Questions about Opti-Coat

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

So i was reading a little about the Opti-Coat 2.0 (not sure what the difference is between it with that and the original).

I've got a couple questions...first...anyone who's used it...how do you like it...and is it worth the price?

Secondly...what do you do if IT gets swirls in it? Do you remove it from that panel completely or can it be corrected? If it has to be removed...how do you use it?

Thirdly, Can you (or do you even need to) apply a sealant or wax on TOP of it?

Lastly, this is more business oriented...what do you guys charge for applying it....and do you ONLY apply it if the client is hiring you for correction first...or will you apply it to a swirled car if the customer insists? Could you give a price for how much extra you charge to apply it as opposed to a regular sealant?


appreciate it guys!

[dougaross]

So i was reading a little about the Opti-Coat 2.0 (not sure what the difference is between it with that and the original).

I've got a couple questions...first...anyone who's used it...how do you like it...and is it worth the price?

Secondly...what do you do if IT gets swirls in it? Do you remove it from that panel completely or can it be corrected? If it has to be removed...how do you use it?

Thirdly, Can you (or do you even need to) apply a sealant or wax on TOP of it?

Lastly, this is more business oriented...what do you guys charge for applying it....and do you ONLY apply it if the client is hiring you for correction first...or will you apply it to a swirled car if the customer insists? Could you give a price for how much extra you charge to apply it as opposed to a regular sealant?


appreciate it guys!

I think its great. Price is in the eye of the beholder. But I think its worth it.

You can do LIGHT correction. But generally you have to remove it from panel. But since it is harder than clearcote it is not likely to swirl with proper care.

You don't need to top it, but some do to get a slicker feeling

I am not in business, but I only I apply over my own correction and certainly would not apply over a swirled finish. BTW actually applying OC is the least time consuming part of the process.

IMO

[CEE DOG]

Yes, its worth the price.

You can use Optimum Poli Seal with a foam finishing pad to gloss it up over time.

You can apply a wax over the top but don't have to.

[PAR Detailing]

Doing brand new cars is the best. The washing and prep takes longer than the actual application. I like it and think it is a good product and definitely has a place in my detailing aresnal.

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

I think its great. Price is in the eye of the beholder. But I think its worth it.

You can do LIGHT correction. But generally you have to remove it from panel. But since it is harder than clearcote it is not likely to swirl with proper care.

You don't need to top it, but some do to get a slicker feeling

I am not in business, but I only I apply over my own correction and certainly would not apply over a swirled finish. BTW actually applying OC is the least time consuming part of the process.

IMO

So how would your remove it from the panel IF you ever had to? Also you say apply it is the least time consuming, what is the process you use to prep for it (in detail if you don't mind?) Sounds good but i was just worried about IF it did swirl how big of a paint would it be to take it off....or if it were to start to fail...thats why i wanted some input from people who've used it to testify to its durability:dblthumb2:

[CEE DOG]

So how would your remove it from the panel IF you ever had to? Also you say apply it is the least time consuming, what is the process you use to prep for it (in detail if you don't mind?) Sounds good but i was just worried about IF it did swirl how big of a paint would it be to take it off....or if it were to start to fail...thats why i wanted some input from people who've used it to testify to its durability:dblthumb2:

Clay and polish the car to the level you want locked in under a coating that will be there for a very very long time. You may also consider IronX before claying.

To prep for application there are many options. I do the following. Wash with OPC 3:1 (you might consider having your mitt in a bucket with a dawn mix and spraying on your apc panel by panel as you wash and rinse each panel) Final Rinse very well. Wipe the car down with IPA or MS. I haven't used the MS as the final wipe so verify with Dr. G or Chris but I think that should be good.

If you want to coat a section of OC that got scratched up you would have to polish the enire panel and prep before coating again..

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Clay and polish the car to the level you want locked in under a coating that will be there for a very very long time. You may also consider IronX before claying.

To prep for application there are many options. I do the following. Wash with OPC 3:1 (you might consider having your mitt in a bucket with a dawn mix and spraying on your apc panel by panel as you wash and rinse each panel) Final Rinse very well. Wipe the car down with IPA or MS. I haven't used the MS as the final wipe so verify with Dr. G or Chris but I think that should be good.

