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Sunstealer
05-30-2011, 08:50 AM
I debated back and forth between trying CQuartz and Opti-Coat for my wife's 2009 Infiniti G37. It was last sealed in October 2010 with Zaino AIO and Z-CS. It was boosted occasionally with Z-8 or OCW after a wash and was still beading a little, but not great. I finally decided to go with CQuartz since the application seemed a little more user friendly.

I washed the car Saturday night with a strong Dawn/APC combo to kill anything left on the paint. After rinsing, I sprayed it down with IronX and rubbed it in with a sponge. After dwelling for a few minutes, you could see the violet streaks where it was working on iron particles. The smell of IronX is really potent, it smells like a hair salon. I then completely rinsed it down. While still wet, I misted the paint with ONR at clay lube ratio and clayed the paint. I could tell the IronX pulled some of the contaminants out since I was able to blaze through claying the paint. I then dried the car and pulled it into the garage.

Sunday morning, I started out by polishing the paint with my new Griot's DA, Hydrotech Tangerine pads, and Wolfgang FG. I had read many horror stories about polishing Infiniti's scratch shield paint, but I had no problems. The scratch shield does seem to work, on this car at least. There were really no swirls that I could detect in the sun or under my lights. What I was mainly polishing were the leftover bug/bird bomb residue and small imperfections in the paint. After polishing, I did a wipe-down with IPA/Water in a 50:50 ratio as advised by CarPro.

Finally, time for the CQuartz. I used the sponge applicator wrapped with the suede microfiber. Again, the smell is pretty strong. I started with the horizontal surfaces and set my phone to buzz when 10 minutes was up since it was around 84 degrees. I used about 3 drops per 2x2 sized panel. I was able to get the hood, roof, trunk lid, and all glass in the 10 minutes. I then used a polish buffing microfiber to go back over what I had just done and buff off the residue. It buffs very easily, about the easiest LSP I have ever buffed. I continued around the rest of the car, it took about 45 minutes total. For the small areas, I used the cotton make-up applicators. They were fine on flat surfaces, but kept balling up on the wheels and tight areas.

After completely buffing, I pulled the car out into the sun to inspect and make sure I had not missed anywhere. The paint looked good/clean, but did not really pop like after a good sealant or wax. It also did not really feel "slick". I left it and went inside to rest. I went out about 3 hours later as the sun was starting down and noticed an immediate difference. The paint seemed to almost be glowing. The car is Athens Blue, a medium blue metallic that really pops when the sun hits it just right. It still did not feel slick, but definitely had the look. I would compare the look to what I got on it with a Zaino base topped with OCW.

I am looking forward to see how it lasts on this car and how well it beads and sheds dirt. I purchased Reload as well and will be adding it after I wash it next week. I used about 1/2 of the 30ml bottle that I purchased. I covered ever surface on the outside of the car that could be covered. I think I will go ahead and purchase Opti-Coat next and use it on my Audi when it is time to seal again.

I will post some pics later today.

Sunstealer
05-30-2011, 09:13 AM
Check out the tree reflected in the hood:

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad49/Sunstealer73/Cars/100_1823.jpg

Not a cloud in the sky:

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad49/Sunstealer73/Cars/100_1824.jpg

More reflections:

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad49/Sunstealer73/Cars/100_1825.jpg

Even more:

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad49/Sunstealer73/Cars/100_1826.jpg

Any spots you see in that final photo are actually on the driveway and being reflected back. The paint also has some orange peel, accounting for the slight distortion.

Avi@CarPro
05-30-2011, 09:32 AM
Very good results!
a proper application... glad you like it!

Sunstealer
05-31-2011, 09:00 PM
Had a bird bomb on the hood last night and used just straight water to blast it off. The hydrophobic effect of CQuartz is really pretty amazing. The individual droplets quickly merge and just rush off the paint. I have used lots of sealants and waxes, but have never seen something shed water this fast. I even had my wife come outside to see it. If you search for "cquartz beading" on YouTube, you will see a video that shows it .. not my car, but it looked exactly like the video.

loudog2
05-31-2011, 09:07 PM
The car looks great. I've always wondered how a sealant or something like opti-coat/cquartz would work on scratch shield paint. I mean you can do it, but the paint is in a constant state of movement. So there would be gaps in the protection. For instance, the manual says to leave in the sun and the scratches will fill in. Meaning heat will soften the paint and make it shift. main reason why a rotary doesn't work to well on it since it causes a lot of heat.

Scarelane
05-31-2011, 10:30 PM
That's a beautiful car for sure! Nice color! Looks great!

sohail99
05-31-2011, 11:25 PM
Great results!

Your method is quite simple and straight forward! I like that! :xyxthumbs:

Now the Infiniti really has a scratch shield!! :xyxthumbs:

sal329
06-01-2011, 03:29 PM
Great looking car really like the color. One thing about these coatings they are not slick like a good sealant or wax

James K
06-01-2011, 03:35 PM
Thanks for your input. I am still considering this for my daily driver.

Sunstealer
06-01-2011, 04:43 PM
The car looks great. I've always wondered how a sealant or something like opti-coat/cquartz would work on scratch shield paint. I mean you can do it, but the paint is in a constant state of movement. So there would be gaps in the protection. For instance, the manual says to leave in the sun and the scratches will fill in. Meaning heat will soften the paint and make it shift. main reason why a rotary doesn't work to well on it since it causes a lot of heat.

Dr. G at Optimum said that Opti-Coat would basically seal the scratch shield clear coat and it would no longer be able to fill in the scratches. I am not sure if CQuartz will have the same effect though since it uses different technology from what I have been able to gather.

pfix
06-01-2011, 05:59 PM
Only 10 minutes cure time before buffing off? I was under the impression that the product worked best if left on for 1 hour before buffing off.

kelley386
06-01-2011, 06:04 PM
I hope yours turns out better than mine regarding waterspots. I have spent 5 hours polishing off my C.Quartz and going back to my faithful Megs #20 polymer sealant. I had very bad spotting that took M205 with my PC to remove. So dont follow the directions that come with the CQ if that makes sense. About rinsing with just water i mean.

Sunstealer
06-01-2011, 06:21 PM
Only 10 minutes cure time before buffing off? I was under the impression that the product worked best if left on for 1 hour before buffing off.

Avi at CarPro said 10-15 minutes if the temperature is over 80 degrees, so that is what I went by. It was around 86 the day I sealed it. It didn't smear at all, it wiped off clean.

pfix
06-01-2011, 06:36 PM
Avi at CarPro said 10-15 minutes if the temperature is over 80 degrees, so that is what I went by. It was around 86 the day I sealed it. It didn't smear at all, it wiped off clean.

Good to know. After re-reading the instructions on my bag of CQ it does say to remove after 10 min. at 20-30 C. It then goes on to say to let dry for 1 hour at temps of 25 C. and avoid washing for 12 hours.

Is the suggested 1 hour dry time what is recommended before applying a second coat, or Reload?

Sunstealer
06-01-2011, 06:39 PM
I assume that is the cure time after it is buffed off. I left mine in the garage for a couple of hours before pulling it out. I only did one coat, so I am not sure about how long between coats. I plan on doing Reload after my first wash this weekend.