Deep Scratch Process - Double Check Me Please!

[hollerstiltner]

The other day my new baby received a deep scratch in the door. It's about 3/4 inch long and 1/8 inch wide. The scratch is into the primer, but not to the metal. I'm wanting to attempt to correct this myself, but want the experts here to make sure I'm not about to ruin my truck.

My plan is to order the correct base coat and clear coat pens for my truck (Toyota Magnetic Grey). Apply a thin layer of paint into the scratch, followed by the clear coat after letting the paint dry for 24hrs.

Here's the part the I'm a bit afraid of. I'm wanting to tape off the tiny area and wet sanding it with 2500 or 3000 grit paper using a rubber eraser as a sanding block. After it's level, I have some Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 that I'm going to hand polish the area with. I'm not opposed to trying to find another product if need be though.

What part of the process am I missing? Seems like there should be something that I'm leaving out. I know it won't end up perfect, but I want it as good as possible. My poor Taco has under 10K on it. I don't want her to feel ugly the rest of her life...

Thanks,
Chris

[tag4car]

Use a prep chemical prior to applying any paint, make sure paint is thoroughly mixed, use very light amounts on the brush, very light pressure on the brush-try to let the paint wick into the scratch, lubricate the sandpaper with a water/wash soap mix, I'm sure others can chime in with more. I'm about to do the same thing on my cobra, ugh..

[hollerstiltner]

Do you think that I could use alcohol instead of the prep chemical? I know a lot of members here use it to clean their cars so sealant and stuff will stick. Only other thing I have around here is a bottle of acetone.

[Blackthorn One]

You can feather the edges of the scratch with sandpaper to make the repair less obvious, but I would not sand it level. Mineral Spirits works well to clean the area prior to painting. I believe that Acetone is too strong. I would not use it.

[hollerstiltner]

Blackthorn One, why would you not level it?

[Blackthorn One]

Blackthorn One, why would you not level it?

Because the point of touch up is to fill the scratch with paint and conserve the surrounding paint so as to be as easy as possible.

If you level the paint down to the primer, how wide an area of leveling are we talking about? A half inch strip?
Now you have a much larger area to have to paint, and in fact a larger area to attempt to blend, which will make it all the more easy to see that a repair has been made. Smaller repaired areas are less noticeable than larger ones. By conserving as much surrounding paint as possible just by feather edging, you keep the area the least noticeable.



By feather edging I mean sanding the edges of the scratch so that it blends smoothly with the surrounding paint so that it no longer catches your fingernail. You don't need to sand any more than that. Feather edging allows a more gradual transition of touched up area to the surrounding paint, as opposed to a hard line where the two meet.
Maybe feather edging is what you really mean to do. If you really want to level the whole thing down to make it absolutely perfect, you might as well respray the entire panel. Then it will be perfect.

[Mike Phillips]

The other day my new baby received a deep scratch in the door. It's about 3/4 inch long and 1/8 inch wide. The scratch is into the primer, but not to the metal. I'm wanting to attempt to correct this myself, but want the experts here to make sure I'm not about to ruin my truck.

Thanks,
Chris


Hi Chris,

A picture would sure help... http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/picture.gif

Here's some articles on working with pictures on the Internet, if you can teach yourself and master these first three picture related tasks you can share pictures on any forum.

If you're going to be active on ANY forum and want to share pictures with you're friends, just take some time to teach yourself how to resize, upload and insert. It works the same on just about any forum.

How to resize your photos before uploading to a photo gallery (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/35250-how-resize-your-photos-before-uploading-photo-gallery.html) - Using Easy Thumbnails

How to upload a photo into your Autogeek Photo Gallery (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-do-different-types-things-ag-discussion-forum/21295-how-upload-photo-into-your-autogeek-photo-gallery.html)

How to insert an image from your photo gallery into your message (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles-discussion-forums/21313-how-insert-image-your-photo-gallery-into-your-message.html)


Below are some other picture related articles that are helpful but you don't have to read them to get a picture into your message. Note the one on Photobucket... everyone is always recommending Photobucket and Flickr, etc. If you use one of these hosting accounts keep in mind that you only get a certain amount of space and after you use up all the FREE SPACE you either have to,



Upgrade to a Pro Account
Start DELETING photos to make room for new photos



If you delete photos because you don't want to pay for a paid account, then EVERYWHERE you shared the pictures you delete will turn into red x's or some type of graphic that states the photo no longer exists.

If you upload your photos to the Autogeek Gallery using the 3 how-to articles I posted links to above, then as long as Max continues to pay our hosting provider, (which will be forever), then you're pictures will always show up.


How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/26917-how-capture-swirls-scratches-etchings-other-surface-defects-your-camera.html)

How-to work with pictures on discussion forums (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles-discussion-forums/21320-how-work-pictures-discussion-forums.html)

How to crop out the fluff and resize your pictures! - Using FREE online software! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/23918-how-crop-out-fluff-resize-your-pictures-using-free-online-software.html)

Photobucket and Missing Pictures (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/23699-photobucket-missing-pictures.html)

Handiest little picture viewer tool I've been using for years now... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/26202-handiest-little-picture-viewer-tool-i-ve-been-using-years-now.html)


:)

[hollerstiltner]

Blackthorn, you and I seem to be on about the same page in what to do. I'm just not great at explaining things. My plan was to fill in the scratch with a thin coat of paint, to hopefully less than the level of the scratch. Then apply the clear, which will most likely end up above the level of the original paint. It's this higher area of fresh paint that I'm thinking of sanding down to as flush as I can get it with the original paint. I know it won't be perfect, but nearly anything would be an improvement.

