I ask for advice: Evaluate my detailing fluids & what I may need?

[onebad82z]

I want to be able to better detail my personal cars. I also perform most any auto body repair / paint refinishing task as a side income/hobby. I want to be best suited for most anything I come across. I feel I have a pretty good base but want your guidance on what I may be missing that you feel is a good addition. I may have things on my want list that are easily left off by using something I already have? Or maybe something on my want list falls right in between 2 things I already have… ideas like that. I left off spurs, pad brushes, buckets, grit guards, etc.

Mainly looking for advice on the fluid stuff.

1) I have:

Meguiars SwirlX, Ultimate Compound, M105 Ultra Cut Compound, M205 Ultra Finishing Polish, M02 Fine Cut Cleaner ( # 2 ), M03 Machine Glaze ( # 3 ), M09 Swirl Remover 2.0 ( # 9 ) and Deep Crystal Carnuba Car Wax

2) I want:

Meguiars M95 Diamond Cut Compound, D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream, M07 Show Car Glaze ( # 7 ), Speed Glaze ( # 80 ) & Dual Action Cleaner Polish ( # 83 ), ScratchX 2.0, PlastX and ColorX, Ultimate Quick Wax and NXT Tech Wax 2.0

Advise please!

[Mike Phillips]

I would get a Flex PE14 Rotary Buffer like the one our students had a chance to use in this class...

Pictures & Comments from May 14th, 2011 Saturday Detailing 101 (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-saturday-detailing-101/35791-pictures-comments-may-14th-2011-saturday-detailing-101-a.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1122/Ma14class072.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1122/Ma14class073.jpg


And then get the two backing plates in this thread and also the 7.5" wool cutting pad in this thread, also get a good selection of foam pads to go with your flexible backing plates.

Flexible Backing Plates for Rotary Buffers (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wool-foam-buffing-pads/33907-flexible-backing-plates-rotary-buffers.html)


Get a Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer, a Spur and a Pad Conditioning Brush

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1122/Ma14class068.jpg


For wool pads use a steel spur in addition to your pad washer...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass097.jpg


If you don't have a DA Polisher then get one, PC, GG or Megs...http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass139.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass130.jpg




Don't forget Safety Glasses...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass059.jpg


:)

[onebad82z]

I just purchased a Makita 9227 a few weeks ago ( and love it WAY more than my old air powered CP unit ) as well as have had a Porter Cable 7336 for years.

I have the W65 BP and w7000, 8000 and 9000 foam pads for the 9227. Also have a W5000 wool for it. I just ordered a backing plate ( Lake Country 5" ) for the 7336. Once I rebuild my budget a bit I want to get some polishing and finishing pads from LC as well, 5.5" in size for the 7336.

I do have a spur and also on order is a pad reconditioning brush.

A pad washer is on the list for sure but I want to get the main bases covered. Maybe if I add limited detailing to my side work I can save up and get one.

I have been reading for the last month since I found AGO and MOL. I almost wish I hadn't as I now realize how many bad habits I got from when I worked in a production body shop. I just painted a hood and this is why I started looking up how to REALLY sand and polish. Of course OCD took over and now I cannot look at any car without looking for bad body/paint work... and now I have to add all the detailing problems I have learned about.

Read MANY of your articles, thank you! Extremely informative and really improved my rotary skills alone. I used to get spatter EVERYWHERE. Learned the 10 @ 10 technique and I get practically zero now!

A more complete list of my supplies...


303 Aerospace Protectant

Armor All Window Cleaner

Armor All Tire Shine

Meguiars Quik Detailer, M34 Final Inspection

Meguiars Smooth Surface Clay Bar (G1001 = 3)

Meguiars SwirlX

Meguiars Ultimate Compound, M105 Ultra Cut Compound, M205 Ultra Finishing Polish

Meguiars M02 Fine Cut Cleaner ( # 2 ), M03 Machine Glaze ( # 3 ), M09 Swirl Remover 2.0 ( # 9 )

