Need a new plan

[Jeff Laughhunn]

Yesterday afternoon I was going to fix the hood, quarter panel, and door on a 2011 white Kia that had been the victim of a Scotch-brite pad attack. It was 95+ degrees, and I was working outside, in full tree shade (the paint was cool to the touch). As I only had <2 hours, after washing the areas, I went straight to my Flex 3401, pfw and Megs 83. Usual routine, light spritz pad with #34, prime the pad with 83, several drops more, and away we go. I tackled a 2x3 area (1/3 the hood), and made 3 fairly heavy passes. I noticed the pad was removing some of the polish, and I stopped. I had actually dry-buffed the entire section, much to my dismay. And the webbing/swirling was some of the worst I'd ever seen, letalone created! From some angles, it appeared like looking thru a stained-glass window ;-(
So, I re-spritzed the pad, cleaned it / fluffed it into my microfiber towel, and reapplied about 6 inches of polish, as I was thinking that the temperature caused the polish to dry prematurely. This time I cut the work area in half, doing a 1x2 area. I was able to get five passes down, before the polish began to clear/almost dry. BUT I didn't make a dent in the webbing. I then tried the same area with a maroon pad, and Einzet Intensiv. Worked several passes, again, no change. Went to a yellow pad, with still no improvement. I then tried two more attempts with Hypercompund and a yellow pad, then M105. As I was extremely frustrated at this juncture, I tried M105 and a white pad (hey, it couldn't hurt), and of course that yielded no joy either.
So, I am humbly asking for advice/suggestions on how to re-tackle the mess I created. The only thing I know I will do different is work inside the garage next time, hopefully in the morning with lower temperature. I have never had this problem before, and I have used all the above products/pads before, with usually great results.
Any help or advice is appreciated, as I would very much like to fix what I messed up.

[Perfections]

Wow sounds like your approach was good, think you can capture a pic of it? I know white would be a pain but it might help, if it's just webbing your approach should of removed it easily, especially on a Kia, unless they changed some in 2011 with their painting process, ceramic maybe? Lol

[MDetail]

Have you tried something a little less aggressive? maybe m205 on a polishing or finishing pad?

[Bates Detailing]

This may be a long shot - but how old was the car - could it have still been in its green period with the paint?!?!?! Ive done some corrections in the elements and never created anything you are describing..... you process of trying to fix it didnt sound wrong...... so my last thought is maybe its still in its green period? This is a question for FLASH - where are you Flash?!?!?!

[Jeff Laughhunn]

Have you tried something a little less aggressive? maybe m205 on a polishing or finishing pad?

Yes, the last thing I did was run some 205 on a white pad. It got shinier, but zero effect on the webs.

[Jeff Laughhunn]

This may be a long shot - but how old was the car - could it have still been in its green period with the paint?!?!?! Ive done some corrections in the elements and never created anything you are describing..... you process of trying to fix it didnt sound wrong...... so my last thought is maybe its still in its green period?

I don't know the BOD of the Kia. She's had it a couple months.

[Setec Astronomy]

I'm not really understanding what you are saying. Are you saying that the products you used didn't touch the ScotchBrite marks? Or are you saying you created more marks with what you did?

If you are saying that your process put more marks in, it sounds like this paint was very soft. I'm not sure what the other folks are talking about with "green period" because if it's factory paint it should be baked and fully hard before it leaves the plant--heck guys, they do touch-up spot polish at the plant, you know? But sometimes cars get damaged in shipping and it could be a crummy dealer repaint on those panels, or it could be that 2011 Kia paint in that color is just really soft.

[gewb]

I don't know the BOD of the Kia. She's had it a couple months.

Look for the metal plate on the driver side door jamb (it has a large bar code on it) - the date it came off the line is near the top of the plate.

If the finish was scrubbed with a Scotch Brite pad the clear coat has probably been removed - you posted that your pad had paint color transfer when buffed which doesb't happen on clear coat. That panel needs to be repainted and clear coated.

Regards,
GEWB

[Bates Detailing]

I'm not really understanding what you are saying. Are you saying that the products you used didn't touch the ScotchBrite marks? Or are you saying you created more marks with what you did?

If you are saying that your process put more marks in, it sounds like this paint was very soft. I'm not sure what the other folks are talking about with "green period" because if it's factory paint it should be baked and fully hard before it leaves the plant--heck guys, they do touch-up spot polish at the plant, you know? But sometimes cars get damaged in shipping and it could be a crummy dealer repaint on those panels, or it could be that 2011 Kia paint in that color is just really soft.