If you want to coat a section of OC that got scratched up you would have to polish the enire panel and prep before coating again..

Sounds good...i guess i was just wondering too if it serves at all as a sort of 'filler' to swirls or not....and also have you had any issues with any type of streaking or unevenness when applying?

[Rei86]

You know something about Opti Coat that I always wanted to know was this part

"The professional choice for PERMANENT paint protection."

But seeing Corey's review IT does scratch, and reading up on how people correct/fix it by actually leveling it like normal clear coat. So my question is, it isn't really permanent is it? Also once applied and I just wash the car normally it should be fine for the life of the car right? So that also means all the crap I purchased over the last year would be worthless since I'm hearing reports that topping Opti Coat/Guard pretty much has no extra effect?

[CEE DOG]

Sounds good...i guess i was just wondering too if it serves at all as a sort of 'filler' to swirls or not....and also have you had any issues with any type of streaking or unevenness when applying?

It doesn't fill swirls. Yes, ther must be care taken when applying or you will get "high spots" You only have a minute before those high spots will really start to bond to the paint. If not removed soon they will become permanent.

When you apply the best method is to apply like you would a "wipe on walk away" product. The difference is that you don't actually walk away (to the next section) until you have looked from every angle in good lighting and know you don't have any "rainbow affect" high spots. I've applied in this manner since learning it was the correct way to do so and the only high spots I had to level were in the corners of the section. Having said that I would recomend practicing with the product once before applying it to someones vehicle. Do not use it in the sun or on warm panels.


You know something about Opti Coat that I always wanted to know was this part

"The professional choice for PERMANENT paint protection."

But seeing Corey's review IT does scratch, and reading up on how people correct/fix it by actually leveling it like normal clear coat. So my question is, it isn't really permanent is it? Also once applied and I just wash the car normally it should be fine for the life of the car right? So that also means all the crap I purchased over the last year would be worthless since I'm hearing reports that topping Opti Coat/Guard pretty much has no extra effect?

It's "permanent" unless you polish it off... Just like your paint is "permanent" until it is polished off. Nothing physical on the earth is truly "permanent" but you know what I mean.

It does scratch just like every substance on the earth can be scratched. However the claim Optimum makes is that it is harder than the regualr clear coat on your vehicle. I did a "dis-service" (Chris's words... and after thinking about it I agree) by posting those pictures because some people take them to mean that the product didn't work. Thats not what I was saying. I tried to conduct a scratch test and I failed miserably with my level of aggression. Nobody is actually going to use a dish scrub pad like that.. Well, some people might but...

I am going to post another set of pictures with a much more realistic scratch test and I hope to see both coatings perform as advertised. I just used that same panel for some rotary training Saturday and removed the old coatings. It was re-coated Sunday. After 1 week I'll post a more realistic scratch test and I'll ask Avi and Chris to sign off on my method before I do it.

More and more people are jumping on the wax the coating bandwagon. Adding a wax does improve it's slickness and I have heard a bunch of different things about how it affects or does not affect the properties of the coatings from different users. But you may or may not apply things on top of the coating. Thats up to you.

[Rei86]

The thread that I'm thinking about is David's long term test of the Opti-Coat/Guard he did on his Ford Fusion. He's doing normal things and have held up for more then a year now?

I do agree with you Corey that your jug of juice + scrub pad was extreme but it does show that the product isn't "permanent." I guess a more real world test would be drive the car, get it dirty, move your hand across the paint, wash it with the dirty rinse water and see what kind of damage it pops up.

Don't know why I'm even talking about this since I did purchase some Opti-Coat 2.0 so that I cover up my moms SUV so I never really have to do a a full on wash/wax on the damn thing.

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

The thread that I'm thinking about is David's long term test of the Opti-Coat/Guard he did on his Ford Fusion. He's doing normal things and have held up for more then a year now?

I do agree with you Corey that your jug of juice + scrub pad was extreme but it does show that the product isn't "permanent." I guess a more real world test would be drive the car, get it dirty, move your hand across the paint, wash it with the dirty rinse water and see what kind of damage it pops up.