Meguiars Hot Rims All Wheel cleaner

Meguiars Deep Crystal Car Wash

Meguiars Deep Crystal Carnuba Car Wax

Meguiars Deep Pile Microfiber Wash Mitt & Water Magnet Drying Towel

Meguiars Supreme Shine Microfibers (2), WalMart "Detail" Microfibers (2), Eurow Shag Microfibers 660 GSM (8)

Makita 9227C Rotary Polisher

Meguiars W65 Rotary backing plate / W7000, 8000 and 9000 foam pads

Meguiars W5000 double sided wool pad ( w/ Buff & Shine Rotary Buffer Extension for 5/8" Spindle # 1400 )

Porter Cable 7336 Dual Action Polisher

Lake Country DA Hook & Loop 5" Flexible Backing Plate # LC-43-125DA

Buff & Shine Wool Pad Buffing Spur # 1600

The Edge Foam Pad Conditioning Brush

[tw33k2514]

You may want to add a sealant to your inventory. And also an APC product like Meguiars APC and APC+. Also, idk how many headlights you may see on cars you detail that are in need of repair, but it is a great upsell to customers. I use the Diamondite kit myself.

Also if you want to try a better wash than the deep crystal you may want to try Gold Class. Also consider a rinsless solution like ONR.

[onebad82z]

More excellent suggestions I had not thought of.

I would have gone GC but the local place I went to was out. Once I use up the DC I had planned on going with GC. Seems a clear winner in all of my research.

Thanks!!

[Mike Phillips]

I just purchased a Makita 9227 a few weeks ago


The Makita is also an excellent choice and you're typing to someone that fed himself for years using a Makita Rotary Buffer. In fact I used it so much over the years that I wore the rough, sand cast textured housing smooth like a piece of chrome and at the end of some days I would be cut open in two places on my hand from rubbing against the rough aluminum.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/MetalWornAwayAfterYearsOfBuffing.jpg





I have been reading for the last month since I found AGO and MOL.

Read MANY of your articles, thank you! Extremely informative and really improved my rotary skills alone. I used to get spatter EVERYWHERE. Learned the 10 @ 10 technique and I get practically zero now!



It's personally very rewarding to read things like what you wrote. I'm a long copy writer by nature and it's truly a curse. But I try to be very exact, thorough and detailed even though there are some that would rather I posted one-liners...

So thank you for the kind words... you made my day!




Meguiars Ultimate Compound, M105 Ultra Cut Compound, M205 Ultra Finishing Polish

Meguiars M02 Fine Cut Cleaner ( # 2 ), M03 Machine Glaze ( # 3 ), M09 Swirl Remover 2.0 ( # 9 )



Use up the #2 and #9 and then switch over to Menzerna Polishes you'll love them. Wolfgang TSR and FG are Menzerna products and you get the same great results.

Our last two classes focused on using Wolfgang and Pinnacle and even guys I know that have been buffing with Megs and 3M for years were impressed by how well both these line of products worked and finished out...

Meguiar's makes good products but there are other good options also... Optimum Hyper Compound and Polish, Mother's Professional Line is actually pretty good...

At this time, M105 is the compound to beat but I know from testing others are catching up as I've played with the lab samples...




Meguiars W65 Rotary backing plate / W7000, 8000 and 9000 foam pads


If you like Megs foam pads switch over the 7" Softbuff pads, better overall size for most cars...




Meguiars W5000 double sided wool pad ( w/ Buff & Shine Rotary Buffer Extension for 5/8" Spindle # 1400 )


I know guys that love the doubles side wool pads and guys that hate them I'm in the first camp, they work great for heavy cutting, same for the Optimum double sided wool pad and the optimum double sided foam pads.




Porter Cable 7336 Dual Action Polisher


Personally buffed out thousands of cars using first gen PC's and they get the job done but sometime down the road upgrade to either the newer XP version or the GG DA Polisher.

I like the build quality of the PC better than the GG but the GG for all practical purposes is a safe version of a rotary buffer because using common sense pressure you cannot stop the pad from rotating.

Read the above carefully as here's what that means...

If you cannot stop the pad from rotating... it's basically working like a rotary buffer... BUT if needed... you can stop the pad from rotating or a better way to say that is in a risk situation, the pad can be stopped.

