How to begin?

[DevildawgJJ]

I though I would come over here to post my question to get some more perspectives...

Here (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/introduce-yourself/37743-checking.html) is the link with my issues and products.

I read somewhere that I should start with the least aggressive method....then work backwords for results. True/False? I guess I'm a little hesitant because the UC says for severe paint imperfections, which I do not have, imho.

Semper Fi

[cutter]

Don't be afraid to try it....always do a 2x2 test spot first to be sure you are getting the results you are trying to achieve. The UC is very user friendly and has good working time. If you haven't already done this, take time to watch Mike's YouTube video on how to do a section pass. Good Luck with your project and :welcome: to Autogeek!

[Mike Phillips]

I though I would come over here to post my question to get some more perspectives...


Semper Fi


Thank you for serving our country.

Good idea to post your questions here versus buried in your intro post, lots of people do that and if I catch it I try to steer them to starting a dedicated thread in the right forum group because it will get more attention.


UC is a SMAT product so while it's capable of doing some serious correction work --> you <-- can control how aggressive it is by simply choosing a less or more aggressive pad and work it only a little or a lot as you can stop buffing at any point in the buffing cycle.

I can't type a lot for the next few days but here's a few threads to help you get going...


Lots of good info in this thread plus some technique videos on making a "Section Pass". The thread went south and the OP has never came back... so I'm going to recreate it to clean it up.

How to approach buffing out your car for the first time (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/36242-new-detailing-my-plan-attack-good-one.html)

Wet Buffing Technique (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/36237-wet-buffing-technique.html)

DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37769-da-polisher-trouble-shooting-guide.html)


Here's some more and lots in my article list...

How-To do a "Section Pass" when Machine Polishing with a DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/24074-video-how-do-section-pass-when-machine-buffing.html)

The short how-to guide for using a DA Polisher
How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27166-how-maximize-ability-1st-gen-porter-cable-dual-action-polishers.html)

The long and in-depth guide for using a DA Polisher
The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/20021-definitive-how-article-removing-swirls-scratches-water-spots-using-porter-cable-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html) - Includes Videos

How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/35292-how-prime-foam-pad-when-using-da-polisher.html)

Why it's important to clean your pads often... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/28755-why-s-important-clean-your-pads-often.html)

How to clean your foam pad on the fly (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly.html)

How to dry a foam pad after hand washing (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/26512-how-dry-foam-pad-after-hand-washing.html)

How to correctly fold and use a Microfiber Towel (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/29230-how-correctly-fold-use-microfiber-towel.html)

The SMAT Pack - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23561-smat-pack-everything-you-ever-wanted-know-about-meguiar-s-smat-products.html)

The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23583-aggressiveness-order-smat-products-might-surprise-you.html)

Kissing the Finish (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/29792-kissing-finish.html)

Knock out painted roofs first, then tackle the rest of the car... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/29746-knock-out-painted-roofs-first-then-tackle-rest-car.html)

Here's a tip... don't lift the pad off the paint till you've turned the polisher off and the spinning pad has slowed down... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/28940-here-s-tip-don-t-lift-pad-off-paint-till-you-ve-turned-polisher-off-spinning-pad-has-slowed-down.html)

What not to do when detailing a car! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/28226-what-not-do-when-detailing-car.html)

The Beach Towel Tip (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/30894-beach-towel-tip.html)

LSP - The definition and the story behind the term (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24073-lsp-definition-story-behind-term.html)

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24045-rids-definition-rids-story-behind-term.html)

The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23995-free-rotating-spindle-assembly-story-behind-story.html)

Handle? Or No Handle? - Using DA Polishers Without the Handle (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/questions-about-porter-cable-7424xp-7424-7336-griot-s-meguiar-s-dual-action-polishers/30822-handle-no-handle-using-da-polishers-without-handle.html)

How to break open a coating of wax and remove it by creeping out... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/28204-how-break-open-coating-wax-remove-creeping-out.html)

How to Apply Dodo Pastes Waxes by Machine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25737-how-apply-dodo-pastes-waxes-machine.html)

How To Apply Mothers California Gold Carnauba Paste Wax by Machine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25725-how-apply-mothers-california-gold-pure-carnauba-paste-machine.html)

The Final Wipe – Tips for creating a streak-free, show car finish (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/19956-final-wipe.html)


:buffing:

[DevildawgJJ]

Good Luck with your project and :welcome: to Autogeek

Thank you, sir!


Thank you for serving our country.

Thank you for your support....and the long list of detailing information! I guess I will be burn all of my leave days reading all of that :D

[Mike Phillips]

Thank you, sir!



Thank you for your support....and the long list of detailing information! I guess I will be burn all of my leave days reading all of that :D

Here's the nutshell version,


1. Wash and dry the car

2. Check to see if the paint needs to be clayed and if it does then clay the paint.

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27967-baggie-test-how-inspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/858/PaintCleaningByHand022.jpg


3. Watch the "Section Pass" video, learn what a section pass is as that's how you'll buff out the entire car, that is making one section pass after another to small sections of paint.