Maybe I should have said "super long shot" lol :dunno:

[slimnib]

Yesterday afternoon I was going to fix the hood, quarter panel, and door on a 2011 white Kia that had been the victim of a Scotch-brite pad attack. It was 95+ degrees, and I was working outside, in full tree shade (the paint was cool to the touch). As I only had <2 hours, after washing the areas, I went straight to my Flex 3401, pfw and Megs 83. Usual routine, light spritz pad with #34, prime the pad with 83, several drops more, and away we go. I tackled a 2x3 area (1/3 the hood), and made 3 fairly heavy passes. I noticed the pad was removing some of the polish, and I stopped. I had actually dry-buffed the entire section, much to my dismay. And the webbing/swirling was some of the worst I'd ever seen, letalone created! From some angles, it appeared like looking thru a stained-glass window ;-(
So, I re-spritzed the pad, cleaned it / fluffed it into my microfiber towel, and reapplied about 6 inches of polish, as I was thinking that the temperature caused the polish to dry prematurely. This time I cut the work area in half, doing a 1x2 area. I was able to get five passes down, before the polish began to clear/almost dry. BUT I didn't make a dent in the webbing. I then tried the same area with a maroon pad, and Einzet Intensiv. Worked several passes, again, no change. Went to a yellow pad, with still no improvement. I then tried two more attempts with Hypercompund and a yellow pad, then M105. As I was extremely frustrated at this juncture, I tried M105 and a white pad (hey, it couldn't hurt), and of course that yielded no joy either.
So, I am humbly asking for advice/suggestions on how to re-tackle the mess I created. The only thing I know I will do different is work inside the garage next time, hopefully in the morning with lower temperature. I have never had this problem before, and I have used all the above products/pads before, with usually great results.
Any help or advice is appreciated, as I would very much like to fix what I messed up.


Are you a pro? if not get your car to a really top notch one, and see if he clean it up.

I hate to say it but this may be over your head and all the advise in the world will not help if you are really not up to the task.

if it was my new car that i what I would do.

[Setec Astronomy]

If the finish was scrubbed with a Scotch Brite pad the clear coat has probably been removed - you posted that your pad had paint color transfer when buffed which doesb't happen on clear coat. That panel needs to be repainted and clear coated.

I don't see where he said he was getting pigment on the pad?

[Jeff Laughhunn]

Are you a pro? if not get your car to a really top notch one, and see if he clean it up.

I hate to say it but this may be over your head and all the advise in the world will not help if you are really not up to the task.

if it was my new car that i what I would do.

Far from being a pro. I never charge for my details. But I must say out of the years I've been using machines, this is the first time I messed something up. Before now, my worst sin would be not always correcting 100%.
And I don't know any "pros" here in my neck of the woods either (South Texas). If I knew one, I'd likely pay to have it fixed correctly, myself (even though I wasn't charging for the work in the first place).

[Jeff Laughhunn]

I'm not really understanding what you are saying. Are you saying that the products you used didn't touch the ScotchBrite marks? Or are you saying you created more marks with what you did?

If you are saying that your process put more marks in, it sounds like this paint was very soft. I'm not sure what the other folks are talking about with "green period" because if it's factory paint it should be baked and fully hard before it leaves the plant--heck guys, they do touch-up spot polish at the plant, you know? But sometimes cars get damaged in shipping and it could be a crummy dealer repaint on those panels, or it could be that 2011 Kia paint in that color is just really soft.

If the soft paint is the culprit, what am I missing on my technique(s) to remedy this? I obviously have the pads/material/mad skilz to alter the paint, but what should I do different? I can't emphasize how much of a hack I feel like for messing up the car.

[MDetail]

I don't know anything about Texas so forgive me if this isn't helpful. Welcome to Nick&#39;s Custom Detailing! (http://nickscustomdetailing.com/) always did good work on the other forums, you might also try Scott's Mobile Auto Detailing :: Home (http://www.scottwax.com/) just wanted to give you some options incase you aren't able to find a remedy for this.

[Flash Gordon]

This is a question for FLASH - where are you Flash?!?!?!

Sounds like an old chalky white POS. If it were me, I would either use SIP or Rocks-n-Bottle for the initial cutting stage

It would help if I knew the make, model and year of the car in question, along with its color. It would also help if I knew what machine you were using


I'm not really understanding what you are saying.

I started seeing cross ~ eyed @ the third line. I had to give up trying to decifer the message from that point


I don't know anything about Texas so forgive me if this isn't helpful. Welcome to Nick's Custom Detailing! (http://nickscustomdetailing.com/) always did good work on the other forums, you might also try Scott's Mobile Auto Detailing :: Home (http://www.scottwax.com/) just wanted to give you some options incase you aren't able to find a remedy for this.

Either of these two guys should be able to help you

Cosmin is in Austin too

God bless,

Flash