Misting Your Pads With Water

[Flip]

How well do you mist your pads with water when using swirl removers and polishes?
It seems like the swirl remover works in a little better if i continue to mist the pad.

Can too much hurt? How much is too much!! What works for you guys?

[mswerb]

I will use a Quick Detailer on my pads pryor to use. Never tried water.

[Alex Boyce]

I use to use a QD when I first grabbed a pad, but lately I've been on the m105/205 kick and have been just using a bit extra product for the initial pass so the pad is fully primed.

But come to think of it I use a universal pad washer and after doing a panel or so I clean the pad and always have a very damp pad and it works very well there after.

So I don't mist the pads with water but I probably have the same experiences as you once my pad has been through the pad washer.

[oldmodman]

I use my cheapest QD (Meguiar's) with every polish except for 105.

For 105 I put three drops of baby oil on the pad. I nearly eliminates the dusting and also extends working time. Just remember to either re-wash the car after polishing or use Isopropyl or mineral spirits as a wipedown before you apply your wax or sealant.

[buddhadog]

I use a very light mist of water .

[JSMet]

I'm like Oldmodman; I'll use a light mist of water or mineral oil when working with M105 with a alcohol mixed with water wipe down after each panel. It prevents dry buffing and cuts way down on dusting, which drives me nuts.

[BobbyG]

I use my cheapest QD (Meguiar's) with every polish except for 105.

For 105 I put three drops of baby oil on the pad. I nearly eliminates the dusting and also extends working time. Just remember to either re-wash the car after polishing or use Isopropyl or mineral spirits as a wipedown before you apply your wax or sealant.

I do the same..

[cutter]

I use my cheapest QD (Meguiar's) with every polish except for 105.

For 105 I put three drops of baby oil on the pad. I nearly eliminates the dusting and also extends working time. Just remember to either re-wash the car after polishing or use Isopropyl or mineral spirits as a wipedown before you apply your wax or sealant.


Good tip!!! Thank you!!

[rider9195]

For 105 I put three drops of baby oil on the pad. I nearly eliminates the dusting and also extends working time. Just remember to either re-wash the car after polishing or use Isopropyl or mineral spirits as a wipedown before you apply your wax or sealant.

Will have to try that out. Thanks for sharing!

[truckbutt]

As above, I prime my pads with Megs QD. For 105 I follow the Kevin Brown Method and use a mist of distilled water. I don't like mineral oil as it makes it harder to clean the pad on the fly in a Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer. The 105 by itself is water soluble. I could care less about the dust.

[SuperGlide]

few sprays of body gloss, dont go to crazy
most products need the right amount of heat
to break down and work properly. To much lubricant
and your not getting the full potential from your
product.

[master detailer]

h2o its free

[Flip]

Would ONR diluted to a QD be a good choice?

[Twister]

I've always used water. Its cheaper than water, I might give QD a try to see if I notice any difference. Just a slight mist is all I do

[StephenK]

a couple of you have metioned using baby oil/mineral oil well this topic has been brought up before and here are a couple post from thaty other thread.
MIKE PHILLIPS
I was traveling all last week for a special project and when working with Operation Comfort and saw this thread but haven't carved out the time to reply till just now...

First, anyone that's been reading my posts since 1994 knows I always say,

"Find something that you like and use it often"


This just means, exactly what it says, so if you find adding mineral oil to your pad when using M105 then that's your business and your "system".


With that said, since starting to post how-to information to the "Internet" starting in 1994 my normal reply to any thread where people are mixing chemicals and product trying to reach a desired end-result, to follow the manufactures directions.

If the manufacture recommends adding something to the product then by all means follow their directions, if they don't then it could be there's a reason for this.

So I've sent the link to this thread to Mike Pennington, the Director of Training at Meguiar's and also to Jason Rose, the Product Manager for the Professional Line just so that they are aware of this new idea being posted as a way to improve M105 and/or Ultimate Compound.


I'm not a big fan of people mixing chemicals because in most cases it can alter the performance of a product in a negative way. That may or may not be the case in this example, I don't know, that's why I've forwarded the link to this thread to people with the ability to talk to the chemist that created the formula.


It is safe to say that at this time this is not an official recommendation from Meguiar's.

JASON ROSE
Pardon me....may I have this dance?

I wanted to cut in on this conversation...pun intented. haha.

This is my first post to AutoGeek. My name is Jason Rose. I am on the product development team for Meguiar's Professional Products. I was intimately involved in the development of M105, and the subsequent tweak to the formula a year after it's product launch. Many folks worked on the project, so I am speaking for the development team.

Thank you Mike Phillips for inviting me to the thread. As a service to AutoGeek, and ultimately to detailers, I would like to get engaged in this topic to enhance clarity (haha, another pun intended) and help with understanding M105.

In general, Meguiar's does not endorse mixing products in an attempt to modify intended results. But we understand that the practice exists out there, and we frankly can't stop anyone from doing it. Just know that anytime you mix two products together, the results may be unpreditable at best, and sometimes unsafe. Be careful please. No one should be getting hurt in the quest for the ultimate compound or polish. Machine polishing cars should be a safe activity. (We feel compeled to say this in a forum environment because people reading about mixing stuff could interpret that mixing stuff is ok, when in some cases it is definately a safety risk.)

Now, adding oil to M105...

First off, M105 is a "universal compound" meaning it is formulated for a variety of applications, paint types, pads, and climates. So with all the variables thrown at M105, it is not going to perform perfectly for every user everytime. Like any and all compounds, the application method, user technique, pad type, climate, defects, and paint type will impact results...and performance will vary.

M105's primary performance target was for rotary application. DA performance secondary. It works exceptionally with a DA, based on global validation and per testimonials from many detailers like yourself. The buffing cycle was dialed in for rotary and DA application, so in most cases you should not need to add anything to extend it.

Without getting too deep into all the variables...I would like to comment on the two issues mentioned; "short working time" and "dusty." My comments that follow are about DA application only.

Dust flying:
Some dusting with a universal compound being DA applied is normal. If you completely elimated the product from dusting, that fix would now have negative impacts on performance with a rotary application. But if you are getting excessive dusting from M105 with a DA application, then you may be using too much product. Once the pad is properly primed, a small amount of product is all that is needed.

Short working time:
Unfortunately buffing cycle and working time is a variable that represents user preferences. Some like a long cycle. Some like it short. But if you get a pasty sticky white residue on the paint during a short application of M105, then this result is not intended. It may be extremes in climate impacting the buffing cycle, or again, could be too much product being applied to the pad or paint. Another potential contributor could be a loaded up pad, which needs to be frequently cleaned.

In general, M105 works best with a DA application by using slow methodical overlapping passes over a 2x2 area on the paint. Once the pad is properly primed...and this may seem counter-intuitive to some...but a small amount of product will actually extend your buffing cycle and give you longer working time.

Adding mineral spirits or minieral oil may extend the working time, but can have other adverse effects on results. One might experience premature pad loading, temporary paint defect filling, paint swelling, and reduced cut rate. Or, a combination of all of these.

My recommendation would be to try the following for DA application of M105:
slower passes
smaller area
less product (after priming)
moderate downward pressure until the end of the buffing cycle
clean pad frequently
Please let me know your results! I am eager to hear your feedback.
Jason

those are just a couple replies in that other thread by 2 people that know the Meg line probably better than anybody else. below is a link to the actual thread
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/29674-cure-m105-s-short-working-time-dusting-issues.html