protection you can see vs protection you can feel??

[andym]

Almost everywhere you read, they say its time to re-wax or seal, when the water stops beading. The products used increase surface tension so the water beads. So is it safe to say that more surface tension = more beading = more protection??
I've been working on my little fiat which had its shares of swirls and fine scratches. On one door I used 1Z glanz wax as a final wax, and the other I used 3M Perfect-It Show Car Liquid Wax. Now both doors bead like mad, but the 3m door feels silky smooth whereas the 1Z doesn't. So what do you use??
And another question, is thre an easy way do identify swirl marks on silver/gray colored cars, they arent that obvious as they are on black.
Thanks!

[dougaross]

I don't think beading or feel is the criteria. The new coatings CQ and OC are nearly as slick as some sealants or waxes but they certainly offer more protection. Beading can result from many different things.

[andym]

Ok.
So how can you tell if something is "better" than something else?

[CEE DOG]

I would try an LED light along with other types. The LED usually shows things that may not even exist in the same dimension as we do!

Beyond beading I haven't found any other way of determining when a wax or sealant has failed.

[dougaross]

what is "better"? It is a matter of personal preference. What characteristics do you like in a product? shine, slickness, durability,ease of application/removal, prestige

[umi000]

Accumulator over at Autopia put it nicely - an LSP needs to be re-applied when some characteristic you value about it changes for the worst. What that characteristic is would be entirely up to you. I, myself, like my paint to be very slick and silky, and since this is one of the properties that usually drop off first, I tend to re-apply even though the product is (most likely) still protecting the paint.

[CrownKote]

I would try an LED light along with other types. The LED usually shows things that may not even exist in the same dimension as we do!

Beyond beading I haven't found any other way of determining when a wax or sealant has failed.

The LED is the way to go with silver paint to find impurity's... I have a friend that swears by UV light in his body shop for finding things like swirls and such on those hard to pin cars... I have never tried that so IDK...

I haven't found a way either... I know it is time to wax again when beading starts to become "puddleing"... lol... no more tight tiny drops but big blobs of water...


what is "better"? It is a matter of personal preference. What characteristics do you like in a product? shine, slickness, durability,ease of application/removal, prestige

I agree fully... a lot of it is dependent on choice and preference... I prefer an easy on easy off with at least 3 months durability and a deep deep glow... Personally on the Rover I use Col 845 and on the Bimmer I use MaxWax... I would love to try some of the others out there but cost wise that is my choice...

[andym]

what is "better"? It is a matter of personal preference. What characteristics do you like in a product? shine, slickness, durability,ease of application/removal, prestige

You're right! I was just trying to determine what role beading plays in all this, if its an indicator of performance or just beads.

A couple of weeks ago I came across this video on you tube, and this guy was selling his wax for a couple of hundred a jar. But the only thing they were actually showing on the video was, water just flowing of the vehicle, not even beading! So you start to think if water beads or flows of the the car, it must work in the same way with contaminants.

In other words they get you thinking slickness, water flowing off your vehicle = protection.
Thats why I asked what I asked.
Thanks for the input though!!:dblthumb2:

[andym]

I'm gonna try the LED lights!
Thanks guys!

[FUNX650]

I was just trying to determine what role beading plays in all this, if its an indicator of performance or just beads.:dblthumb2:


Beads/beading may play a role as an indicator that an LSP may still be present; but, are there any studies/tests that unquestionably and convincingly prove that is true? I don't know of any. Even if it were true, is the LSP is still performing? I imagine that can only be answered by what determines a person's definition of "performing" as it pertains to an LSP.

Just as I've been taught to use the: "free flowing of water during the final rinse after washing the vehicle method"---that is: let the water "sheet" over the surface for easier drying---I prefer an LSP that exhibits sheeting vs. beading, though, IMO, there aren't many of those :)

Bob

[andym]

Beads/beading may play a role as an indicator that an LSP may still be present; but, are there any studies/tests that unquestionably and convincingly prove that is true? I don't know of any. Even if it were true, is the LSP is still performing? I imagine that can only be answered by what determines a person's definition of "performing" as it pertains to an LSP.

Just as I've been taught to use the: "free flowing of water during the final rinse after washing the vehicle method"---that is: let the water "sheet" over the surface for easier drying---I prefer an LSP that exhibits sheeting vs. beading, though, IMO, there aren't many of those :)

Bob

Can you share with us which LSP exhibit this sheeting action ?:xyxthumbs:

[Dubbin1]

Can you share with us which LSP exhibit this sheeting action ?:xyxthumbs:

Most sealants will proved better sheeting over a nuba.

[FUNX650]

Can you share with us which LSP exhibit this sheeting action ?:xyxthumbs:
Thanks for asking.:xyxthumbs:

As Dubbin1 so eloquently said: most sealants. (Thanks Dwayne) Some of the new? coatings claim it.

I might use some CQ when version No. 17 (LOL) comes out, though. :)
Avi keeps on improving it...as you know...through input from this and other forums' members. That, along with other sources, I would imagine.

Bob

[andym]

Thats great!
Thanks for "sheeting" that info with us!:dblthumb2:
Now its time to find us a sealent!!