze and the typical Mercedes is full of aggrivation.

In the end it always comes down to your opinion of what you like the best and what seems most effective to you. I personally can't get any quicker of a correction with my Makita than I can with my Flex. Go figure.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

In the end it always comes down to your opinion of what you like the best and what seems most effective to you. I personally can't get any quicker of a correction with my Makita than I can with my Flex. Go figure.
So, you're saying you can get just as good of correction with your 3401 compared to a rotary?

[VR8]

So, you're saying you can get just as good of correction with your 3401 compared to a rotary?

Yes. My comfort level with the Flex is far beyond that with the Makita, therefore I'm more aggressive when I need to be, therefore I get better results. Not saying anything about the actual power of the Makita over the Flex.