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View Full Version : da mf system thoughts and pad priming



carsmetic
05-16-2011, 08:13 PM
After using the new da mf system for about 20 pretty bad cars now I am very impressed with the cutting part of the system, little to no dust, easy clean up, no gumming and effective resutls. There is a learning curve to both the 300 and 301. I blew out a couple pads quickly and have done 6 or more cars with the same pad. As mentioned in other threads, speed and pressure are important as well as correct amount of product. The mf pads dont like a lot of speed or pressure, and the results don't improve with them.
Several things will wear out the pads in the center,
cleaning to harshly with a brush, just use air for the 300
speed
pressure

I had a problem with a bit of dullness after the finish process. I went back and watched that part of the video and found I was using too much speed and pressure trying to get the gloss. After following the suggested use in the video things improved. However I was still getting better results using mg66 quick detailer and a foam polish pad for the finish step. I also get better results using 301 with a foam pad, 301 is great to work with so I have experimented on different ways to use it.

Friday I compared using mg66 on a foam pad and a mf pad. At first the mf seemed to have more gloss and more defect removal. So I continued using that. About 1/3 of the way through the car I noticed bad hazing, marring, dullness. Call it what you want. The fibers had stiffened and it was cutting instead of polishing. I was only using air to clean the pad, mistake, I imagine a brush would have helped here. Anyway it has me wondering if this is what was causing the lack of gloss in the normal application of 301 with an mf pad. Once the fibers get loaded with product, is air cleaning enough for 301? seems the fibers need to be fluffed to create the gloss. The mf pads have a lot of cutting power.

I have no problem getting an excellent looking car using the 300/mf pad and a foam pad with mg66 or 301 for the finish. Just my observations so far. I absolutely love the system though.

As for pad priming. Until recently reading about it's importance in the forums I had not done it. Now it seems crazy not to. Now I use a plastic spreader, like for bondo to prime the pad. You can work product around easily. I also use it with some products that build up in the center of the pad early in the pads life. You can just drag the build up out of the center. If the buildup is old than yes you need to remove it. Anyway just sharing some thoughts here.

Perfections
05-16-2011, 09:22 PM
First thanks for posting your thoughts, second which da are you using and speed, on the cutting pad, if you don't mind me asking. Also how fast do you work around the car, as in here's my process, apply product to pad, make 4-5 passes 2x2 ft sq, wipe of d300, blow pad off, apply more product, none stop and by the time I make it half way through a car my pad is smoking, I've melted a Meg's backing plate, melted the backs of pads all kinds of fun stuff, so just wondering how your process compares as I've not gotten 6 cars out of a single pad doing full paint corrections.

James K
05-16-2011, 09:34 PM
Perfections,

The only thing I can guess is that you use to much speed and pressure. I have done over a dozen cars using the same pad. I use a PC and do not go over speed 5. Never had a problem with extreme heat build up. I have two pads and I will occasionally use two pads per car, but not often.

carsmetic
05-16-2011, 09:51 PM
The amount of time it takes depends solely on the condition of the paint and the desired defect removal. most of my cars are in a moderate volume situation for a used car lot. avg car 1-2 hours max.
I use a groits 6" and will do a panel at a time on speed 4, cleaning after a panel usually. I have had heat buildup at first. It is not necessary and does not improve results. Patience improves results :(

On the finish step with a foam pad I will go closer to speed 5. with an mf pad speed 3 and quick passes. This has got me the best results with 301 and mf.

since going to this system and using mg66 with a foam polish pad for the one step cars we now have swirl free, great looking cars and the gloss is lasting way longer than the stuff we were using from a local distributor.

I put on the recommended backing plate and the heat build up under pressure was greatly improved. however the sharpness of the edge will dig into some foam pads.
I just ordered the soft buff 2.0 to try with the da and rotary. hope we are as happy with those as we are with the rest of the meguiars stuff we switched too.

Perfections
05-16-2011, 10:05 PM
Perfections,

The only thing I can guess is that you use to much speed and pressure. I have done over a dozen cars using the same pad. I use a PC and do not go over speed 5. Never had a problem with extreme heat build up. I have two pads and I will occasionally use two pads per car, but not often.

I wouldve guessed pressure myself, but I'm just barley guiding my GG, using speed 3.5-4, I might try the pc out to see how this compares

bmwgeek
05-17-2011, 12:24 AM
Wow, only 1-2 hours to do both compounding and finishing?

Rei86
05-17-2011, 01:47 AM
Thanks for your review, I've been meaning to use this on my soft paint Toyota but I've been really lazy. Its good to see they are still getting rave reviews...but the pads.