David Fermani
06-18-2011, 09:29 AM
This method will dramatically increase the lifespan of your clay. I wouldn’t be surprised if it lasted atleast 5 times longer just by following this easy procedure.
Hint: If your clay is cold and stiff, soak it in a bucket of hot water and fold or knead your bar. Within 2 minutes it will be soft and good to be used.
Work your clay as usual. Back and forth, circles....what ever way you choose. As you work the clay, try to inspect it and discover a “baseline” for how quickly the bar picks up contaminants and gets clogged/discolored. If your work area is quite listen for abrasion noise created from your clay eating into the contaminants. No noise is usually an indication that the surface is free of heavy contaminants. Don’t wait for your clay to get too dirty because the dirt embeds itself to the face of the clay and ultimately gets rubbed into/against the surface creating unnecessary marring.
This is about as dirty as your clay should get (Clay Magic blue pictured):
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr214/PolyProDetail/Picture001-4.jpg
Take your clay, spray any water based APC (I prefer Optimum Power Clean) and liberally spray it onto the surface of the clay. Then, take a clean toothbrush and agitate the surface of the clay. This will loosen up the contaminants.
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr214/PolyProDetail/Picture002-5.jpg
Take the clay and submerge it into your bucket of water, rubbing the clay with your fingers and rinsing the suspended debris off the surface.
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr214/PolyProDetail/Picture003-2.jpg
Note: method not effective for 100% road tar contaminant removal. These contaminants are best removed prior to clay process.
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr214/PolyProDetail/Picture004-3.jpg
Knead clay and repeat often>>>
Hint: If your clay is cold and stiff, soak it in a bucket of hot water and fold or knead your bar. Within 2 minutes it will be soft and good to be used.
Work your clay as usual. Back and forth, circles....what ever way you choose. As you work the clay, try to inspect it and discover a “baseline” for how quickly the bar picks up contaminants and gets clogged/discolored. If your work area is quite listen for abrasion noise created from your clay eating into the contaminants. No noise is usually an indication that the surface is free of heavy contaminants. Don’t wait for your clay to get too dirty because the dirt embeds itself to the face of the clay and ultimately gets rubbed into/against the surface creating unnecessary marring.
This is about as dirty as your clay should get (Clay Magic blue pictured):
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr214/PolyProDetail/Picture001-4.jpg
Take your clay, spray any water based APC (I prefer Optimum Power Clean) and liberally spray it onto the surface of the clay. Then, take a clean toothbrush and agitate the surface of the clay. This will loosen up the contaminants.
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr214/PolyProDetail/Picture002-5.jpg
Take the clay and submerge it into your bucket of water, rubbing the clay with your fingers and rinsing the suspended debris off the surface.
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr214/PolyProDetail/Picture003-2.jpg
Note: method not effective for 100% road tar contaminant removal. These contaminants are best removed prior to clay process.
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr214/PolyProDetail/Picture004-3.jpg
Knead clay and repeat often>>>