4`` pad question

[BlueGenCoupe]

I made a thread in wrong section so Im moving it to the appropriate location.

After reading online and looking at the products I was thinking of getting 4" pads for the makita just for tight areas. From my understanding and what from people from another company said, using 4" pads on a powerful machine like the Makita could cause a lot of heat and possibly burn through the paint. If thats the case then why is there a LC 2 3/4 hook n loop backing plate for a rotary?

Rotary Flexible Backing Plate, lake country rotary backing plates, makita 9227 backing plate, dewalt 849 backing plate, circular backing plate (http://www.autogeek.net/lc43175.html)

Im interested in buying some 4`` pads/backing plate, but I`d like to hear what the pros have to say.

[Mike Phillips]

Small pads on rotary buffers can be the right pad for the job but just like using a large pad on a rotary buffer you have to use good technique and focus on the task at hand.

I'm planning on having the Flex PE14 outfitted with 3.5" pads for the Can Am Corvette project coming up this week.

This Thursday Night...
Dave's 1977 CanAm Corvette...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1261/600_1977CanAmCorvette01.jpg
Click here to sign-up for this event or to get more information... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/sign-up-open-garage-classes/40900-sign-up-1977-canam-corvette-extreme-makeover-thursday-september-22nd.html)


Recently, the 3.5" pads saved the day when it came to buffing out in tight places and also around delicate hand-painted pin stripes...


From page of this thread,


Bumblebee - Testing out the NEW DeWALT DWP849X (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/37831-bumblebee-testing-out-new-dewalt-dwp849x.html)

Previously all the compounding has been done using the new DeWALT DWP849X, now I'm switching over to the Flex PE14, already I like the smaller size and lighter weight, especially for any of the places where I have to be real careful.


These small, 3" foam pads work really well for buffing around,


Delicate areas
Thin panels
Edges


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0028.jpg



Pinstriping paint tends to be more on the soft side versus hard side so you don't want to run your buffing pads over any pinstripes but you do want to buff as close to them as you can. In this picture I'm using an extension to position the pad a little farther away from the polisher so I can more easily see where the edge of my buffing pad is on the panel.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0029.jpg


When buffing thin panels, or working next to edges, hold the rotary buffer with a firm grip and focus on the task at hand...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0030.jpg


Edging - Buffing along an edge to knock it out before buffing out the rest of the major portions of the panel. By edging a panel first you don't have to buff near the edges as close when you switch over to a larger pad to buff out the panel.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0031.jpg



More uses for small pads shown in this thread,

Previously all the compounding has been done using the new DeWALT DWP849X, now I'm switching over to the Flex PE14, already I like the smaller size and lighter weight, especially for any of the places where I have to be real careful.


These small, 3" foam pads work really well for buffing around,


Delicate areas
Thin panels
Edges


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0028.jpg



Pinstriping paint tends to be more on the soft side versus hard side so you don't want to run your buffing pads over any pinstripes but you do want to buff as close to them as you can. In this picture I'm using an extension to position the pad a little farther away from the polisher so I can more easily see where the edge of my buffing pad is on the panel.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0029.jpg


When buffing thin panels, or working next to edges, hold the rotary buffer with a firm grip and focus on the task at hand...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0030.jpg


Edging - Buffing along an edge to knock it out before buffing out the rest of the major portions of the panel. By edging a panel first you don't have to buff near the edges as close when you switch over to a larger pad to buff out the panel.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0031.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0022.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0023.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0024.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0025.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0026.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0027.jpg



I have some 3" pads that are not actually available. I asked Eric Dunn for these late last year and have been using them with great results. You can also see I'm using an Optimum Optimum Double-Sided Rotary Adapter (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-rotary-adapter.html) attached to a 2-3/4 inch Hook & Loop Rotary Backing Plate (http://www.autogeek.net/2vebapl.html) with these small rotary buffer pads.


The adapter acts as an extension which allows me to better see where the pads touching the paint as I buff and also works sometimes to give you enough clearance to buff into tight areas.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0020.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1202/49SedanDelivery0021.jpg


Before buffing out a tight, curved area like above you want to prime the outside of your buffing pad and then smear a little product on the paint itself with your finger as shown in this thread,


Before buffing out a tight, curved area like above you want to prime the outside of your buffing pad and then smear a little product on the paint itself with your finger as shown in this thread,

If it has paint... it gets polished... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/23865-if-has-paint-gets-polished.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections006.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections005.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections007.jpg

[courtdale]

Just stocked up on the 4" pads and small backing plate for this exact reason. My 8'5's are obviously too big for certain sections. I'm also using the Makita.

[opie_7afe]

bluegencoupe sent me a pm about this issue so i will paste my reply in here to help others that may have the same questions about the smaller backing plates...
smaller pads concentrate the polishing area so yes you have a higher chance to burn paint, however if you keep the pad moving you should be ok. most use the 4" pads for certain areas like the A pillars or the window trim some cars have. for me if i had 4" pads i would be using them for headlight/tail light restoration. and the smaller areas that are harder to hit with the larger pads.you are not wrong at all they do cause more heat and more of a chance to burn through the clear, but if you keep the pad moving and you don't sit there polishing a small area for a while you should be good. now what i do with any pad with my rotary is shut rotary off for a second and feel surface temp, if its feeling a bit warm i wipe off residue and let panel cool before i do another pass if needed. good luck with your research on the smaller pads...good luck and mike phillips has great information i would 100% take his advice!:buffing:

[Mike Phillips]

From my understanding and what from people from another company said, using 4" pads on a powerful machine like the Makita could cause a lot of heat and possibly burn through the paint.




