New 5.0 help

[Southern Stang]

Hey guys, whats going on? A little stressed on my side but other than that I'm all good.
Anyway, the step dad's in afghanistan for a few months which left me with driving the new 5.0 around for a little while. Well with me being OCD I can't be seen driving a car with swirl and RIDS galore...so enough with the short story

This thing looks horrible! For being only a couple months old it looks like he's been washing it with scotchbrite and some sand...But seriously it's the big brush at walmart for RV's is what he's been using. I've been doing some work with the pcxp 7424 for the last hour...I have made progress but still not where I want it to be. There are a few deep scratches after I have done some wet sanding. I only have 2000 with me and will be going to the local auto paint store that supplies all the shops for some 1500 and 3000. I have used m105 with an orange flat 5.5" LC pad with a little luck. But after about 15 passes I'm still far from perfect. The sanding marks are gone but still a few scratches left over that I didn't get out from sanding. Most of the swirl marks are gone as well.

Now, Is there a way to speed this up? These scratches are EVERYWHERE! I've almost considered buying the sanding discs for the PCXP and doing a full wetsand :( I have used my rotary with the orange pad with a little faster luck than the PCXP but still the scratches remain. So.....Here is the question.

Do I step up to wool with the rotary, Do a full wetsand, or do you think the new microfiber cutting discs will do ok? Do I try PFW or surbuf with the PCXP...I'm at a loss here guys. Or do I just remove what I can swirl mark wise and live with it being OEM paint?

No pics sorry guys...The camera battery died right as I went to take a few for you all. Any help is appreciated.

[Kristopher1129]

Hey guys, whats going on? A little stressed on my side but other than that I'm all good.
Anyway, the step dad's in afghanistan for a few months which left me with driving the new 5.0 around for a little while. Well with me being OCD I can't be seen driving a car with swirl and RIDS galore...so enough with the short story

This thing looks horrible! For being only a couple months old it looks like he's been washing it with scotchbrite and some sand...But seriously it's the big brush at walmart for RV's is what he's been using. I've been doing some work with the pcxp 7424 for the last hour...I have made progress but still not where I want it to be. There are a few deep scratches after I have done some wet sanding. I only have 2000 with me and will be going to the local auto paint store that supplies all the shops for some 1500 and 3000. I have used m105 with an orange flat 5.5" LC pad with a little luck. But after about 15 passes I'm still far from perfect. The sanding marks are gone but still a few scratches left over that I didn't get out from sanding. Most of the swirl marks are gone as well.

Now, Is there a way to speed this up? These scratches are EVERYWHERE! I've almost considered buying the sanding discs for the PCXP and doing a full wetsand :( I have used my rotary with the orange pad with a little faster luck than the PCXP but still the scratches remain. So.....Here is the question.

Do I step up to wool with the rotary, Do a full wetsand, or do you think the new microfiber cutting discs will do ok? Do I try PFW or surbuf with the PCXP...I'm at a loss here guys. Or do I just remove what I can swirl mark wise and live with it being OEM paint?

No pics sorry guys...The camera battery died right as I went to take a few for you all. Any help is appreciated.

This is probably going to bring all kinds of opinions and methods from various people.

IMO, I would go straight to the wool pad. But, that's just my style. I find it easier to fully correct with a rotary. ESPECIALLY if you're going to wet sand.

I typically use the DA and the 5.5" pads on tight areas, or panels with lots of edges and body lines. It's just safer when it comes to those situations. For the rest of it...I do my taping and hit the bulk of the body with a wool pad and rotary. Then I follow up on the tighter areas with the DA.

As for a short cut...there are none if you want perfection. If one of my customers wants perfection...it can take a couple days to get it just right. But...that's just me! Good luck with it buddy. :dblthumb2:

[Southern Stang]

Thanks Kris...I guess I'll get me some more wool pads and go at it.
MOAR compound :pc7424:
I'll try to get some pics in the sun before I leave here in the A.M. for a clients vehicle.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Thanks Kris...I guess I'll get me some more wool pads and go at it.
MOAR compound :pc7424:
I'll try to get some pics in the sun before I leave here in the A.M. for a clients vehicle.
Do you post on MW?

[sal329]

Using the PC I would pick up some Surbuff pads to tackle the wet sanding marks

[ChrisJ]

Everyone I have spoke to about said the new paint on the mustangs are hard as hell...Sounds like that is the same issue you are running into...A guy on moddedmustangs.com just did one not long ago...Might want to check there as he did a full correction on it and it came out great...

[jkk7479]

Using the PC I would pick up some Surbuff pads to tackle the wet sanding marks


Either that, or the new Megs MF DA system. I have seen it remove 3000 sanding marks not a problem. It's an option if you want to stick to the PC. The Surbuf pads are going to make quick work of those scratches and sanding marks, but you will definitely need to refine the paint after as I find they don't finish down very well. Just my $0.02.

[Southern Stang]

Mark- That was not me that posted on MW. Not about this car anyway. lol

Looks like I will pick up some surbuffs and maybe the M.F. system aswell and give that a shot. I got some shots in the sun today so I truly know what I'm up against. This thing just has some serious hard clear! I noticed some micro marring so I've got a new plan of attack with this guy. I know neither my truck or my stang didn't have clear this hard....Ouch

Where I have wet sanded and made many passes
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/CR80rider/6911060.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/CR80rider/6911059.jpg
Untouched
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/CR80rider/6911061.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/CR80rider/6911062.jpg
-Edit...I had that the wrong way around lol
Thanks for the help guys!

[ChrisJ]

2011 Mustang 5.0 GT/CS - 3 Stage Paint Correction (http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/general-car-care-detailing/213194-2011-mustang-5-0-gt-cs-3-stage-paint-correction.html)

Not sure if this thread is any help but this is the one I was talking about...

[kronos]

Check out Joe's, a.k.a. Superior Shine's, thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/32822-shine-like-you-mean-shelby-cobra-meets-microfiber-da-system.html

He wetsands the car and removes the marks using only the Megs Microfiber DA system.

[Southern Stang]

Thanks for the thread Chris! Good read.

[Southern Stang]

I also did remember seeing Joe's post a while back about the shelby. Thanks for the help thus far guys!

[05xrunner]

i dont know if they changed it in the 2011 or it has to do with being black..but my 2010 paint is soft as butter...if I look at it to hard scratches will happen.

[Southern Stang]

I know my fathers honda is the same way, he clear on my 05 is about middle of the road. Not butter soft but not vette hard either. Maybe this one is an off breed being grabber blue ;)

[ChrisJ]

i dont know if they changed it in the 2011 or it has to do with being black..but my 2010 paint is soft as butter...if I look at it to hard scratches will happen.

That sounds like my honda's paint...

But everyone I know says the 2011+ are pretty hard...