2008 Lexus IS250 lots of wetsanding - Premium Detailed - Garry Dean - Tampa, FL

[Garry Dean]

This is the detail from the Opti-Guard video review I did.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYyeF4IUi5Y]YouTube - ‪2008 Lexus IS250 2 step correction with interior, wetsanding, and Opti Guard‬‏[/video]

Thanks for watching!

[1MZsLastForever]

Excellent job on that Lex! That was quite a transformation on the front end of it. I like watching your videos. It's a whole lot different than looking at pics all day long.

[jamesn184]

That Lexus was in pretty bad shape
nice work on the wetsanding

[Rayaz]

Thanks for the video and showing your great work:dblthumb2:

[Garry Dean]

Hey, thanks guys! I got an email from the owner yesterday. He was thrilled at the outcome.

[TB88]

How the hell do people deal with those love bugs? How long after they hit your car do they start causing damage?

[Garry Dean]

How the hell do people deal with those love bugs? How long after they hit your car do they start causing damage?

The acid in the female and her egg sac begin to etch as soon as the acid reacts with oxygen. Real problems occur within 12 hours.

[Y2KSVT]

Awesome job, Garry! This just got me geared up for a detail I'm doing tomorrow on a 2010 Lexus with the same color combo.

I'm curious, as I haven't really done much wet sanding; did you went the sand paper before you started sanding, or just the paint? And what did you spray on the paint? ONR? I had always heard you should let the sand paper soak in water for X amount of hours before wet sanding. Is that just completely false, or no longer necessary with today's sand paper or clear coat finish?

Also, how did you go about polishing out the sanding marks and what products did you use on the car? I've seen you do a lot of great work with D151, but this was a 2-step, so I'm curious what you used, and which polisher(s).

Mark

[Garry Dean]

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Awesome job, Garry! This just got me geared up for a detail I'm doing tomorrow on a 2010 Lexus with the same color combo.

I'm curious, as I haven't really done much wet sanding; did you went the sand paper before you started sanding, or just the paint? And what did you spray on the paint? ONR? I had always heard you should let the sand paper soak in water for X amount of hours before wet sanding. Is that just completely false, or no longer necessary with today's sand paper or clear coat finish?

Also, how did you go about polishing out the sanding marks and what products did you use on the car? I've seen you do a lot of great work with D151, but this was a 2-step, so I'm curious what you used, and which polisher(s).

Mark

I soak my sand paper in an onr solution for around 30 min and I generally use onr as my sanding lube.

On this car I used M105 with Orange on my Griots Garage d/a and followed that with Menzerna Power Finish on white with my PCXP.

Just to be clear, I would never call D151 a one step. To me its called an all in one. A true one step from me would be something like Menzerna Power Finish with Orange. It cuts well and finishes great with Orange.

[Y2KSVT]

I understand that D151 is an All-In-One. This is a hobby for me, so I apologize if I don't know what the difference is between an All-In-One and what you would call a 1-step. Am I correct in thinking that a 1-step is going to be a polish that will finish down, LSP ready, and an All-In-One will basically do the same, but add protection at the same time?

That's pretty impressive that you were able to remove the sanding marks with a DA. With all of the reading I've done, I was under the impression you'd almost need a rotary. I have no intentions of wet sanding that Lexus tomorrow, I was more or less wanting to know so if I ever try some wet sanding on my personal vehicles.

Mark

[MaximumMD]

How long did it take you? Sounds like a long time with all that wet sanding.

[Garry Dean]

I understand that D151 is an All-In-One. This is a hobby for me, so I apologize if I don't know what the difference is between an All-In-One and what you would call a 1-step. Am I correct in thinking that a 1-step is going to be a polish that will finish down, LSP ready, and an All-In-One will basically do the same, but add protection at the same time?

That's pretty impressive that you were able to remove the sanding marks with a DA. With all of the reading I've done, I was under the impression you'd almost need a rotary. I have no intentions of wet sanding that Lexus tomorrow, I was more or less wanting to know so if I ever try some wet sanding on my personal vehicles.

Mark

No problem. I was just trying to explain my own thought process.

AIO type products generally do very little actual correction. They typically do more cleaning and filling than anything else. In my experience, the protection longevity of most AIOs is about 3 weeks. There are some exceptions, but that's a good estimate.

I have no issues whatsoever removing standing scratches with a d/a. In fact, id say I'm quite good at it. Not to toot my own horn.

Wetsanding is no easy task, but with practice is a useful tool in removing otherwise impossible to remove defects.

[Garry Dean]

How long did it take you? Sounds like a long time with all that wet sanding.

I had about 16 hours total in this one.

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

I've gotten good correction with D151...but i agree that it does need a coat of sealant afterwards as the wax left behind doesn't seem to last super long.

I did a RAV4 with D151 and came back a month later for a maintenance wash and was shocked because i saw a lot of swirls back on 1/2 the hood...the rest of the car was ok but i started to wonder if it was just fillers....BUT while i was there the owner came out with this "cool new emergency light he bought for real cheap"...it had a magnet bottom and he just slapped it on the hood and was dragging it around to show me how it was such a cool light...i looked at my sis and told her now i knew how the swirls came back lol.

Awesome job on the Lexus...i love that color on it. I've got a couple questions for you...for jobs that involve wet sanding like this, do you charge a price up front or do you give an hourly charge?

Also i was reading up on the opticoat....the 2.0 actually...saw it was quite expensive but was kind of curious about it as to how well it works and what you'd charge to apply it (if you don't mind my asking). It sure left a super high gloss...and i didn't know you could use it on windows and wheels also.


Sweet job man and i loved the vid!

[Garry Dean]

I've gotten good correction with D151...but i agree that it does need a coat of sealant afterwards as the wax left behind doesn't seem to last super long.

I did a RAV4 with D151 and came back a month later for a maintenance wash and was shocked because i saw a lot of swirls back on 1/2 the hood...the rest of the car was ok but i started to wonder if it was just fillers....BUT while i was there the owner came out with this "cool new emergency light he bought for real cheap"...it had a magnet bottom and he just slapped it on the hood and was dragging it around to show me how it was such a cool light...i looked at my sis and told her now i knew how the swirls came back lol.

Awesome job on the Lexus...i love that color on it. I've got a couple questions for you...for jobs that involve wet sanding like this, do you charge a price up front or do you give an hourly charge?

Also i was reading up on the opticoat....the 2.0 actually...saw it was quite expensive but was kind of curious about it as to how well it works and what you'd charge to apply it (if you don't mind my asking). It sure left a super high gloss...and i didn't know you could use it on windows and wheels also.


Sweet job man and i loved the vid!

Thank you!

Opti-Guard is designed to be applied on all exterior surfaces.

I do a walk around consult and discuss what my recommendations are and I give the client a flat rate for the whole job based on what I think its worth for me to do it.

The amount I charge for an Opti-Guard application varies from vehicle to vehicle. My price is mainly based on the size of the vehicle.