Here's a technique I use to help me avoid getting paint too hot...

Fight or Flight Method for Gaging Surface Temperature (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/22325-fight-flight-method-gaging-surface-temperature.html)



Buffing out a large section isn't so much a problem because the heat you create in one area of paint will dissipate as you move the buffing pad onto a different section of the area you're buffing out.

It's when you restrict your buffing area to a small section that you have to be careful and pay attention to how long you buff in that area.

Foam cutting pads generate heat faster than wool cutting pads so also keep that in mind.


:)

[slimnib]

Can that quality work be done with a DA?

[opie_7afe]

of course quality work can be done with the DA thanks to advances in polishing/compound technology. the only difference is a rotary you can get stuff done faster but thats a variable as some paints can be corrected easily while some take longer..but as far as your question goes yes you can get that quality of work with a DA. for future reference learn how to quote without quoting the whole post. in my opinion quoting a whole post with a good deal of pictures clutters up a persons thread!.

[Mike Phillips]

of course quality work can be done with the DA thanks to advances in polishing/compound technology. the only difference is a rotary you can get stuff done faster but thats a variable as some paints can be corrected easily while some take longer..but as far as your question goes yes you can get that quality of work with a DA.


The rotary has a lot more correction ability and can remove defects faster and then polish the paint till it's amazingly clear and glossy but with practice, patience and perspiration you can get show car quality work using only a DA Polisher.

Rotary buffers offer more ability to remove defects in hard to buff areas if you're using the right pad, backing plate a an adapter like you see here,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1261/CanAmCorvette003.jpg


In part that's because these are direct drive tools whereas the PC style have a safety feature that prevents you from causing any harm but it can also prevent you from removing defects as fast or well as the rotary buffer.






for future reference learn how to quote without quoting the whole post. in my opinion quoting a whole post with a good deal of pictures clutters up a persons thread!.

I remember when I first started posting to a vBulletin forum, I didn't know anything about how proper forum netiquette or how to really work inside the vBulletin options for constructing messages. Here are two articles that show how to get more use out of vBulletin when composing a thread or a reply.

How to use the "Editor Mode" to break a single quoted message up into smaller quoted sections (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/20690-how-use-editor-mode-break-single-quoted-message-up-into-smaller-quoted-sections.html)

How to expand the message box (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/23245-how-expand-message-box.html)


(I fixed the quoted post)


:)

[BlueGenCoupe]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I got another question....I purchased the The Edge 2000 PLUS 8 Inch Wool Buffing Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/edge-8inch-wool-pads.html) and I bought the Optimum Double-Sided Rotary Adapter, double sided pad adapter, optimum center adapter (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-rotary-adapter.html).

Is this the right adapter?? :confused::confused::confused::confused:

Or is this the one...3M Quick Release Adaptor, 3M adapter for double sided pads, (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-quick-release-adapter.html)

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I got another question....I purchased the The Edge 2000 PLUS 8 Inch Wool Buffing Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/edge-8inch-wool-pads.html) and I bought the Optimum Double-Sided Rotary Adapter, double sided pad adapter, optimum center adapter (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-rotary-adapter.html).

Is this the right adapter?? :confused::confused::confused::confused:

Or is this the one...3M Quick Release Adaptor, 3M adapter for double sided pads, (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-quick-release-adapter.html)


I have an article for these pads and the adapters...


Below is an excerpt from the article, more pictures and information by clicking the link...

The Edge 8" Black 100% Domestic Wool Heavy Cut Pad (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wool-foam-buffing-pads/22470-edge-black-100-domestic-wool-heavy-cut-pad.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad002.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad012.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad013.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad014.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad015.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad016.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad017.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad018.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/EdgeBlackHeavyCutWoolPad019.jpg



:)

[BlueGenCoupe]

Ahhh crapppoooollaaa....looks like i'll be returning some stuff as soon as my package arrives....and it looks like I need to place another order....You guys are killing me LOL

Thanks guys for your help

[skipper1]

Hey Mike,
Those 3.5" foam pads you're using, who makes them? I can't seem to find them here at AG.

[CEE DOG]

......smaller pads concentrate the polishing area so yes you have a higher chance to burn paint.....


Maybe I'm missing something but if you are using a rotary then the opposite should be true. The larger the pad the faster the outside diameter of that pad has to move to get around 1 time in the same amount of time a smaller pad gets around one time. Therefore the friction would be greater with a larger pad and generate more heat as it is moving much faster on the outside... Unless of course you were using the same amount of pressure for both the small and large pad which of course would increase the friction on the smaller pad relative to the larger pad.



.....now what i do with any pad with my rotary is shut rotary off for a second and feel surface temp, if its feeling a bit warm i wipe off residue and let panel cool before i do another pass if needed....


Interesting, I can't imagine stopping if it's just a bit warm. My paint is at the very least very warm when I check it.

[opie_7afe]

i mean exactly what mike phillips says about panel heat, warm was the wrong word for sure lol.i wonder if single stage gets warmer faster then basecoat clearcoat....i haven't really noticed..i just watch the heat mainly when i'm buffing on plastic/urethane bumpers...most don't know to lighten up the pressure when you switch to a smaller pad but also is the reason why i said he will need to adjust method when switching to a smaller pad...most people should err on the side of caution anyways with doing a jump in pad diameters with a rotary(if new to one anyways)...hope that came out ok, lol im not the best writer but i try my best

[skipper1]

Hey Mike,
Those 3.5" foam pads you're using, who makes them? I can't seem to find them here at AG.

Hello! Anyone.