It's not as powerful as a rotary buffer especially when working on curved panels, no where near as efficient, but for flat work... it's got the power.




Buff & Shine Wool Pad Buffing Spur # 1600

The Edge Foam Pad Conditioning Brush


Both are essential tools if you do a lot of buffing with a rotary buffer. The goal with your steel spur is to use it enough to get it to the point where it no longer stains your wool fibers grayish as you use it. I have two very old spurs that are "seasoned" and you couldn't pry them out of my cold, dead fingers...


:)

[onebad82z]

The Makita is also an excellent choice and you're typing to someone that fed himself for years using a Makita Rotary Buffer. In fact I used it so much over the years that I wore the rough, sand cast textured housing smooth like a piece of chrome and at the end of some days I would be cut open in two places on my hand from rubbing against the rough aluminum.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/MetalWornAwayAfterYearsOfBuffing.jpg

That unit has some miles huh...


It's personally very rewarding to read things like what you wrote. I'm a long copy writer by nature and it's truly a curse. But I try to be very exact, thorough and detailed even though there are some that would rather I posted one-liners...

So thank you for the kind words... you made my day!

Hey, I am sure I speak for more than a few. Your articles are very well detailed, to the point, and even without pictures easily understood. Hard to accomplish especially when explaining technique. Just wish I was closer to be able to participate in one of your classes.


Use up the #2 and #9 and then switch over to Menzerna Polishes you'll love them. Wolfgang TSR and FG are Menzerna products and you get the same great results.

Our last two classes focused on using Wolfgang and Pinnacle and even guys I know that have been buffing with Megs and 3M for years were impressed by how well both these line of products worked and finished out...

Meguiar's makes good products but there are other good options also... Optimum Hyper Compound and Polish, Mother's Professional Line is actually pretty good...

At this time, M105 is the compound to beat but I know from testing others are catching up as I've played with the lab samples...

I am open to any product. I have used 3M in the past with ehh results. Wax shop with much the same. Meguiars DAT line, again much the same although typically with much better gloss so I have stuck with Megs for that reason. Now I also will readily admit I was using bad technique (if any at all) so it is all really relevant to user error more than anything. I was turned on to the 105/205 combo through MOL and some of your old articles. I love it but would like to be able to finish down hologram free with a rotary. Hard with 205.


If you like Megs foam pads switch over the 7" Softbuff pads, better overall size for most cars...


I know guys that love the doubles side wool pads and guys that hate them I'm in the first camp, they work great for heavy cutting, same for the Optimum double sided wool pad and the optimum double sided foam pads.

I was given the pads new in bags so I just had to get the backing plate. But I do want to get the 2.0 setup.

The past buff was my first experience with wool. I was scared away back when I worked at the shop as the head painter made wool out to be the devils skin and would damage anything. But over the years I have always had a hard time buffing sand scratches out of fresh paint with foam. I tried the M105/w5000 combo and was blown away. It was almost too easy.



Personally buffed out thousands of cars using first gen PC's and they get the job done but sometime down the road upgrade to either the newer XP version or the GG DA Polisher.

I like the build quality of the PC better than the GG but the GG for all practical purposes is a safe version of a rotary buffer because using common sense pressure you cannot stop the pad from rotating.

Again, this is part of a long term plan for me. For now I wanted to learn with my older 7336. I have been using it for years as a sanding DA for body work.


Read the above carefully as here's what that means...

If you cannot stop the pad from rotating... it's basically working like a rotary buffer... BUT if needed... you can stop the pad from rotating or a better way to say that is in a risk situation, the pad can be stopped.

It's not as powerful as a rotary buffer especially when working on curved panels, no where near as efficient, but for flat work... it's got the power.

Understood fully!



Both are essential tools if you do a lot of buffing with a rotary buffer. The goal with your steel spur is to use it enough to get it to the point where it no longer stains your wool fibers grayish as you use it. I have two very old spurs that are "seasoned" and you couldn't pry them out of my cold, dead fingers...



Noticed that and it upset me. Nice white pad turned gray quickly. Didn't even think of the spur… duh!