Here's how to do a "Section Pass" when trying to remove swirls, scratches and other below surface paint defects.


How to do a Section Pass

- How to do a &quot;Section Pass&quot; with a Porter Cable 7424XP


Do a Test Spot
A good rule of thumb is to use the least aggressive product to get the job done, so maybe try the UC with a white polishing pad first.

If you are not seeing results fast enough then try the UC with either a foam cutting pad.

Keep in mind,

5-6 Speed setting for removing swirls
4-5 Speed setting for polishing after swirls are removed
3-4 Speed setting for machine applying a wax.



For your test spot I always recommend using a Tape-Line when doing your testing as it will make it very easy for your eyes to detect changes, which usually mean improvements in the test area and gauge how effectively your pads, products, tool and techniques are working on this particular paint system.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/medium/TapeLine02.jpg


Also, mark the back of your backing plate with a black felt marker like you see below as this will help you to see when the pad is rotating or just vibrating. When you're trying to remove swirls you need the pad rotating.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/719/5inchbackingplateon5_5inchpadHT.jpg



Evaluating your Test Spot
After you do your section pass, wipe off the residue and then inspect the results. If you want to make sure 100% you're removing all the swirls and scratches then chemically strip the paint before inspection.

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31183-how-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html)



You can inspect after just the compound or after the compounding and the polishing, since the process of correction is both steps I would inspect after both steps as the compounding can leave some micro-marring that will be removed in the polishing step.


Once you dial in your process then duplicate it over the rest of the car working section by section. If you have problems, come back to this thread and tell us what you're seeing and we'll do our best to see you through to success.


Working section by section
Buffing out a car with a DA Polisher or ANY machine is a matter of doing sections at a time, so slice each panel up into smaller sections and after finishing one section move onto a new section and OVERLAP a little into the previous section. Here's an example of slicing a panel, (a car hood), up into smaller sections.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/787/SizeofAreatoSand.jpg




Here's some tips...

First, always work on a cool surface in the shade.

Second, prime clean, dry pads before starting.

Priming a clean, dry pad is considered the best approach for using a DA Polisher because it ensures that 100% of the working surface of the pad is wet with product and working at maximum efficiency when you turn the polisher on. I originally learned of this technique from my friend Kevin Brown.

Priming the pad also ensures that you don't have any dry portion of the pad working over the paint un-lubricated. This really isn't a risk because since you're just starting out you're going to be removing defects a lot more serious than would be caused by any portion of the pad that is dry and spinning against the paint.

Plus, after just a few passes, the product you apply to specific areas of the face of the pad will migrate over the entire face of the pad and it will do this rather quickly when you're on the higher speed settings.



Priming the Pad - For clean, dry pads
Start with a clean, dry pad and add some fresh product to be spread out to the face of the pad. Using your finger, spread the product out over the pad and then using your finger work it into the pores of the pad. Don't saturate the pad, just use enough product to make sure that 100% of the working face of the pad has product coverage.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad01.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad02.jpg


Work the product around the face of the pad and into the pores
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad03.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad04.jpg


Any extra, take and apply to the outer edge until 100% of the working face of the pad is primed with product.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad05.jpg



As an option you can also prime the outer edge. This helps if you're buffing around convex curves or around panels that the edge of your buffing pad may come into contact with, like spoilers, side mirror housings, curved panels etc.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad06.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad07.jpg


Primed and ready to add "Working Product" to.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad09.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad08.jpg




Adding "Working Product" to the primed pad
Some people will recommend 3 to 4 pea size drops of product as the proper amount of product to use and this can be correct for concentrated products or working small sections and if you follow this advice make sure you are not under-lubricating the surface being worked.

Pea size drops of product
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad10.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad11.jpg



For some products and paint conditions, you may want more product on the surface working for you. Here's an example of dime size drops of product.

Dime size drops of product
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad12.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1110/PrimingPad13.jpg



How much product to use after priming

Ample
You want an AMPLE amount of product when first starting out because you pad is dry and some of the product is going to seep into the pad leaving less on the surface to LUBRICATE and ABRADE the paint

Cut down on the amount of product AFTER pad is broken-in...
After your pad is broken in with product, clean your pad after each section pass and when you apply fresh product you can cut down on the amount of product you actually apply to the face of your pad.


Too Little Product
Under-using product reduces lubricity and will make it more difficult for your pad to rotate efficiently.

Too Much Product
Using too much product will hyper-lubricate or over-lubricate the pad and will interfere with the abrasives ability to abrade the paint.


Keep in mind that you want enough product on the surface so you have,

Abrasives working for you.


A lubricating film between the paint and the pad.
Often times if you don't have enough product to work with you'll end up buffing to a dry buff. When you lose lubrication, friction increase and this can lead to micro-marring or hazing.

:)