Don't know why I'm even talking about this since I did purchase some Opti-Coat 2.0 so that I cover up my moms SUV so I never really have to do a a full on wash/wax on the damn thing.
:haha:. So what is the thread you guys are talking about Cee did with the jug of juice and scrub lol. Its sounding like a good product and i might have to try it out when i can afford it lol...and maybe offer it as an option to customers once i figure out a price to put on it :-\?

So if you end up with 'high' levels...do you have to compound that panel back down and then rewipe with ISP and then reapply?

[CEE DOG]

:haha:. So what is the thread you guys are talking about Cee did with the jug of juice and scrub lol. Its sounding like a good product and i might have to try it out when i can afford it lol...and maybe offer it as an option to customers once i figure out a price to put on it :-?

So if you end up with 'high' levels...do you have to compound that panel back down and then rewipe with ISP and then reapply?

Here you go: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/34883-review-extreme-testing-opti-coat-2-0-cquartz.html

Make sure you do NOT miss the Extreme chemical testing portion of the review or the Q&A with Dr. G and Avi. The Q&A is at the bottom of the review. The Xtreme chemical testing portion is near the bottom but a bit before the Q&A. Does me having to tell you where to look mean my review is too long??

Remember: the way I apply OC in the video is NOT the recomended method. I did that before I found information on line that described the other method. I did get streak free results with the method I used in the review but it was stressful. I've used the recomended method of application since then and it is much less stressful. Still, remember to keep looking for high spots though. You must make sure you knock those off within a very short time.

The answer to your question is maybe. You might be able to remove the high spots with poli-seal and a finishing pad... I don't know. But if not you would have to polish the OC off the panel and prep it again to remove absolutely all fo the oils from polishing.

[dougaross]

So how would your remove it from the panel IF you ever had to? Also you say apply it is the least time consuming, what is the process you use to prep for it (in detail if you don't mind?) Sounds good but i was just worried about IF it did swirl how big of a paint would it be to take it off....or if it were to start to fail...thats why i wanted some input from people who've used it to testify to its durability:dblthumb2:
well, since OC has not been around that long, durability can only been based on OG(the pro version) which has been around several years and seem to have great durability.

Depends where the start of the prep process begins. The first step would be to attempt to make your paint flawless since you are going to have to live with the results for a long time. Once that has been accomplished, you need to remove all wax, sealants and polishing oils. They recommend a Power Clean soak and wash followed by IPA. Then you apply a thin even coat of OC and if necessary smooth any thick spots.

If you had to take it off I imagine you would have to use a compound. But I really don't have any experience with this.

Maybe Chris will chime in.

[Chris Thomas]

Well, I read this whole thread thinking I may need to add something, but you guys are becoming very proficient in explaining OC and I commend you! I don't see any question answered incorrectly and can't add any comment...nice work men!


well, since OC has not been around that long, durability can only been based on OG(the pro version) which has been around several years and seem to have great durability.

Depends where the start of the prep process begins. The first step would be to attempt to make your paint flawless since you are going to have to live with the results for a long time. Once that has been accomplished, you need to remove all wax, sealants and polishing oils. They recommend a Power Clean soak and wash followed by IPA. Then you apply a thin even coat of OC and if necessary smooth any thick spots.

If you had to take it off I imagine you would have to use a compound. But I really don't have any experience with this.

Maybe Chris will chime in.

We recommend Power Clean till the car doesn't bead, then you are ready...no need to IPA wipe. If you use our polishes and compounds, you only need to wipe with a damp MF before applying the coating ( no Power Clean of IPA needed). Thick spots can be removed with a finishing polish or poliseal without needing to reapply the coating. If you need to remove the coating an aggressive polish or compound will be needed.

[CEE DOG]

If you use our polishes and compounds, you only need to wipe with a damp MF before applying the coating ( no Power Clean of IPA needed).

THAT is sooo cool! I've probably read this before but if so it never sank in. Chris, can you use a mf towel with OID or ONR instead of water? Either way it's very cool but just curious. That's probably asking the impossible. Lol.


Thick spots can be removed with a finishing polish or poliseal without needing to reapply the coating. That is excellent! I thought you had said this before but the previous tone used gave me the impression it wasn't necessarily simple. Now I am digesting it a little differently. I need to try this. Depending on how easily and good it works (and it seems as though it would be very easy) this would be a HUGE factor... Especially for first time users. It seems the rabbit hole goes deep with this product.