It sounds like you've done this a time or two. Any advice on the paper grit to use and any techniques? I said 3K because I was thinking the finest scratches would be easier to remove by hand. I'd like to have a DA, but it's just not possible at this time. I'm also open to any other polishes that would be better than the scratch x. I read on another forum where Megs Ultimate Compound may work.

Mike, thank you for the links! I'll try to take some pictures as soon as I can to help everyone help me. My main camera is my Blackberry, I hope it's capable of a decent picture of the scratch. I tried to search the site for chip and scratch repair, but wasn't able to find something with enough pictures for me to follow it. (Im a visual/tactile learner)

[Blackthorn One]

Blackthorn, you and I seem to be on about the same page in what to do. I'm just not great at explaining things. My plan was to fill in the scratch with a thin coat of paint, to hopefully less than the level of the scratch. Then apply the clear, which will most likely end up above the level of the original paint. It's this higher area of fresh paint that I'm thinking of sanding down to as flush as I can get it with the original paint. I know it won't be perfect, but nearly anything would be an improvement.

It sounds like you've done this a time or two. Any advice on the paper grit to use and any techniques? I said 3K because I was thinking the finest scratches would be easier to remove by hand. I'd like to have a DA, but it's just not possible at this time. I'm also open to any other polishes that would be better than the scratch x. I read on another forum where Megs Ultimate Compound may work.

Mike, thank you for the links! I'll try to take some pictures as soon as I can to help everyone help me. My main camera is my Blackberry, I hope it's capable of a decent picture of the scratch. I tried to search the site for chip and scratch repair, but wasn't able to find something with enough pictures for me to follow it. (Im a visual/tactile learner)

First, I would mask the area surrounding the scratch, so as to reduce the amount of polishing you will need to do later. Then feather edge it. 3000 is too fine to feather edge with. You will just be wasting time and paper. Use 1200 or 1500 for that.


Then touch up with color to slightly above the level of the rest of the color. Then sand with 1200-1500 to make that color coat level with the rest. I know that you will have to eyeball it. When you touch up, remember that you may need 2 or 3 thin coats of paint per layer, because if you apply too much paint in one coat, it will either run, or it will bubble up days later, and you will need to redo it. The solvents need to evaporate from the paint as it dries, so it is best to go with thin coats in order to properly facilitate this without problems.

Once you have got your color coat done, then do the same with the clear. Build up enough clear so that it is just above the level of the surrounding paint. After three days, carefully sand the clear with 1500 to where it is almost done, then use 2000, 2500 and finally 3000 grit paper accordingly. Remove the masking tape from the surrounding area when you get to 2500-3000.

Put a few drops of car wash solution in a spray bottle with water and use it liberally to keep the sanding area wet. You want to prevent the paper from loading up with little pieces of paint, because if it loads, those little pieces of paint will gouge the paint with bad scratches, and you will need to polish over again, or possibly need to add another layer of paint once more and redo.

Soak the wet and dry sandpaper in water for 20 minutes or more before you use it.
Be careful with the paper when you sand. The edges of the paper can be very sharp and can scratch if you aren't careful. Don't press too hard when sanding. Let the paper do the work. (You can use pressure when sanding with 40 grit paper on wood, but paint is different)
Keep the paper flat, and use a flexible rubber sanding pad to keep it flat.

Check the paper every few strokes for loading. If it loads, then use another piece of the same grit of paper with some of the soapy water sprayed on it to clean it off, by rubbing the two pieces together.

Once you have sanded the area to blend it with the surrounding paint, keep in mind that the paint still needs time to cure, so if you apply too much heat by polishing or buffing, you will ruin your repair. I would try to avoid any real buffing for a week or two, because I am cautious. You can polish it a bit with compound by hand on just that small area, and then move up to a finer polish. Try to be even with your pressure so as not to instill finger marks in the paint, that look like streaks.

Polishing the panel with a DA last would make the area the most uniform, and yield the best possible result.

[hollerstiltner]

Finally got a pic of the spot to show what I'm dealing with. Yep, it's def an ugly something. Think I should change my plan of attack any?

There's also one more in my gallery, but it looks about like this one. Has a toyota key in it for size reference.

Blackthorn, that writeup is amazing. Thank you sir. That explains it better than anything else I've came across.

[Blackthorn One]

Finally got a pic of the spot to show what I'm dealing with. Yep, it's def an ugly something. Think I should change my plan of attack any?

There's also one more in my gallery, but it looks about like this one. Has a toyota key in it for size reference.

Blackthorn, that writeup is amazing. Thank you sir. That explains it better than anything else I've came across.

Thank you.
As far as approach, try not to sand the primer area at all, because you could very well go into the bare metal, which is something you really want to avoid. The possibility of going through the primer makes me rather nervous.

Try to sand the edge of the paint only. Even if you try to avoid the primer area as best you can, you will still likely sand the primer, but hopefully it will be just the right of minimal amount that is beneficial, and so it will be sanded a little inadvertently. If you sand through to the metal, you may want to use a little metal prep, and then dab some primer in there, and then lightly sand it smooth.

I think the most practical thing is to go for a light feathering, and not the degree of feathering that you would do with thicker paint, in which case you would clearly see the base coat as an inner line and the clear coat as an outer line. Just try and do it so it doesn't catch your fingernail too much. Just soften or round the edge a bit.